THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


A  MANUAL 

OF 

THE  PROCESSES  OF  WINDING. 
WARPING  AND  QUILLING 

of  Silk  and  Other  Various  Yarns 
from  the  Skein  to  the  Loom 


BY 

SAMUEL  KLINE 


FIRST  EDITION 


NEW  YORK: 

JOHN  WILEY  &  SONS,   INC. 

LONDON:  CHAPMAN  &  HALL,  LIMITED 
1918 


COPYRIGHT,  1917 

BY 
SAMUEL  KLINE 


PRESS  OF 

BRAUNWORTH  *  CO. 

BOOK  MANUFACTURER* 

BROOKLYN,   N.  Y. 


K'i 


PREFACE 


THE  purpose  of  this  work  is  to  place  at  the  disposal  of  the 
beginner,  in  the  mill,  a  practical  handbook  on  the  processes  of 
Warping,  Winding,  Doubling  and  Quilling  of  silk  yarns,  and  to 
put  before  the  Owners,  Managers,  Foremen,  and  Operatives  of 
Silk  Mills,  the  fruits  of  an  experience  in  these  departments  stretch- 
ing over  a  space  of  many  years.  It  is  the  earnest  hope  of  the 
writer  that  this  manual  will  prove  to  be  of  special  value  in  this 
field,  inasmuch  as  no  attempt  has  ever  before  been  made,  in  this 
country,  to  bring  out  a  reference  book  embracing  such  detailed 
statements  of  the  technique  of  these  branches  of  textile  manu- 
facture. 

The  matter  in  this  book  is  based  upon  a  long  and  practical 
mill  experience,  supplemented  by  much  special  study,  and  every 
operation  detailed  herein  has  been  actually  done  by  the  writer 
personally.  This  practical  personal  experience  is  here  put  before 
the  reader  to  help  him  in  dealing  with  the  many  troublesome 
details  of  his  daily  work. 

The  instructive  value  of  these  pages  can  best  be  realized  by 
following  the  author  from  cover  to  cover,  and  this,  if  faithfully 
done,  will  afford  to  the  textile  worker  those  little,  but  invaluable, 
helps  which  otherwise  could  only  be  obtained  by  an  actual  experi- 
ence of  many  years. 

In  these  days  of  competition,  the  possessor  of  practical  knowl- 
edge has  the  advantage,  and  it  is  from  the  ranks  of  the  practical 
men  that  foremen  and  managers  are  invariably  taken,  which  posi- 
tions are  a  long  step  towards  ultimate  mill  ownership. 

The  textile  industry,  outside  of  silk  manufacturing,  is  rich  in 
the  matter  of  well-written  and  carefully-prepared  technical  liter- 
ature, but,  in  many  of  these  works,  the  subject  is  approached 
from  a  far  too  general  viewpoint,  though  there  are  some  books 

iii 


iv  PREFACE 

which  deal  carefully  and  well  with  special  subjects.  The  tech- 
nique of  Winding,  Warping,  Doubling  and  Quilling  is,  however, 
as  far  as  can  be  ascertained,  a  subject  on  which  little  or  nothing 
has  been  written  of  such  a  detailed  character  as  would  be  of 
practical  service  to  the  mill  operative. 

While  realizing  that  there  must  be  many  shortcomings  and 
omissions  in  such  a  work,  the  writer,  in  placing  it  before  the  public, 
does  so  in  the  full  confidence  that  the  detailed  and  comprehensive 
instructions  set  forth  will  be  of  real  value  to  all  interested  in  the 
subject. 

He  takes  pleasure  in  expressing  his  sincere  thanks  to  those 
friends  in  the  trade  who  have  assisted  in  the  compilation  of  the 
book,  and  particularly  to  Mr.  James  Chittick,  of  New  York, 
Consulting  Textile  Specialist,  who  has  carefully  revised  the 
matter  contained  herein,  and  made  many  valuable  suggestions 
and  additions. 

SAMUEL  KLINE. 

96  PROSPECT  STREET, 
JERSEY  CITY,  N.  J. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I — AT  i  mrvnT  *  T  c.     *  vrr>    T'TTPTP    C\  A  ^ 1 


ERRATUM 

Page  29,  15th  line.    For 

160-:- 10  inches  =  5  ends  and  10  overs 
Read 

160  -f-  30  dents  =  5  ends  and  10  overs 


the  Elevation  Irons.  Banking,  Tying  Up  and  Reeding  a  Plain 
or  One-colored  Warp.  Reeding  the  Cross  Reed.  To  Reed  the 
Space  Reed.  How  to  Ascertain  the  Starting  Mark  of  the  First 
Section.  Preparing  the  First  Section  to  Wind  on  the  Reel. 
To  Set  the  Measuring  Dial.  Power-driving  Devices.  Wind- 
ing the  First  Section  on  the  Reel.  The  Second  Section  of  the 
Warp.  Beaming  Warps.  To  Make  Disposition  Warps,  Fancy 
Stripes,  and  Ombre's,  on  the  Horizontal  Machine  without  Using 
Swiss  Motion.  Proper  Number  of  Bobbins  to  Wind  for  a  Warp. 
Making  Warps  on  the  Horizontal,  or  All-Swiss  Motion  Machine. 
The  Advantage  of  the  Horizontal  Plain-warping  Machine 
over  the  Horizontal  Swiss  Motion  Machine.  Some  of  the 
Advantages  Gained  on  the  Horizontal  with  the  Swiss  Motion 
Attachment.  Valuable  Points  in  Warping  Operations.  Dis- 
position Warps.  Unfinished  Sections.  Lost  Ends  in  the 
Warp.  The  Matter  of  Available  Yarns.  The  Creel.  The 
Difference  between  a  Creel  Containing  a  Full  Set  of  Full  Bob- 
bins, and  One  Containing  Partly  Full  Bobbins.  The  Brake 
Strap.  The  Guard  String.  Bobbins  that  Spin  off  the  Pins. 
New  Warp  Orders.  Different  Space  Reeding.  The  Construc- 
tion of  Warps  Containing  More  Ends  in  Pattern  than  Pins  on 


iv  PREFACE 

which  deal  carefully  and  well  with  special  subjects.  The  tech- 
nique of  Winding,  Warping,  Doubling  and  Quilling  is,  however, 
as  far  as  can  be  ascertained,  a  subject  on  which  little  or  nothing 
has  been  written  of  such  a  detailed  character  as  would  be  of 
practical  service  to  the  mill  operative. 

While  realizing  that  there  must  be  many  shortcomings  and 
omissions  in  such  a  work,  the  writer,  in  placing  it  before  the  public, 
does  so  in  the  full  confidence  that  the  detailed  and  comprehensive 
instructions  set  forth  will  be  of  real  value  to  all  interested  in  the 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  MATERIALS  AND  THEIR  CARE 1 

The  Treatment  of  the  Different  Materials  and  their  Care. 

II.  WINDING  PROCESSES 3 

Winding  Machinery.  Winding  Machine  Space.  Winder  Swifts. 
Swift  Braces.  Iron  Tension  Weights.  Spindles.  Guiders. 
Power  and  Speed  for  Winding  Machine.  Winding  in  General. 
Fastening  or  Securing  the  End  on  a  Wound  Bobbin.  Different 
Kinds  of  Knots.  Making  and  Tying  Knots.  Winding  Coarse 
Material.  Mixing  in  the  Winding  Operation.  Careless  Wind- 
ing Operatives.  Winding  Bobbin  Stopper  Device.  Tracing  the 
Workmanship  of  the  Operatives.  Artificial  Silks. 

III.  WARPING  PROCESSES. 21 

Various  Warping  Systems.  Warping  Machines.  How  to  Adjust 
the  Elevation  Irons.  Banking,  Tying  Up  and  Reeding  a  Plain 
or  One-colored  Warp.  Reeding  the  Cross  Reed.  To  Reed  the 
Space  Reed.  How  to  Ascertain  the  Starting  Mark  of  the  First 
Section.  Preparing  the  First  Section  to  Wind  on  the  Reel. 
To  Set  the  Measuring  Dial.  Power-driving  Devices.  Wind- 
ing the  First  Section  on  the  Reel.  The  Second  Section  of  the 
Warp.  Beaming  Warps.  To  Make  Disposition  Warps,  Fancy 
Stripes,  and  Ombre's,  on  the  Horizontal  Machine  without  Using 
Swiss  Motion.  Proper  Number  of  Bobbins  to  Wind  for  a  Warp. 
Making  Warps  on  the  Horizontal,  or  All-Swiss  Motion  Machine. 
The  Advantage  of  the  Horizontal  Plain-warping  Machine 
over  the  Horizontal  Swiss  Motion  Machine.  Some  of  the 
Advantages  Gained  on  the  Horizontal  with  the  Swiss  Motion 
Attachment.  Valuable  Points  in  Warping  Operations.  Dis- 
position Warps.  Unfinished  Sections.  Lost  Ends  in  the 
Warp.  The  Matter  of  Available  Yarns.  The  Creel.  The 
Difference  between  a  Creel  Containing  a  Full  Set  of  Full  Bob- 
bins, and  One  Containing  Partly  Full  Bobbins.  The  Brake 
Strap.  The  Guard  String.  Bobbins  that  Spin  off  the  Pins. 
New  Warp  Orders.  Different  Space  Reeding.  The  Construc- 
tion of  Warps  Containing  More  Ends  in  Pattern  than  Pins  on 


vi  CONTENTS 

CHAPTEB  PAGE 

the  Creel.  Hazardous  Figuring.  Increased  Length  of  Warps, 
Due  to  Increased  Circumference.  Careless  Methods.  Memo- 
randum Book.  The  Quality  and  Quantity  of  Beaming  Paper. 
The  Duties  of  the  Order  Clerk.  Avoidable  Mistakes.  Short 
and  Long  Sections  in  Horizontal  Warping.  The  Matter  of 
Waste  on  Bobbins.  Treadle  Strain.  Inexperienced  Operatives. 
Sample  Warps  Made  on  the  Horizontal  Machine.  Ombre" 
Warps.  The  Handling  of  Swiss  Warping  Machines.  The 
Beaming  Machine.  Warping  with  a  Low  Grade  of  Silk. 
Picking  the  Warp.  Damaged  Warping  Reeds.  Importance  of 
the  Lease.  Treatment  of  White  Yarns.  Careless  Warper 
Operatives.  Making  Use  of  Old  Yarn  Lots  in  Warps.  Selvages, 
Edges,  or  Binders.  Power  and  Speeds  for  Winding,  Warping, 
Beaming  and  Quilling  Machines.  Makeshifts  for  the  Hori- 
zontal Warping  Machine.  Necessary  Tools  for  Warping. 

IV.  QUILLING  PROCESSES 76 

Quilling.  How  Quilling  is  Accomplished.  Quilling  and  Filling 
Supply  Department.  Quill  Board  Fillers.  Process  of  Dou- 
bling Materials. 

V.  MISCELLANEOUS  MATTERS 82 

Supply  of  Good  Bobbins  Advantageous.  Employing  Help.  Dis- 
missing Help  Temporarily.  Complaints.  Waste  of  Materials. 
Light.  To  Regulate  Wages.  Arranging  Machinery.  Plan 
for  Machinery  Floor  Space.  Repairs.  Supplies  Needed. 
Tracing  Oil  Spots.  Luncheon.  Sweeping.  Table  of  Bobbin 
Weights.  Book  Systems.  Yard  and  Meter  Measure.  Dining, 
Dressing,  and  Emergency  Rooms.  Changing  One's  Position. 

VI.  REMINDERS,  DUTIES  AND  RULES ; 99 

A  Few  Reminders  for  Inventory.  Important  Duties  of  a  Foreman. 
Rules  and  Regulations.  The  Rules. 

VII.  DEFECTS  AND  THEIR  CAUSES 106 

Defective  Fabrics.  Raw  Silk  and  Silk-throwing  Defects.  Other 
Yarn-spinning  Defects.  Dyeing  Dyefects.  Skein  and  Quill- 
winding  Defects.  Warping  Defects.  Loom  and  Weaving 
Defects.  Miscellaneous  Defects.  Efficient  Mill  Administra- 
tion. 

GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 112 

INDEX  131 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


1.  Variable  Speed  Winder 4 

2.  Double-deck  Winding  Machine 5 

3.  Fibre  Swift  Brace 7 

4.  1.  Skein  parting  and  dressing  pole.     2.  Roll,  and  skein,  of  yarn. 

3.  Scale  for  weighing  yarn.    4.  Bundle  of  dyed  silk  yarn.    5.  Mill 
basket,  with  empty  bobbins.    6.  Fibre  mill  box  with  wound  bobbins      9 

5.  Different  Kinds  of  Knots,  Open  and  Closed 16 

6.  Swiss  Sectional  Warping  Frame,  and  Creel 22 

7.  Horiontal  Warper  with  Warp  and  eight-yard  reel.     1.  Tread  pedal. 

2.  Carriage,  and  space  reed.    3.  Stave.    4.  Cross  reed.     5.  Beam- 
ing drive  device 23 

8.  Section  Space  Reed.    Single-cross  Reed.    Double-cross  Reed.  Triple- 

cross  Reed 30 

9.  Horizontal  Warper  with  Swiss  Attachment  and  Elevation  Irons 36 

10.  Empty  Horizontal  Warper  (without  Swiss  Attachment) 43 

11.  Four-hundred-pin  Bobbin  Creel 48 

12.  Swiss  Beaming,  Machine  and  Empty  Reel 63 

13.  1.  A  warp  ready  for  picking,  hi  a  power  picking  frame.    2.  Finished 

warps,  placed  in  an  iron  warp-rack 66 

14.  1.  Edge  Warping    Machine  and  Anchor   Bobbins.     2.  Hand-drive 

Edge  Take-off  Machine 71 

15.  1.  Flanged  warp  beam,  with  rod  and  apron.     2.  Warp  beam,  with 

beam  heads,  rod  and  apron.     3.  Quill  board  with  wound  quills. 

4.  Quill  board,  empty.     5.  Fibre  box  and  full  quills.    6.  Fibre 
swift    brace.     7.  Endless     cotton-cord    swift     braces.    8.  Three 
crossing    rods.     9.  Reeding  hook.     10.  Cross-reed  holder  hook. 
11.  Eye  shade.     12.  Winder  swift  tension  weights.     13.  Section 
spacing  compass.     14.  Section  hook  for  sample  warps.     15.  Black; 
and  white,  strips  for  reed  background.    16.  Bone  pick.    17.  Doubler 
flyer  guide.     18.  Winder  spindle  with  wooden  head.     19.  Doubler 
spindle    for    take-up  bobbin.     20.  Quiller    spindle  with  grooved 
head.     21.  Iron  bracket  device  for  stopping  bobbins  from  winding 
too  full 74 

16.  High-speed,  Underdrive  Quiller 76 

17.  Doubling  Machine 80 

18.  Heavy  Fancy  Shaft  Harness  Loom 91 

19.  Jacquard  Silk  Loom  with  Motor  Drive « 92 

20.  Skein  Reel  with  Single  Fly 93 

vii 


WINDING,  WARPING  AND  QUILLING  SILK 


CHAPTER  I 
MATERIALS  AND  THEIR  CARE 

The  Treatment  of  the  Different  Materials  and  their  Care 

WHEN  materials  are  received  by  the  various  departments  in 
the  mill,  they  should  be  immediately  checked  up  and  placed  in  a 
stockroom,  or  other  suitable  place  that  is  properly  equipped  with 
closets,  shelves  and  drawers,  which  should  be  plainly  numbered. 
Good  light  is  essential,  but  all  materials  should  be  covered  and 
protected  from  the  light  when  not  actually  in  use.  A  permanent 
place  should  be  assigned  for  each  lot,  avoiding  as  much  as  possible 
the  crowding  together  of  lots  that  are  similar  in  color,  size  or 
texture. 

A  label,  or  stock  ticket,  containing  detailed  information, 
which  varies  in  different  mills,  should  be  attached  to  a  bundle  of 
each  lot  received.  This  is  known  as  the  "  original  ticket,"  and 
should  contain  the  following  items : 


STOCK  TICKET 

Dye  Lot  Number 

Date  Sent  to  Dyer 

How  Dyed  (pure,  weighted,  fast,  etc.) 

Weight  Sent  to  Dyer 

Number  of  Bundles 

Number  of  Skeins 

Size  of  the  Yarn 

Weight  Returned  from  Dyer 

Date  Returned  from  Dyer 


2  MATERIALS  AND  THEIR  CARE 

Each  of  the  other  bundles  in  the  lot  should  have  a  smaller 
ticket  attached,  which  contains  the  lot  number,  size  and  color. 
The  original  should  not  be  removed  from  the  lot  until  it  is  entirely 
consumed. 

It  is  preferable  to  use  different  colored  tickets  for  the  various 
materials,  as  it  is  then  easier  to  distinguish  them  and  lessens  the 
liability  of  making  costly  mistakes. 

Each  lot  should  be  weighed  when  received,  and  the  rolls  and 
skeins  counted.  After  comparison  with  the  lot  ticket,  and  being 
found  to  be  correct,  these  items,  and  all  other  details,  should  be 
recorded  in  a  loose-leaf  book  or  card  index,  kept  for  this  particular 
purpose,  the  lot  passed  upon  by  the  person  in  charge,  and  placed 
in  its  allotted  shelf  or  closet,  properly  covered,  and  with  ticket 
facing  outward. 


CHAPTER  II 
WINDING  PROCESSES 

Winding  Machinery 

THE  winding  machine  is  for  winding  skeins  of  yarn  onto  bob- 
bins. There  are  several  different  patterns  of  winding  machines, 
which  equipment  is  usually  made  to  order  to  suit  the  require- 
ments of  the  work  in  the  mill. 

Some  machines  are  built  of  both  wood  and  iron  while  others 
are  constructed  entirely  of  iron,  with  the  exception  of  the  knee- 
board,  guider  rail,  and  bobbin  shelf. 

Winding  machines  can  be  made  of  any  size  and  length  and 
possess  any  number  of  spindles,  so  as  to  bring  about  desirable 
economy  of  floor  space. 

The  standard  spindle  is  6  inches  long,  but  the  length  may  vary 
according  to  the  pattern  of  the  machine. 

The  ordinary  winding  machine  possesses  a  traverse  motion 
that  spreads  the  material  evenly  and  uniformly  from  side  to  side 
of  the  bobbin  as  it  unwinds  from  the  skein. 

A  double  number  of  spindles  can  be  added  to  the  machine  by 
making  it  double-decked,  with  two  rows  of  swifts  on  a  side,  one 
above,  the  other  below. 

In  using  a  double-decked  winder,  there  is  a  saving  of  one-half 
the  amount  of  floor  space,  with  a  saving  in  the  corresponding 
expenditures  for  heating,  lighting,  attendance  and  power  required. 
The  operative  can  attend  to  twice  the  number  of  spindles  in  a 
given  space.  As  the  cost  per  spindle  of  a  double-decked  machine 
is  less,  there  is  a  further  saving  of  interest  and  depreciation  on  the. 
machines  themselves,  and  also  the  saving  of  the  rental,  etc.,  for 
the  space  occupied. 

There  are,  however,  several  disadvantages  to  a  double-decked 
machine,  as,  for  instance: 

3 


4  WINDING  PROCESSES 

1.  Operatives  seldom  care  to  work  on  them. 

2.  Short    operatives    have   a    certain    disadvantage,    as   the 
reaching  and  eye-strain  is  often  tiresome. 

3.  On  the  upper  deck,  the  skeins  run  the  reverse  to  those  in 
the  lower  row,  which  makes  it  a  difficult  task  to  find  the  lost  ends. 

4.  The  ends  sticking  in  the  skein  are  the  cause  of  spindles  of 
the  upper  deck  being  pulled  from  their  bearings. 


FIG.  1.— Variable  Speed  Winder. 

5.  The  broken  ends  of  the  skeins  from  the  upper  deck  are  often 
wound  on  the  bobbins  of  the  lower  deck. 

6.  Waste  falls  more  easily  from  the  upper  deck  onto  the  lower 
bobbins,  causing  poor  work,  and  damages  wound  materials. 

7.  The  tension  of  the  skeins  on  the  upper  deck  is  not  as  uni- 
form as  on  the  lower  deck. 

My  opinion  is  that  the  disadvantages  materially  outweigh 
the  advantages. 

Winding  Machine  Space 

The  floor  space  required  for  a  winding  machine  depends  largely 
upon  the  make  of  the  machine  used  and  the  size  of  the  swifts,  as 


WINDER  SWIFTS  5 

the  kneeboards  must  be  extended  to  fit  the  swifts.  The  aisles 
between  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  machines  should  measure  at 
least  2  feet,  and  2  feet  6  inches  is  preferable. 


FIG.  2. — Double-deck  Winding  Machine. 

Winder  Swifts 

There  are  several  patterns  of  swifts  made  and  supplied  with  the 
machines,  those  most  commonly  used  being  made  of  hard  or  soft 
wood  according  to  the  usage  to  which  they  are  to  be  put. 

The  size  swifts  used  for  wool,  and  raw  or  hard-silk  winding,  are 
larger  than  those  used  for  organzine,  tram  or  cotton.  It  may  be 
here  explained  that  hard  silk  is  raw,  or  thrown,  silk  from  which 
the  natural  gum  has  not  been  removed. 

Soft  silk  is  silk  from  which  the  gum  has  been  boiled  out. 

The  standard  swift  is  made  with  twelve  spokes,  six  spokes  in 


6  WINDING  PROCESSES 

each  side  of  a  wooden  hub.  The  smallest  and  lightest  swift  is 
used  for  soft  silk  and  artificial  silk  and  measures  17  inches  across. 
The  cotton  swift  measures  19  inches  across,  and  that  for  raw  or 
hard  silk,  and  wool,  25  inches  across. 

The  hub  of  the  swift  has  a  pin  axle  on  each  side,  to  hold  it  in 
the  bearings  and  brackets  of  the  winding  machine.  The  pin 
causes  the  swift  to  revolve  readily  and  smoothly  and  balance  easily. 

Swift  Braces 

Braces  are  usually  made  of  cotton  braid  or  banding,  and  the 
best  are  endless  and  spliced  so  that  they  are  entirely  free  from 
knots.  These  will  give  better  service  than  knotted  braces  and 
are  usually  stronger  and  cleaner  and  do  not  tear  the  ends,  as  is 
often  the  case  when  the  knotted  brace  is  used. 

The  endless  brace  does  not  stretch  as  readily,  and  very  often 
can  be  washed  and  used  over  again.  While  these  are  the  swift 
braces  most  commonly  used,  there  are  also  braces  fashioned  of 
metal,  fibre  and  rubber. 

Good  swift  braces  are  of  the  first  importance  if  the  best 
winding  results  are  to  be  had.  The  cotton-banding  swift  braces 
are  serviceable  when  new,  but  soon  become  slack  at  one  side.  To 
tighten  them,  the  operative  will  give  a  turn  round  the  spoke 
which  pulls  the  spoke  out  of  shape,  and  many  times  breaks  it,  and, 
in  this  way  it  does  not  take  long  for  many  of  the  swifts  in  a  depart- 
ment to  get  into  bad  shape,  with  a  resultant  increase  of  waste 
and  loss  of  product.  After  use  on  dark  colors,  such  braces  should 
not  be  used  for  light  colors  without  washing,  as  they  are  easily 
soiled  and  become  sticky  from  handling.  They  also  entangle 

the  loose  ends,  and  waste  catches  in  them. 

-  •  •.(*.-,.„.    >'*? 

The  braces  made  of  a  single  strand  of  cotton  banding  with 
loops  made  by  making  an  eye  splice  at  each  end  of  the  band,  are 
largely  used.  They  slacken  in  time,  and  are  tightened,  or  short- 
ened, by  twisting,  but,  to  give  them  firmness,  a  considerable  strain 
must  be  put  upon  the  sticks  themselves.  These  also  get  dirty 
and  sticky. 

Swifts  made  of  plaited  wire,  and  wire  in  other  forms,  are  not 
infrequently  used,  but  are,  in  a  degree,  subject  to  the  same  dif- 
ficulties as  cotton  braces. 


IRON  TENSION  WEIGHTS  7 

After  long  experiment,  I  succeeded  in  developing  the  fibre 
brace,  of  which  a  picture  is  presented  herewith.  These  are  made 
of  very  high  grade  fibre  board,  about  ^  inch  in  thickness,  and 
shaped  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  They  are  very  rigid,  and 
extremely  durable.  Since  developing  this  brace,  I  have  made 
many  thousands  of  them  and  have  used  them  for  a  number  of 
years,  and  consider  them  immensely  superior  to  other  swift 
braces  for  the  following  reasons : 

1.  They  can  be  used  on  all  sizes  of  swifts  in  which  are  round- 
tapered  spokes  set  slanting  out  from  the  hub,  as  the  spring  of  the 
spokes  will  hold  the  braces  tightly,  and  in  place,  though  they  can 
be  slid  up  and  down  freely,  and  they  hold  the  skein  in  a  true  and 
good  circle.     Light,  strong,  and  durable,  they  will  not  wear  out, 
and  do  not  soil  and  rust  as  do  wire  braces. 

2.  They  increase  the  winding  output. 

3.  Considerably  less  waste  is  made. 

4.  They  strengthen  and  support  the  spokes  of  the  swift,  pre- 
venting them  from  getting  loose  in  the  hub. 

5.  They  keep  the  skeins  spread  flat,  straight  and  smooth,  and 
in  the  same  shape  as  when  reeled. 

6.  In  the  long  run  the  cost  is  distinctly  less,  for  though  the 
initial  cost  is  greater,  yet  the  wear  upon  them  is  negligible,  and 
they  last  indefinitely.  * 

I  would  strongly  urge  the  general  adoption  of  this  brace. 


Patent  applied  for. 

FIG.  3. — Fibre  Swift  Brace. 

Iron  Tension  Weights 

These  are  of  various  sizes  and  are  used  to  give  the  necessary 
tension  required  for  the  different  sizes  of  materials  that  are  being 
worked.  By  their  use,  the  yarn  is  wound  on  the  bobbins  with  a 
uniform  tension,  being  neither  too  hard  nor  too  soft. 

Tension  weights  are  made  with  hooks  on  one  end  so  that  they 


8  WINDING  PROCESSES 

may  be  attached  to  the  center  of  the  hub  of  the  swift.     Four, 
eight,  sixteen,  and  thirty-two  ounce  weights  are  generally  used. 

Spindles 

There  are  many  different  makes  of  spindles;  some  are  fash- 
ioned with  iron-pulley  heads  and  others  are  made  of  wood.  Spindle 
bars  are  made  of  iron,  with  lengthwise  grooves  so  that  a  steel-wire 
spring  can  be  inserted  which  holds  the  bobbin  and  prevents  it 
from  slipping  when  in  motion. 

The  use  of  wooden  heads  has  proved  more  satisfactory  for 
winding  operations  on  silk  and  the  finer  materials,  while  iron 
heads  are  generally  used  for  the  coarser  yarns. 

Guiders 

Guiders  made  of  glass,  porcelain  and  enamel,  in  various  shapes, 
are  used  to  deliver  the  ends  of  the  material  that  is  in  process  of 
winding  to  the  bobbins,  and  are  so  adjusted  to  the  guider  rail  that 
they  can  very  easily  be  shifted  from  side  to  side,  as  may  be  re- 
quired, so  as  to  act  in  conjunction  with  the  traverse  bar.  The 
motion  of  the  machine  causes  the  bar  to  move  regularly  from  side 
to  side,  within  the  required  limits,  thus  distributing  and  spreading 
the  threads  evenly  and  uniformly  onto  the  bobbins. 

Power  and  Speed  for  Winding  Machine 

Very  little  power  is  required  for  driving  winding  machinery. 
Fine  and  tender  materials  require  very  slow  speed,  while  strong 
and  coarse  material  can  be  run  at  a  very  much  faster  rate.  There 
is  not  any  fixed  or  standard  rate  of  speed  for  winding  operations. 
It  has  been  found  that  slow  speed  will  improve  the  winding  of 
some  classes  of  yarns,  whereas  strong  material  can  be  wound 
at  high  speed  and  the  production  correspondingly  increased. 

The  speed  can  easily  be  changed  and  regulated  to  suit  the 
material  in  process  of  winding  by  shifting  the  belt  on  the  step  or 
cone  pulley,  or  regulating  the  friction  pulley.  This  regulates  the 
drive  of  the  shaft,  and  keeps  the  pulley  wheels  and  bobbin  spindles 
revolving  at  any  determined  speed.  This  is  called  a  friction  motion 


WINDING,   IN  GENERAL 


9 


and  is  highly  desirable  for  the  successful  winding  of  silk  yarns  and 
other  delicate  materials. 


Winding,  in  General 

Proper  winding  is  of  the  greatest  importance  in  textile  manu- 
facture, as  all  yarns  must  be  wound  before  fabrics  can  be  man- 
ufactured therefrom.  The  object  is  to  transfer  the  yarns  evenly 
and  rapidly  from  the  skein  state  to  the  bobbins,  working  with 


FIG.  4. — 1.  Skein  parting  and  dressing  pole.  2.  Roll,  and  skein,  of  yarn. 
3.  Scale  for  weighing  yarn.  4.  Bundle  of  dyed  silk  yarn.  5.  Mill 
basket,  with  empty  bobbins.  6.  Fibre  mill  box  with  wound  bobbins. 

such  materials  as  silk,  artificial  silk,  wool,  cotton  and  other  fibres 
that  are  used  in  the  weaving  of  plain,  Jacquard,  and  mixed  fabrics. 
Although  the  characteristics  of  the  various  yarns  greatly  differ, 
the  treatment  varies  but  little  in  the  processes  of  winding,  warping, 
doubling  and  quilling,  but  sharp  attention  is  called  to  the  fact 
that  each  material  requires  a  wide  experience  to  handle  and 
humor  it,  so  that  the  proper  tension  may  be  applied  in  the 
winding. 


10  WINDING  PROCESSES 

The  winding  of  dyed  soft  silk  is  the  most  difficult,  requiring 
not  only  skill,  but  long  experience  in  such  matters  as  the  finding 
of  lost  ends,  keeping  the  greatest  number  of  swifts  running,  and 
making  as  little  waste  as  possible  of  costly  yarn.  Operatives  who 
have  had  a  wide  experience  in  the  handling  of  raw  or  hard  silk, 
and  who,  eventually,  become  soft-silk  winders,  and  are  thus  familiar 
with  the  treatment  of  silk  in  its  raw  state  and,  after  dyeing,  are 
in  a  valued  class  by  themselves. 

Given  what  is  known  as  good  silk,  and  such  operatives  as 
outlined  above,  the  result  in  the  winding  room  is  invariably  excel- 
lent. But,  with  inferior  low-grade  silk  to  be  processed,  there 
will  be  constant  trouble,  even  though  the  operative  is  an  expert. 
On  the  other  hand,  a  careless  and  unskilled  operative  can  be  the 
cause  of  endless  trouble  even  with  the  best  of  silk. 

Some  female  operatives  adapt  themselves  very  readily  to 
winding,  with  all  its  peculiar  and  exacting  details,  and  learn  very 
quickly,  becoming  quite  skilful  in,  say,  from  six  months  to  a  year. 
Others  require  two  or  three  years  to  reach  an  effective  point,  and 
some  never  become  really  proficient. 

In  a  large  winding  department,  where  there  are  many  opera- 
tives and  a  great  variety  of  sizes  and  colors  are  to  be  worked,  the 
foreman  should  endeavor,  as  far  as  possible,  in  giving  out  silk  to 
be  wound,  to  select  the  operatives  best  qualified  to  handle  the 
different  lots  with  the  least  delay. 

Each  operative  should  be  supplied  with  a  box  or  basket,  and 
clean  paper  to  cover  same,  in  which  to  place  silk  or  other  material 
to  be  wound. 

Upon  receiving  a  lot  of  silk  to  be  wound,  and  before  commenc- 
ing work,  the  operative  should  check  up  the  rolls  and  skeins  with 
the  lot  ticket,  and  ascertain  therefrom  the  number  and  description 
of  bobbins  to  be  used  for  the  various  sizes  of  materials  to  be 
worked. 

The  skeins  of  the  rolls  should  be  separated  very  carefully  and 
each  skein  handled  by  itself.  Great  care  should  be  taken  not  to 
break,  tear  or  tangle  the  ends  while  parting  the  skeins  to  find  the 
starting  end  that  is  always  attached  to  one  of  the  tie  bands.  This 
end  is  usually  located  on  the  outside  of  the  skein,  and  the  skein 
must  be  so  placed  on  the  swift  that  it  will  unwind  from  the  out- 


WINDING,  IN  GENERAL  11 

side,  and  in  a  direction  away  from  the  operative.  After  the  skeins 
have  been  placed,  by  the  operative,  on  the  swift,  and  evenly 
adjusted,  she  then  removes  the  tie-bands,  unfastening  last  the  one 
to  which  the  ends  of  the  skein  have  been  attached,  being  careful 
to  keep  track  of  the  position  of  the  end  that  is  to  be  wound. 

After  inserting  a  spindle  in  the  bobbin,  she  attaches  this  end  to 
it  by  winding  it  a  few  times  round  the  barrel,  but  she  should  not 
tie  it.  The  bobbin,  with  its  spindle,  is  then  placed  in  the  spindle 
bracket,  and  the  end  is  passed  through  the  porcelain  guide  on  the 
traverse  bar.  When  the  spindle  is  started,  the  thread  will  begin 
to  unwind  from  the  skein  onto  the  bobbin,  and  the  traverse  bar, 
moving  to  and  fro,  spreads  it  evenly  across  the  width  of  the  bobbin, 
the  winding  being  continued  until  it  is  full. 

The  silk  on  the  bobbin  should  never  be  allowed  to  fill  it  higher 
than  the  circumference  of  the  bobbin  head,  and,  in  fact,  it  is  better 
not  to  fill  it  quite  so  full. 

Good  strong  silk  will  wind  without  much  machinery  stoppage. 
An  ordinary  operative  can  easily  keep  75  to  100  skeins  of  soft  silk 
running.  An  inexperienced  operative  can  very  easily  damage  the 
best  of  silk  by  careless  and  rough  handling  and  tangling,  and 
losing  the  cross.  Such  operatives  keep  very  few  skeins  running. 

Then,  again,  there  are  a  number  of  other  causes  for  poor  wind- 
ing. Silk  of  inferior  quality,  or  which  has  been  damaged  in  the 
throwing  or  dyeing  operations,  presents  unlimited  difficulties  in 
the  winding.  It  can  only  be  wound  by  a  skilled  operative  and 
even  then  the  production  is  so  slow  that  the  winding,  at  best,  will 
be  very  costly.  Never  should  such  silk  be  given  to  an  inexperi- 
enced winder  as  the  results  are  invariably  disastrous. 

The  amount  of  silk  an  operative  can  wind  in  one  working  day 
depends  greatly  upon  the  skill  she  possesses  and  the  quality  and 
state  of  the  silk.  Under  normal  conditions,  with  good  silk  (say 
If  dram,  ft  oz->  organ.)  a  fair  operative  can  wind  about  18 
to  24  pounds  in  a  ten-hour  day.  If  the  same  operative  is  obliged 
to  contend  with  inferior  or  damaged  silk,  in  spite  of  the  most  care- 
ful handling,  pounding,  pulling,  and  dampening,  change  of  ten- 
sion weights  and  of  speed  of  machine,  and  the  many  little  humor- 
ing devices  known  to  good  operatives,  from  5  to  10  skeins  is  all 
that  can  be  kept  running,  and  2  to  3  pounds  a  day  produced. 


12  WINDING  PROCESSES 

The  general  treatment  in  skein  winding  of  other  materials  is 
about  the  same  as  for  silk,  although  an  experienced  silk  operative 
is  not  rated  as  a  wool,  cotton,  or  artificial  silk  operative,  unless 
actual  experience  has  been  had.  Some  rapidly  learn  to  handle 
all  kinds  of  material,  while  there  are  any  number  of  operatives 
now  employed  whose  experience  has  been  limited  to  one  particular 
kind  of  yarn. 

Be  it  well  understood  that  every  operative  does  not  go  about 
her  work  in  the  same  way.  It  will  be  found  that  some  are  neat- 
ness personified.  Cleanliness  is  an  essential  adjunct  to  good  work, 
and  it  is  often  recognized  in  practice  that,  where  the  attendant 
is  a  person  of  neat  appearance,  better  work  is  invariably  found 
on  and  about  the  machine  she  is  working  at,  as  compared  with 
another  attendant  of  more  untidy  habits.  For  instance,  this 
class  of  operatives  will  start  their  bobbins  with  great  care,  making 
sure  that  every  end  is  fastened,  but  not  tied,  to  a  clean  bobbin, 
and  that  each  bobbin  fills  up  evenly  and  is  uniform  in  both  ten- 
sion and  appearance.  This  class  also  take  care  to  tie  good  knots, 
keep  their  ends  running  as  much  as  possible,  and  keep  their  work 
and  their  clothing  free  from  waste.  Winders  of  this  sort  are  val- 
ued employees. 

There  is  another  class  of  operatives  who  are  careless  and 
untidy.  Their  one  idea  seems  to  be  to  get  the  work  off  utterly 
regardless  of  how  it  should  be  done.  Very  often  this  kind  of 
operative  seems  to  work  harder  than  her  skilled  sister,  but  she  is  a 
retarding  element.  With  this  sort  of  workpeople,  ends  are  started 
on  bobbins  whether  the  latter  are  clean  or  not.  Their  bobbins 
are  allowed  to  fill  up  on  one  side  which  leads  to  undesirable  uneven- 
ness.  They  pay  no  attention  to  tension  weights  and  so  the  bob- 
bins are  wound  irregularly,  some  soft,  others  hard.  They  tie 
poor  knots  and  considerable  waste  is  found  not  only  in  their  work 
but  also  upon  their  clothing.  Such  operatives,  needless  to  say, 
because  of  the  troubles  they  cause,  should  find  no  place  in  a  well- 
conducted  mill. 

In  the  matter  of  knot  tying,  the  ordinary  loop  knot  is  most 
commonly  used  and  works  very  well  with  some  materials,  but 
this  again  is  dependent  upon  the  usage  to  which  the  yarn  is  to  be 
put.  In  many  winding  plants  the  operative  is  called  upon  to  tie 


WINDING,   IN   GENERAL  13 

a  special  cross,  or  weaver's,  knot,  that  does  not  open  in  the  weav- 
ing operation,  which  sometimes  happens  with  the  loop  knot 
when  a  difficult  weave  is  being  worked. 

The  only  tool  a  winding  operative  requires  is  a  pair  of  special 
scissors  and  this  should  be  used  to  cut  the  ends  when  a  knot  is  tied, 
instead  of  breaking  them  off  as  is  often  done  by  careless  work- 
people. 

Oil  and  rosin  should  not  be  used  on  spindle  heads  and  pulleys 
to  prevent  them  from  slipping,  as  it  has  been  found  that  they  do 
more  harm  than  good.  Rosin  causes  the  spindles  to  become  rough 
and  lumpy,  thereby  causing  them  to  jerk  and  produce  end- 
breakage.  Continued  and  persistent  use  of  rosin  causes  the 
hands  of  the  operatives  to  become  sticky  in  manipulating  the 
spindles.  The  only  proper  thing  to  use  in  this  work  is  carpenter's 
chalk,  as  this  gives  the  desired  results  and  makes  for  cleanliness 
in  the  handling  of  materials. 

An  important  point  for  the  foreman  to  bear  in  mind  is  the 
speed  at  which  the  spindles  should  be  run  in  winding  the  various 
classes  of  materials.  If  the  machine  is  running  too  fast  for  the 
particular  yarn  in  work,  the  ends  will  be  continually  snapping  and 
too  large  a  proportion  of  bad  bobbins  will  be  the  result.  If  run- 
ning too  slow,  the  thread  is  apt  to  run  on  slack,  which  will  cause 
soft  bobbins  and  considerable  waste. 

Still  another  important  point  is  the  weighting  of  the  swifts. 
Around  the  hub  or  center  of  each  swift  a  weight  is  loosely  hung, 
and  which,  if  not  of  the  right  proportion  or  weight,  will  cause  a 
great  deal  of  trouble.  If  the  swift  is  not  weighted  sufficiently,  it 
will  very  often  overrun  itself,  then  again,  if  too  heavily  weighted, 
it  will  not  run  fast  enough  for  the  take-up  of  the  bobbins.  Both 
are  faults  which  cause  ends  to  break,  and  which  eventually  tell 
against  the  cost  and  production  of  the  yarn. 

If  perfect  work  is  to  be  achieved,  every  swift  should  run  per- 
fectly true  when  in  its  place  on  the  frame.  It  must  not  run  back 
in  a  contrary  direction  after  having  been  once  stopped.  It  should 
be  adjusted  so  as  to  run  to  a  dead  stop.  Many  operatives  have  a 
very  careless  habit  of  throwing  down  ends  haphazardly  after  they 
have  tied  a  knot,  which  ends  often  get  entangled  in  the  swift,  or 
wrapped  around  the  spindles,  filling  and  choking  them  up  with 


14  WINDING  PROCESSES 

bits  of  fly  ends  and  waste  and  so  interfering  with  the  smooth 
running  of  the  swifts  and  spindles. 

I  When,  owing  to  circumstances,  good  winding  is  out  of  the 
question,  such  lots  of  yarns  should  be  put  through  the  various 
processes  as  cleanly  as  possible,  but  with  no  unnecessary  waste 
of  time.  In  most  instances,  if  such  yarns  receive  too  much  proc- 
essing they  will  become  rough  and  tender  and  cause  trouble  in 
the  weaving  operations. 

In  a  plant  where  a  large  number  of  operatives  are  employed, 
loss  of  time  and  waste,  caused  by  neglecting  details  such  as  have 
just  been  described,  greatly  increase  the  running  cost,  while  if 
consideration  is  given  them  there  will  be  a  large  saving  of  waste  and 
time  and,  at  the  same  time,  the  yarns  will  be  in  a  much  better 
condition  when  they  reach  the  looms. 

>i  Sometimes,  small  lots  are  dyed  for  warps  and  ordered  wound 
on  a  certain  number  of  bobbins.  Generally,  such  lots  are  given  to 
the  operative  with  special  instructions,  but  in  cases  of  this  kind  the 
operative  very  often  cannot  seem  to  get  the  same  quantity  of 
material  upon  each  bobbin  as  instructed,  for,  in  most  cases,  the 
matter  is  mere  guess  work  on  her  part,  and,  consequently,  some 
bobbins  will  contain  more  yarn  than  others  in  the  lot. 

This  can  be  overcome  in  a  measure  by  following  the  rule  given 
herewith.  The  operative  should  ascertain  the  number  of  skeins 
to  the  lot,  divide  this  by  the  required  number  of  bobbins  needed, 
and  the  result  will  give  the  number  of  bobbins  to  be  wound  from 
each  skein. 

Operatives  who  have  not  been  instructed  correctly  as  to  just 
how  to  start  the  end  of  the  yarn  on  the  bobbin,  have  a  most  annoy- 
ing and  unnecessary  habit  of  starting  the  end  lapped  and  doubled, 
with  a  long  end  dangling,  which  snarls  and  causes  the  end  to  tangle 
and  snap  off,  instead  of  running  off  clean.  When  the  yarn,  so 
wound,  is  handled  by  the  warping  operative,  instead  of  running 
off  clean,  breakage  and  snarls  ensue  and  considerable  damage  is 
done.  The  ends  intertwist  causing  smashes  and  crossed  ends  in 
the  warp,  which,  in  turn,  form  waste  and  cause  loss  of  valuable 
time  in  the  warping  department. 

There  are  only  two  correct  methods  of  starting  the  end  in 
winding  yarn  on  the  bobbin.  The  first  method  is  to  hold  the  yarn 


DIFFERENT  KINDS  OF  KNOTS  15 

at  the  extreme  end  on  the  bobbin  between  the  thumb  and  fingers 
of  one  hand  and  with  the  other  hand  give  it  a  few  turns  around 
the  barrel  of  the  bobbin  and  so  start  the  winding.  The  other 
method  is  generally  used  for  the  finer  materials.  The  end  of  the 
yarn  is  wetted  and  placed  so  that  it  will  adhere  to  the  running 
bobbin. 

By  making  use  of  either  of  these  methods  there  will  be  no  dan- 
ger of  the  usual  snapping  or  breaking  off  towards  the  end  of  the 
unwinding  operation  as  the  yarn  will  run  off  clean  from  the  bobbin 
from  start  to  finish. 

Fastening  or  Securing  the  End  on  a  Wound  Bobbin 

An  important  point  connected  with  winding  operations  and  to 
which  attention  should  be  given,  is  to  make  sure  that  the  end  of 
the  yarn  is  properly  fastened  on  the  filled  up  bobbin,  which  does 
away  with  the  unraveling  and  consequent  entanglement  of  the 
loose  end.  If  the  end  is  not  so  fastened,  considerable  waste  is 
sure  to  accumulate.  Very  often  operatives,  when  fastening  the 
ends  on  the  wound  bobbins,  pull  the  end  deep  into  the  bobbin  and 
break  it  off  short.  Consequently,  when  the  bobbin  is  placed  in 
work  in  the  warping  or  quilling  operation,  the  end  cannot  be  found, 
thereby  causing  more  waste  and  loss  of  time. 

The  end  should  always  be  broken  off  in  such  a  manner  that  it 
can  readily  be  seen,  and  no  time  be  lost  in  trying  to  locate  it.  A 
good  way  is  to  leave  the  end  long  enough  to  be  crossed  over  the 
bobbin. 

Different  Kinds  of  Knots 

Properly  tied  knots  are  of  the  greatest  importance,  and 
require  the  attention  of  all  operatives.  There  is  not  enough  said 
or  read  about  knots.  If  there  were  none  to  be  made,  I  believe  that 
half  of  the  time  of  labor,  half  of  the  machinery  required,  in  the 
whole  textile  industry  would  be  saved.  Every  knot  to  be  tied 
entails  the  stoppage  of  a  machine. 

The  accompanying  diagrams  show  the  different  kinds  of  knots, 
both  open  and  closed.  These  are  principally  used  in  the  processes 
of  winding,  warping,  and  quilling. 


16 


WINDING  PROCESSES 


Figure  1  is  a  "  square  knot,"  and  used  only  for  special  pur- 
poses. 

Figure  2  is  a  "  draw  knot,"  used  when  splicing  and  tying 
broken  warp  threads. 

Figure  3  is  a  "  weaver's  "  or  "  cross  knot."  It  is  the  safest 
and  best  and  should  have  the  preference  over  all  others,  where- 
ever  it  can  be  used.  It  is  the  most  solid  and  smooth,  and  also  has 
the  advantage  of  not  slipping  apart. 

Figure  4  is  the  simplest,  easiest  and  quickest  knot  that  can  be 
made.  For  that  reason  it  is  the  most  used,  but  it  is  not  a  safe  one 
to  make  on  the  extreme  ends  of  threads  on  account  of  its  size,  and 
it  also  opens  easily  and  slips  apart. 


FIG.  5. — Different  Kinds  of  Knots,  Open  and  Closed. 


Making  and  Tying  Knots 

All  winding  operatives  should  remember  that  the  making  and 
tying  of  good,  clean  knots  is  of  the  utmost  importance.  It  is 
just  as  easy  to  tie  a  good  knot  as  a  poor  one.  A  skilled  operative 
will  tie  a  perfect  knot  and  use  the  scissors  for  cutting  off  the  ends, 


WINDING  COARSE   MATERIAL  17 

which  should  be  one-eighth  to  one-quarter  of  an  inch  long,  and 
this  in  about  five  seconds.  Other  operatives  are  very  careless  in 
this  branch  of  work  and  do  not  seem  to  realize  the  importance 
of  proper  knot  tying. 

Some  have  the  very  bad  habit  of  tying  snarled  and  stringy  ends 
and  breaking  them  off  with  their  fingers  or  biting  them  off  with 
their  teeth,  instead  of  neatly  cutting  them  off  with  the  scissors. 
Such  knots  cause  all  kinds  of  trouble  in  the  weaving  room  when 
they  are  carelessly  made  in  the  winding,  warping  or  quilling  opera- 
tions. When  one  stops  to  think  of  the  large  number  of  knots  which 
are  really  obligatory  in  processing  yarns,  it  can  readily  be  seen 
that  perfect  goods  cannot  be  manufactured  when  knots  are  im- 
perfectly tied. 

Winding  Coarse  Material 

When  winding  coarse  material  for  filling,  there  should  not  be 
any  knots  tied  in  the  event  of  the  end  breaking,  as  this  would  cause 
lumps  that  would  give  endless  trouble  in  the  weaving.  There 
should  be  one  continuous  length  of  unbroken  and  untied  threads 
upon  the  bobbin,  whether  it  be  full  or  only  partly  so.  It  is  unsafe 
to  lap  two  ends  on  one  bobbin,  as  this  generally  causes  loose  and 
double  ends  in  the  quills,  which,  in  turn,  is  sometimes  the  cause  of 
ends  being  torn  out  of  the  warp,  making  costly  smashes. 

Mixing  in  the  Winding  Operation 

It  is  very  dangerous  to  give  an  operative  materials  of  the  same 
shade  but  of  different  sizes  unless  the  sizes  so  differ  that  mixing 
will  be  easily  detected.  Giving  mixed  lots  to  operatives  should  be 
avoided  as  much  as  possible,  but  at  times  this  cannot  be  avoided. 
In  such  cases  the  operative  should  be  instructed  as  to  the  charac- 
teristics of  each  particular  lot. 

Careless  Winding  Operatives 

Careless  operatives  will  often  allow  the  draughts  from  an  open 
window  to  blow  upon  their  work,  which  naturally  deflects  the  ends 
of  the  material  from  their  proper  course,  thereby  causing  defective 
work.  Then  again,  they  will  carelessly  drop  pieces  of  material 


18  WINDING  PROCESSES 

cut  from  the  long  knots,  which  often  are  caught  by  the  running 
thread  and  carried  around  the  bobbin,  or  the  swifts,  thereby  causing 
trouble. 

Sometimes  during  the  operation  of  placing  the  bobbins  and 
spindles  in  the  bearing  brackets,  the  broken  ends,  picked  from 
bobbins,  will  often  catch  and  wind  around  the  spindle  bearing, 
moving  it  slightly  from  its  position  and  so  produce  defective 
work.  Winding  machinery  should  be  examined  frequently  and 
kept  up  to  a  high  state  of  efficiency. 

Winding  Bobbin  Stopper  Device 

A  devics  to  overcome  the  overrunning  of  bobbins  should  be 
attached  to  all  winding  machines,  but,  to  the  writer's  knowledge, 
such  devices  are  not  furnished  with  the  machines  by  the  builders. 

Touching  on  this  point,  the  writer,  many  years  ago,  had  a 
device  specially  made  which  has  proved  satisfactory  and  bene- 
ficial in  winding  operations  on  all  classes  of  materials  and  which 
has  been  in  use  ever  since. 

The  device  is  made  of  light  cast  iron,  similar  to  an  ordinary  shelf 
bracket,  with  a  short  slot  made  lengthwise  in  the  upright  part. 
In  the  slot  is  inserted  a  small  screw  or  bolt  so  that  it  may  be  at- 
tached to  the  winding  machine,  either  on  its  wooden  or  iron  parts. 
This  permits  the  adjustment  of  the  bracket  so  as  to  fit  the  re- 
quired size  of  bobbin,  which  is  accomplished  by  simply  loosening 
the  bracket  and  sliding  it  either  up  or  down  as  the  requirements 
demand.  When  the  bobbin  has  received  the  proper  amount  of 
material  it  will  touch  the  second  half  of  the  bracket  and  cause  it 
to  raise  from  the  contact  of  the  spindle  pulley  thereby  stopping 
the  bobbin. 

This  device  can  be  so  arranged  as  to  fit  any  make  of  winding 
machine  and  eliminates  all  danger  of  the  bobbins  winding  too  full 
and  running  over,  thus  preventing  unnecessary  waste  of  cosily 
material. 

Tracing  the  Workmanship  of  the  Operatives 

In  a  mill  where  there  are  a  number  of  operatives  and  large 
quantities  of  material  of  one  size  and  color  to  be  worked  at  the 


ARTIFICIAL  SILKS  19 

same  time,  it  is  very  important  to  use  a  carefully-planned  system 
so  that  the  work  of  each  operative  can  be  accurately  traced.  By 
the  use  of  this  method,  imperfect  workmanship  can  be  readily 
discovered,  and  the  operatives,  on  succeeding  operations,  can  be 
cautioned. 

There  are  a  number  of  such  systems  in  use.  One  is  the  pasting 
of  letters  or  numbers  on  the  bobbins;  another  is  the  making  use 
of  different-colored  bobbins  for  each  operative.  The  best  and 
most  reliable  method  is,  perhaps,  the  use  of  narrow  strips  of  dif- 
ferent-colored tissue  papers,  about  \  by  2  inches,  placed  lengthwise 
on  the  empty  bobbins.  One  end  of  the  paper  should  be  left  out 
and  fastened  in  the  space  between  the  spindle  head  and  bobbin, 
thus  enabling  the  work  to  be  traced  as  long  as  there  is  any  yarn  on 
the  bobbin. 

Artificial  Silks 

The  writer  has  had  a  somewhat  varied  and  exhaustive  experi- 
ence with  the  handling  of  artificial  silk  yarns  and,  therefore,  is  in  a 
position  to  point  out  ways  of  overcoming  the  many  difficulties  to 
be  contended  with  in  the  winding,  warping  and  quilling  of  this 
commodity.  Artificial  silk  yarn  will  not  stand  the  machinery 
tension  or  strain  as  is  the  case  with  natural  silk  and  other  yarns. 
The  artificial  fiber  should  be  well  dried  before  the  winding  process 
is  attempted.  The  best  winding  results  are  obtained  by  care- 
fully opening  the  skeins  and  spreading  them  loosely  on  dressing 
poles  made  with  stout  wooden  arms  or  pegs;  then  shake  and  smooth 
out  the  skeins  by  hard  jerks  with  a  stout,  round  and  smooth 
wooden  parting  stick,  so  as  to  give  them  the  proper  dressing  and 
parting.  The  parting  stick  should  be  placed  in  between  the  skein 
and  be  made  use  of  to  smooth  and  straighten  it  out,  instead  of 
using  the  hands,  as  it  requires  more  strength  to  separate  the  sticky 
ends  than  the  hands  can  supply  unaided. 

A  light  application  of  paraffine  to  the  dressing  pole,  and  the 
spreading  of  the  skein  and  careful  rubbing  around  the  pole,  will 
greatly  improve  the  winding  of  sticky  skeins,  but  the  careless  use 
of  paraffine  is  apt  to  cause  streaks  in  some  classes  of  fabrics. 

In  this  class  of  winding  work,  the  swifts  should  be  equipped 
\vith  straight  fibre,  wood,  or  wire  braces,  so  as  to  keep  the  skein 


20  WINDING  PROCESSES 

smooth,  flat  and  uniform  upon  the  swifts.  The  swifts  should  be 
kept  free  from  waste  and  all  should  be  run  with  the  same  even  ten- 
sion, so  that  the  bobbins  are  neither  too  soft  nor  too  hard.  Very 
soft  bobbins  cause  tangled  and  loose  ends,  which  lead  to  consider- 
able waste.  Hard-wound  bobbins  and  quills  will  cause  streaky 
defects  in  the  woven  fabric. 

The  wound  bobbins  should  be  handled  in  the  same  careful 
manner  as  the  skeins. 

The  best  results  in  artificial  silk  quilling  can  be  obtained  by 
using  a  special  quill,  grooved  around  its  entire  length,  and  slightly 
tapered  at  the  point.  The  grooved  quill  grips  the  silk  more  firmly 
than  a  smooth  quill  and  prevents  it  from  slipping  off,  thereby  sav- 
ing considerable  waste.  Wound  quills  that  have  been  stored  for 
an  unreasonable  length  of  time  will  eventually  become  too  soft 
for  weaving  purposes,  owing  to  their  drying  out. 

Work  on  an  artificial-silk  warp  should,  whenever  practicable, 
be  commenced  and  completed  the  same  day.  An  unfinished  warp 
left  wound  upon  the  warp  reel  for  twenty-four  hours  is  thereby 
subjected  to  atmospheric  changes  and  may  become  sagged  and 
slack,  making  it  impossible  to  secure  a  perfect  and,  therefore,  satis- 
factory warp  for  weaving. 


CHAPTER  III 
WARPING  PROCESSES 

Various  Warping  Systems 

THERE  are  many  different  warping  systems  in  use  and  opinions 
differ  widely  as  to  which  is  the  best  and  cheapest  in  the  long  run. 
The  warping  process  has  always  been  an  important  factor  in  tex- 
tile manufacture,  which,  doubtless,  has  led  to  the  establishment  of 
so  many  different  warping  systems.  However,  the  most  rational 
warping  system  in  regard  to  quality  results  is  given  herewith. 

The  warps  should  be  built  as  quickly  as  possible  on  horizontal 
Swiss  motion  machines,  with  the  use  of  large  bobbin  creels,  and 
beamed  without  picking  as  soon  as  the  warp  is  completed.  The 
warp  should  be  placed  on  a  power  warp-picking  frame,  and  the 
picking  done  at  this  machine.  In  this  frame  there  is  a  special 
double  cross  picked,  besides  those  existing  in  the  warp,  the  warp 
being  put  through  a  special  reed  for  this  purpose.  This  makes 
possible  the  elimination  of  all  imperfections  and  defects  in  the 
yarns  and  other  troubles  which  arise,  and  so  assures  absolutely 
perfect  warps,  a  great  advantage  when  high-speed  looms,  weaver's 
wages,  and  quality  demanded,  are  taken  into  consideration.  The 
saying  in  the  craft  is  "  a  perfectly  made  warp  is  more  than  half 
woven/'  and  in  no  process  of  textile  manufacturing  is  more  skill 
required  than  in  the  warping  operation. 

Warping  Machines 

There  are  a  number  of  these  warping  machines  available  and 
they  are  generally  built  to  suit  specific  requirements.  They  can 
be  constructed  so  as  to  make  any  required  width  or  length  of  warp 
desired,  and  the  machines  are  furnished  with  creels  made  of  wood 
and  iron,  or  what  is  known  as  a  pipe  creel,  all  iron,  with  steel  or 
glass  dent  reed  cased  in  a  wooden  frame  atop  of  the  creel.  The 

21 


22 


WARPING  PROCESSES 


creel  can  be  made  with  any  number  of  bobbin  pins,  as  may  be 
required,  the  usual  number  being,  in  practice,  from  300  to  1000 
pins.  Up  to  recent  years,  the  Swiss  machine,  with  a  two-meter 
reel  and  a  300-pin  creel,  operated  with  a  direct-power  drive  and 
regulated  with  step-drive  pulleys,  had  been  in  widest  use,  but, 
with  the  appearance  of  the  horizontal  Swiss  motion  machine,  which 
has  an  8-yard  reel,  there  has  been  a  notable  decrease  in  the  use 


FIG.  6. — Swiss  Sectional  Warping  Frame,  and  Creel. 

of  the  old  Swiss  machine,  as  the  horizontal  Swiss  machine  has 
proved  more  serviceable  and  more  advantageous  in  other  ways. 
Several  reasons  are  given  herewith  to  demonstrate  the  advan- 
tages of  the  horizontal  machine. 

1.  The  operations  of  warping  and  beaming  are  performed  on 
one  machine. 

2.  A  larger  creel  and  far  greater  number  of  bobbins  can  be 
used. 

3.  Silk  and  cotton  warps  of  any  length  and  width  can  readily 
be  built  on  these  machines. 


WARPING   MACHINES 


23 


4.  The  machine  is  run  with  friction  power,  operated  with  a 
tread  pedal,  and  can  be  regulated  to  run  at  a  steady  and  smooth 
speed,  or  a  fast  speed,  if  required. 

5.  Heavy  warps  can  be  made  upon  these  machines. 

6.  They  are  easily  handled  by  the  operative  when  it  is  neces- 
sary to  pull  back  and  fix  broken  ends. 

7.  Then  again,  the  Swiss  motion  can  be  disconnected  and  the 
machine  operated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  plain  horizontal 


FIG.  7. — Horizontal  Warper,  with  Warp  and  eight-yard  reel.  1.  Tread 
pedal.  2.  Carriage,  and  space  reed.  3.  Stave.  4.  Cross  reed.  5. 
Beaming  drive  device. 

machine,  which  is  a  decided  advantage  when  used  for  making 
spaced  and  fancy  dispositions  and  striped  warps. 

The  number  of  pins  required  is  generally  governed  by  the  kind 
of  warp  that  is  to  be  made.  Creels  containing  400  to  600  pins  are 
the  most  commonly  used,  and  the  pins  should  be  made  Ij  inches 
longer  than  the  bobbins  so  that  they  will  be  long  enough  to  place 
an  extra  bobbin  upon  each  pin.  The  all-iron  pipe  creel  is  stronger, 
and  with  its  use  all  bobbins  can  readily  be  seen  while  in  motion, 
a  very  important  point  in  warping  operations. 


24  WARPING   PROCESSES 

The  reeds  used  for  warping  are  one  single  or  double  cross  reed, 
with  as  many  dents  in  each  reed  as  there  are  pins  on  the  creel,  and 
one  spacing  reed,  with  as  many  dents  to  the  inch  as  are  required 
for  the  work  to  be  done.  There  are  other  cross  reeds  that  can  be 
used,  such  as  a  triple  or  quadruple  in  the  cross. 

Male  operatives  are  generally  employed  to  operate  the  hori- 
zontal machines,  as  it  requires  more  strength  to  do  this  work  than 
is  usually  possessed  by  the  average  woman  operative,  although 
women  do  handle  these  machines  successfully  with  the  help  of  men 
to  lift  the  beams  in  and  out.  The  constant  treading  of  the  power, 
and  the  lifting  of  the  beams  and  weights,  and  the  high  reaching, 
however,  are  very  tiring.  When  women  operatives  are  employed 
for  this  work,  the  assistance  of  a  boy  is  given  to  lift  the  beams  and 
weights  and  do  other  heavy  work  which  the  female  operative 
cannot  be  expected  to  accomplish. 

The  old  Swiss  warping  machine  differs  from  the  horizontal 
Swiss  warping  machine  in  the  fact  that  it  is  more  easily  operated. 
Steel  crossing  bars  are  placed  on  brackets  between  the  cross  and 
space  reeds  to  be  used  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  cross  in  each 
section,  and  the  bars  are  also  required  to  hold  the  cross  open 
through  the  entire  length  of  the  section.  The  reel  is  much  smaller 
and  the  warp  is  wound  over  the  reel,  but,  when  beaming,  the  warp 
is  wound  from  under  the  reel,  over  a  slow  traverse  or  guide  roller 
on  the  beaming  machine,  onto  the  warp  beam.  The  measuring 
dial,  being  set  for  the  required  length  of  the  warp,  stops  the  reel 
automatically  when  the  set  length  is  reached.  Again,  in  working, 
the  Swiss  machine  the  operative  has  no  beaming  or  treading  to  do 
as  the  machine  is  driven  with  a  friction  clutch  pulley  and  is 
usually  started  by  means  of  a  quick  jerk  of  the  shifter.  The 
machine  will  then  keep  running  at  a  steady  speed  until  the  shifter 
is  used  once  more  to  stop  it.  These  sudden  stops  cause  the  ends  to 
slacken,  a  condition  which  is  overcome  by  the  operative  turning 
the  reel  with  the  hand. 

A  smaller  creel  is  used,  generally  that  of  the  300-bobbin  pin 
description.  Then,  again,  there  is  considerably  less  reaching  to 
be  done  as  the  creel  and  reed  frame  are  lower  than  is  the  case  on  a 
horizontal  machine.  A  dial  is  attached  to  the  machine  for  measur- 
ing the  length  of  the  warp.  This  dial  must  be  changed  and  set 


HOW  TO  ADJUST  THE  ELEVATION  IRONS  25 

for  each  different  warp  length,  and  so  the  machine  is  stopped  auto- 
matically at  the  length  of  the  warp.  There  are  elevation  irons  on 
the  warp  reel  that  are  raised  or  lowered  as  necessity  demands 
when  making  a  warp.  The  raising  or  lowering  of  these  elevation 
irons  is  governed  by  the  size  of  the  yarn,  the  number  of  ends  con- 
tained in  the  warp,  and  the  width  of  the  warp  that  is  to  be  made. 
There  is  no  set  rule  for  setting  the  elevation  irons  and  this  matter 
is  usually  attended  to  by  the  foreman,  whose  experience  has 
taught  him  to  judge  the  height  at  which  to  set  them.  When 
unfamiliar  warps  are  to  be  made  and  difficulty  arises  in  determin- 
ing the  heights  at  which  to  set  the  irons,  the  foreman  or  person  in 
charge  of  this  work  can  be  guided  by  the  following  rule: 

How  to  Adjust  the  Elevation  Irons 

After  the  dial  has  been  set  for  the  required  length  of  the  warp, 
and  the  elevation  irons  raised  to  the  supposed  correct  height, 
30  or  40  meters  of  the  first  section  upon  the  warp  reel  should 
be  run,  after  which  operation  it  will  be  readily  seen  whether  the 
correct  elevation  has  been  obtained  by  observing  if  the  width  of 
the  section  is  level.  If  the  section  tends  to  lean  towards  the  right 
or  left  it  should  be  pulled  back  on  the  arm  and  the  iron  raised  or 
lowered  until  the  desired  elevation  is  obtained. 

After  the  correct  elevation  or  height  of  the  irons  has  been  ob- 
tained, always  taking  measurements  from  their  highest  points,  it 
is  a  very  good  plan  to  keep  a  memorandum  of  same,  so  that  if  that 
particular  warp  should  be  ordered  made  again  a  reference  to  this 
memorandum  will  prevent  loss  of  time  in  the  setting  of  the  irons. 
Elevation  irons  are  also  known  as  "  grade  bars." 

Very  often  a  warp  is  damaged  more  or  less  if  the  elevation  irons 
are  not  set  properly,  as  it  will  beam  off  slack  on  one  side  and  tight 
on  the  other.  This  defect  can  usually  be  overcome  by  making 
use  of  very  heavy  tension  weights  and  of  more  beaming  paper 
on  the  slack  side  of  the  warp,  but,  notwithstanding  these  pre- 
cautions, an  imperfect  warp  can  usually  be  expected. 

The  operation  of  the  Swiss  warping  machine  is  very  similar  to 
that  of  the  horizontal  machine.  The  differences  can  easily  be 
grasped  by  an  intelligent  operative  in  two  or  three  days.  Although 


26  WARPING  PROCESSES 

female  operatives  are  usually  made  use  of  in  operating  the  regular 
Swiss  warping  machine,  their  helplessness  in  the  matter  of  properly 
completing  the  warp  is  often  apparent,  but,  as  it  is  the  usual  cus- 
tom to  assist  one  another,  male  operatives  are  only  required 
to  remove  the  completed  warp,  with  the  reel,  to  the  beaming 
machine. 

Only  the  employment  of  the  most  highly  skilled  operatives 
makes  perfect  warps  possible.  Good  eyesight  is  imperative,  so 
as  to  make  possible  the  rapid  rinding  of  the  many  fine  ends  and 
threads,  the  removing  of  the  lumps,  knots  and  other  imperfections 
in  the  yarns,  and  also  the  seeing  that  all  ends  are  in  their  respective 
places  in  the  reeds,  so  that  they  will  run  straight  and  even  and  not 
snarl  and  tangle.  Then,  again,  there  are  very  difficult  disposi- 
tions made  in  fancy  and  striped  warps  which  require  the  services 
of  skilled  operatives  to  insure  the  proper  handling  of  the  many 
details  pertaining  to  them,  which,  if  overlooked,  cause  consider- 
able trouble  in  both  the  beaming  and  weaving  operations. 

Beaming  machines  are  separate  machines,  and  are  supplied 
by  the  builders  of  the  warping  machines.  They  are  generally 
operated  by  males,  as  there  is  more  or  less  heavy  lifting  to  be 
done,  although,  in  some  cases,  beaming  can  be  accomplished  by 
female  operatives  after  the  warp,  wound  upon  the  reel,  has  been 
lifted  onto  the  beaming  machine. 

Banking,  Tying  Up  and  Reeding  a  Plain  or  One-Colored  Warp 

When  instructions  to  make  a  warp  have  been  received  by  the 
operative  from  the  foreman,  he  should  examine  the  warp  order 
ticket  to  ascertain  the  lot  number,  material,  and  color  of  which 
the  warp  is  to  be  made.  The  amount  of  material  necessary  to 
make  the  warp,  and  the  number  of  bobbins  to  accomplish  the 
work,  should  be  carefully  calculated,  whether  or  not  there  are 
enough  called  for  to  fill  the  creel,  for  the  plan  and  scope  of  the 
warp  is  the  first  thing  to  be  considered. 

Before  the  bobbins  are  banked  up,  the  creel  and  bobbin  pins 
should  be  absolutely  clean  and  no  waste  of  any  kind  should  be 
allowed  to  remain  on  the  bobbin  pins  or  in  the  reed  of  the  creel. 
When  everything  is  ready  to  begin  work,  all  bobbins  are  placed  on 


REEDING  THE  CROSS  REED  27 

the  bobbin  pins  of  the  creel.  If  the  warp  is  to  be  made  of  one  color 
and  material,  the  bobbins  are  placed  on  the  left-hand  side,  the 
first  row  facing  the  creel,  and  so  worked  down  and  up,  on  the  rows 
of  bobbin  pins,  to  the  right  of  the  creel.  If  there  are  ends  in  the 
reed  left  from  the  previous  warp,  the  new  ends  should  be  tied 
or  twisted  thereto.  In  twisting  or  tying  ends,  it  should  be  borne 
in  mind  to  have  the  old  ends  so  fastened  that  they  will  remain  with 
a  firm  tension  on  the  ends  in  the  reeds.  If  there  are  no  old  ends 
in  the  reed,  the  new  ends  are  passed  in  the  reed  of  the  creel  one 
by  one,  care  being  taken  not  to  miss  a  dent  or  put  two  ends  in  a 
dent,  as  this  will  interfere  with  reeding  the  cross  reed.  Care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  every  end  is  in  its  proper  place  through 
the  creel  reed.  Each  row  of  ends  is  then  twisted  together  and  laid 
on  a  bobbin  pin.  After  the  creel  is  banked  and  reeded,  the  num- 
ber of  bobbins  on  the  creel  should  be  counted,  and  each  one  placed 
in  its  respective  position  so  as  to  make  sure  that  the  required 
number  of  bobbins  are  in  the  creel.  The  first  and  last  end  on  the 
creel  should  be  placed  on  the  outside  of  the  first  and  last  dent  of  the 
reed,  which  will  leave  an  empty  dent  on  each  side  of  the  creel. 
This  will  give  the  operative  a  better  view  of  the  outside  ends,  and 
it  can  be  more  readily  seen  when  the  ends  break  out  while  the 
machine  is  in  operation. 

A -background  of  either  paper  or  cloth,  black  or  white,  whichever 
is  best  suited  for  the  warp,  arranged  so  that  the  ends  can  be  dis- 
tinctly seen  when  breaking,  or  dropping  out  of  the  reed,  while  the 
machine  is  in  motion,  is  very  necessary.  All  creels  should  have  the 
number  of  bobbins  marked  on  the  reed  frame  of  the  creel  over  the 
top  of  each  row  of  pins,  starting  with  the  first  row  facing  the  creel 
on  the  left  and  adding  each  individual  row  of  pins  to  the  next  on 
the  right  and  so  on,  until  the  last  row  of  pins  will  have  the  total 
number  of  bobbin  pins  on  the  creel.  This  will  save  time  and 
trouble  in  counting  the  bobbins  while  banking  or  tying  up. 

Reeding  the  Cross  Reed 

The  cross  reed  is  composed  of  a  certain  number  of  dents  and 
contains  an  even  number  in  the  reed.  A  single  cross  reed  has  one 
dent  open  and  the  next  partly  closed,  each  open  dent  being  fol- 
lowed by  a  partly  closed  one  the  whole  length  of  the  reed,  which 


28  WARPING  PROCESSES 

forms  the  shed  of  the  ends  in  the  reed  so  as  to  make  a  cross.  This 
also  applies  to  double,  triple  and  quadruple  cross  reeds,  although 
a  single  reed  can  be  used  for  either  one,  but  it  will  be  a  different 
operation.  Reeding  double,  triple  or  quadruple  ends  in  a  single 
dent  in  this  way,  it  will  be  very  difficult  to  see  any  that  are  mis- 
placed, broken  or  run  out. 

Before  reeding,  a  strip  of  stiff  paper,  either  black  or  white, 
about  the  length  of  the  cross  reed  and  about  2j  inches  wide,  with 
rounded  corners,  should  be  placed  upon  it.  This  will  partly  cover 
the  dents  of  the  reed  and  will  serve  as  a  background,  so  that  the 
ends  may  be  seen  more  distinctly,  and  to  also  hold  them  in  place 
when  being  reeded. 

The  bottom  of  the  cross  reed,  during  the  reeding  operation, 
should  be  held  close  up  to  the  back  of  the  glass  reed  on  the  creel 
top,  and  should  slant  backwards  and  upwards  at  a  convenient 
angle.  The  lower  edge  should  rest  on  the  frame  of  the  creel  reed 
and  the  upper  edge  be  held  in  its  slanting  position  by  a  light  wire 
hook  which  also  hooks  over  the  top  of  the  glass  reed,  and  it  can 
thus  be  easily  slid  along  as  the  reeding  proceeds.  The  reed  should 
be  placed  on  the  right-hand  corner  facing  the  back  of  the  creel. 
If  the  creel  is  too  high  for  the  operative  to  reach  the  reed,  a  plat- 
form to  stand  upon  should  be  furnished  for  this  purpose.  The 
ends  of  the  first  row  should  be  drawn  over  the  reed  with  the  left 
hand,  the  right  hand  holding  a  warper's  reed  hook,  which  should 
be  passed  through  each  dent  so  as  to  draw  each  end  through  from 
the  bottom  side  of  the  reed  and  through  its  respective  dent.  After 
the  ends  of  each  row  are  drawn  through,  they  should  be  knotted 
to  prevent  them  from  slipping  out  of  the  reed.  This  operation 
should  be  done  by  sliding  the  reed  to  the  left  from  one  row  to  the 
other  until  all  ends  on  the  creel  are  reeded.  After  all  ends  are 
reeded,  the  cross  reed  is  carefully  removed  from  the  creel  and 
placed  in  the  reed  frame  on  the  carriage  of  the  warping  machine, 
and  the  knotted  ends  are  then  drawn  out  far  enough  to  hang  over 
the  top  of  the  cross  reed  and  so  are  ready  for  space  reeding. 

The  space  reed  is  somewhat  different  from  the  creel  and  cross 
reeds,  as  it  is  more  compact,  has  finer  dents  and  is  used  to  deter- 
mine the  width  of  the  section.  The  ends  in  each  dent  are  governed 
by  the  width  of  the  warp. 


TO  REED  THE  SPACE  REED  29 

The  number  of  dents  in  a  spacing  reed  varies.  It  is  especially 
pointed  out  that,  when  warping,  the  same  counts  or  dents  of  reeds 
used  for  weaving  are  not  necessarily  employed.  It  largely  de- 
pends upon  the  yarns,  and  the  fabric  that  is  being  made.  Gen- 
erally speaking,  a  30-dent  reed  can  readily  be  used  for  most  warps. 

To  find  the  number  of  ends  that  each  dent  should  contain, 
the  following  rule  will  be  found  to  work  out  satisfactorily:  The 
total  number  of  ends  in  the  warp  should  be  divided  by  the  width 
of  the  warp.  This  result  will  give  the  number  of  ends  to  the  inch 
in  the  warp.  This  quotient  is  then  divided  by  the  number  of 
dents  in  the  reed,  which  result  will  give  the  number  of  ends  to  be 
reeded  in  each  dent.  For  example,  a  warp  containing  4640  ends 
— width  29  inches,  30-dent  reed  used. 

4640  H- 29  inches  =  160  ends  per  inch 
160-f- 10  inches  =     5  ends  and  10  over. 

In  this  case  it  will  be  seen  that  the  warp  will  be  reeded  first 
two  dents,  5  ends  each,  then  every  third  dent  6  ends,  and  repeating 
in  this  manner  until  all  the  ends  are  reeded. 

To  Reed  the  Space  Reed 

A  strip  of  stiff  paper,  either  light  or  dark,  of  about  2  inches  in 
width  and  the  full  length  of  the  space  reed,  with  rounded  corners,  is 
used.  This  strip  of  paper,  which  is  used  for  a  background,  is 
placed  upon  the  top  of  the  space  reed,  which  is  held  in  the  left 
hand  at  right  angles,  and  at  the  bottom  of  the  cross  reed.  A 
number  of  ends  are  taken  in  the  same  hand  and  the  number  for 
ends  to  be  placed  in  each  dent  are  counted  by  means  of  a  reed 
hook  which  is  held  in  the  right  hand,  and  by  which  the  ends  are 
pulled  through  the  dents.  Great  care  should  be  taken  to  place 
each  end  in  its  proper  dent.  After  the  spacing  reed  is  reeded  it  is 
returned  to  its  place  on  the  carriage  with  all  the  ends  tied  in  one 
knot. 

How  to  Ascertain  the  Starting  Mark  of  the  First  Section 

To  ascertain  the  starting  mark  of  the  first  section,  so  as  to  reel 
the  warp  on  the  center  of  the  reel,  where  there  is  more  than  one 


30 


WARPING  PROCESSES 


SECTION  SPACE  REED 


SINGLE  CROSS  REED 


DOUBLE  CROSS  REED 


TRIPLE  CROSS  REED 
FIG.  8. 


PREPARING  THE  FIRST  SECTION  TO  WIND  ON  THE  REEL  31 

size  of  beam  used,  it  will  be  necessary,  first  of  all,  to  know  the  size 
and  length  of  the  beam  that  the  warp  is  to  be  beamed  over,  so  as  to 
beam  the  warp  on  the  center  of  the  beam.  The  beam  is  placed  in 
the  proper  device  on  the  warping  machine  and  the  exact  center  of 
the  beam  is  marked.  The  reel  of  the  warping  machine  is  then 
turned  so  that  the  slat  containing  the  row  of  pins  faces  the  beam. 
The  mark  on  the  center  of  the  beam — being  the  center  of  the 
imaginary  warp — should  be  transferred  to  the  slat  containing  the 
row  of  pins.  The  reel  is  then  turned  back  to  its  original  position 
and  the  mark  which  corresponds  with  the  center  of  the  beam  serves 
as  the  guide  to  place  the  warp  on  the  reel.  It  should  be  under- 
stood that  whatever  width  the  warp  is  to  be  made,  one-half  of  the 
warp  will  be  on  each  side  of  this  center  mark.  For  example,  take 
a  24-inch  warp.  Measure  12|  inches  from  the  center  mark  of 
the  warp,  allowing  \  inch  more  for  contraction  in  the  width  of 
the  warp,  and  from  this  point  start  the  first  section. 

In  making  warps,  it  is  sometimes  best  to  make  them  a  trifle 
wider  than  the  order  calls  for  but  never  in  any  case  should  they  be 
narrower. 

Preparing  the  First  Section  to  Wind  on  the  Reel 

This  particular  section  should  be  passed  under'  the  first  guide 
roller  and  over  the  upper  second  guide  roller,  and  the  knotted  ends 
hooked  on  the  pin  of  the  slat  nearest  to  the  starting  mark.  This 
will  hold  the  section  in  place  while  the  cross  is  being  made  in  the 
section.  To  make  the  cross,  the  section  is  raised  with  the  left 
hand  so  that  one-half  of  the  number  of  ends  forms  the  upper  shed 
at  the  cross  reed;  the  cross  rod  is  then  passed  through  the  shed, 
so  securing  this  half  of  the  cross  with  one  of  the  cross  sticks  that 
are  on  the  carriage  between  the  section  rollers  and  reed.  The  reel 
is  then  slightly  moved  so  as  to  tighten  the  slackened  ends  of  the 
section,  and  the  section  pressed  down  with  the  left  hand  so  as  to 
form  the  lower  shed.  The  other  cross  rod  is  now  passed  through 
the  shed  as  before  so  as  to  secure  it  with  the  other  cross  stick.  The 
ends  should  be  examined  closely  to  ascertain  if  they  are  properly 
crossed.  If  this  be  the  case,  the  ends  will  be  one  over  and  one 
under,  on  either  one  of  the  cross  sticks,  throughout  the  warp. 


32  WARPING  PROCESSES 

Two  lease  cords,  long  enough  to  reach  over  the  width  of  the 
reel,  are  then  tied  on  the  right  side  facing  the  reel,  say  about  half  a 
yard  above  the  slat  with  the  pins  and  passed  through  the  cross  of 
the  section  under  the  first  or  smaller  guide  roller,  the  reel  being 
sufficiently  moved  so  as  to  permit  the  tying  of  the  other  end  of 
the  lease  cord,  which  should  be  passed  through  the  cross  of  the 
section,  and  so  on  to  the  left  side  facing  the  reel. 

To  Set  the  Measuring  Dial 

After  this  is  done,  the  movement  of  the  measuring  dial  should 
be  tried.  To  accomplish  this,  the  dial  is  turned  so  as  to  ascertain 
in  which  direction  the  dial  moves  and  so  mark  the  correct  place  on 
the  teeth.  The  dial  is  then  loosened  and  slid  out,  which  enables 
it  to  be  turned  either  back  or  forth  as  required. 

A  chalk  mark  should  be  made  on  the  dial  between  two  of  the 
teeth,  which  answers  the  purpose  of  a  starting  mark  for  measuring 
the  length  of  the  warp.  Usually,  the  circumference  of  the  reel 
measures  8  yards.  The  distance  from  one  slat  of  the  reel  to 
another  will  measure  half  a  yard.  By  turning  the  reel  completely 
around,  the  teeth  of  the  dial  will  be  so  moved  as  to  pass  the 
starting  mark,  consequently  every  tooth  of  the  measuring  dial 
will  indicate  8  yards  upon  the  warp  reel. 

To  set  the  dial  for  a  certain  number  of  yards,  the  number  of 
yards  should  be  divided  by  eight  and  the  result  will  designate  the 
number  of  teeth  to  be  counted  from  the  starting  mark  of  the  dial. 
For  instance,  a  warp  is  to  be  made  120  yards  long.  Dividing  120 
yards  by  8  gives  as  a  result  15.  Therefore,  fifteen  teeth  from  the 
chalked  starting  point  will  be  the  starting  mark  for  this  particular 
warp. 

If  the  warp  is  to  be  made  less  than  8  yards,  the  number  of 
yards  should  equal  twice  the  number  of  slats,  each  slat  signifying 
one-half  yard;  the  required  length  is  thus  obtained  and  the  same 
process  will  work  out  for  cuts  and  cut-off  marks. 

The  dial  should  be  so  set  as  to  cause  the  bell  to  ring  when  the 
last  8  yards  of  the  section  are  about  to  be  finished.  This 
method  should  be  tried  out  a  few  times  so  as  to  make  sure  that  it 
works  correctly.  By  setting  the  dial  in  this  manner,  the  operative 


POWER-DRIVING  DEVICES  33 

will  be  warned  to  watch  for  the  cut-off  marks.  The  dial  should  be 
examined  very  carefully  before  starting  the  section,  and  also  before 
cutting  the  finished  section,  so  as  to  make  sure  that  it  is  set  right 
and  has  stopped  at  the  correct  mark. 

Power-driving  Devices 

The  driving  connections  are  arranged  so  as  to  run  the  beaming 
direct  from  the  main  shaft;  but  the  reel  is  driven  by  means  of 
the  two  grooved  pulleys  and  one  friction  pulley  on  the  right  side  of 
the  reel,  and  is  controlled  by  means  of  the  treadle  to  start  and  stop 
the  reel. 

Winding  the  First  Section  on  the  Reel 

Before  starting  to  wind  the  section  upon  the  reel,  the  operative 
should  note  that  the  measuring  dial  is  set  correctly  and  that  all 
ends  are  in  their  proper  places  in  all  the  reeds,  as  well  as  in  all  the 
crosses.  The  treadle  should  be  used  to  start  the  reel,  which  must 
run  very  slowly  at  first.  Close  watch  should  be  kept  on  the  ends 
at  the  creel  and  cross,  so  that  if  a  break  occurs,  or  an  end  drops 
out,  these  things  will  be  immediately  noted.  A  good  way  to 
detect  breakage  is  to  place  the  left  hand  lightly,  and  in  a  flat 
position,  over  the  section,  as  in  this  way  the  hand  will  feel  the  slack 
and  tight  ends,  and  thus  the  ends  that  break  out  will  be  easily 
detected.  Broken  ends,  as  well  as  those  which  have  dropped  out, 
can  also  be  readily  detected  by  the  empty  dents  at  the  cross  reed. 

When  such  droppage  occurs,  the  ends  should  be  passed  through 
the  proper  dents  and  then  fastened  to  the  ends  on  the  carriage 
wire  made  for  that  purpose.  The  missing  ends  should  be  traced 
through  the  space  reed  and  the  section  separated  with  the  small 
wooden  pins  that  are  placed  on  the  carriage  for  this  use.  The 
next  step  is  to  wind  the  section  on  the  hand  and  at  the  same  time 
it  should  be  pulled  back.  This  operation  should  be  repeated  until 
the  missing  ends  are  found.  The  broken  ends  should  then  be 
tied  together  and  slowly  run  back  with  the  section.  Great  care 
should  be  taken  in  this  operation  as  well  as  in  the  notation  of  the 
cut  marks. 

If  at  any  time  the  section  should  be  run  past  the  marks,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  carefully  pull  it  back  through  the  space  reed.  The 


34  WARPING  PROCESSES 

section  should  be  wound  upon  the  arm,  or  a  large  bobbin,  until  the 
marking  place  appears.  The  cut  marks  should  then  be  put  in 
their  proper  places  and  the  section  run  back  upon  the  reel.  In  case 
the  section  should  happen  to  run  past  the  cut-off  mark  it  will  be 
quite  necessary  to  make  two  sets  of  crosses  and  to  have  the  sec- 
tion pulled  through  the  cross  bars  and  reed.  When  the  section 
is  so  run  back,  and  reaches  the  required  cut-off  place,  the  lease  cord 
should  be  passed  in  the  crosses,  the  section  cut,  and  a  knot  tied 
in  both  ends.  The  ends  should  be  secured  by  looping  the  knotted 
ends  through  the  finished  section.  After  the  dial  is  set,  the  end 
of  the  section  remaining  on  the  arm  should  be  hooked  on  the  pin; 
the  lease  cord  should  then  be  put  through  the  crosses  and  the  sec- 
tion may  be  run  off  the  arm  and  onto  the  reel.  Accurate  manipu- 
lation in  this  operation  is  assured  if  the  operative  has  proper 
assistance. 

The  first  and  second  sections  should  be  run  very  slowly,  for 
the  very  good  reason  that  the  operative  has  to  contend  with  many 
important  and  distinct  operations.  The  skilled  operative  will 
pick  the  large  lumps,  knotted  waste,  soft  and  split  ends,  "  cater- 
pillars," "  sleepers/'  double  ends,  and  other  imperfections  from  the 
warp.  It  is  usually  the  case  that  when  bobbins  are  full  they  do 
not  run  very  smoothly  at  the  start.  Then  there  are  times  when 
the  warp  requires  more  than  one  cross  at  each  end,  although  usually 
one  cross  is  sufficient,  which  necessitates  the  watching  of  the  dial 
very  closely  so  that  the  reel  may  be  stopped  when  extra  cross  and 
cut  marks  are  to  be  made.  When  the  section  is  completed  to  the 
last  yard,  a  lease  cord  and  a  cross  should  be  secured  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  first  cross.  The  reel  should  then  be  moved  to  the 
cut-off  marks  and  the  section  cut  off.  A  knot  should  be  tied  in 
both  ends  of  the  section  leaving  knotted  ends  about  2  inches  in 
length.  The  section  may  now  be  fastened  by  pushing  half  of  the 
knotted  ends  through  it,  for,  by  this  operation,  the  other  half  of 
the  ends  will  remain  on  the  outside  of  the  section. 

The  Second  Section  of  the  Warp     % 

When  the  first  section  is  finished,  the  width  should  be  measured 
before  the  second  section  is  commenced.  Having  found  the  width 


THE  SECOND  SECTION  OF  THE  WARP  35 

of  the  section,  the  compass  or  ruler  should  be  used  to  space  the 
width  of  the  warp  according  to  the  number  of  sections  required. 
If  this  calculation  proves  correct  the  operative  may  continue 
making  the  warp,  but,  if  it  is  incorrect,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
change  again  the  reeding  of  the  section  in  the  space  reed,  so  that 
the  correct  width  of  the  warp  may  be  arrived  at. 

The  mark  of  the  next  section,  which  should  be  the  width  of 
the  section  on  the  sliding  board,  is  next  placed  beside  the  carriage, 
which,  in  turn,  is  moved  to  the  new  mark.  A  compass  has  proved 
to  have  been,  by  long  years  of  experience,  a  very  handy  adjunct 
for  this  space  work.  The  cross  being  made  and  the  dial  set,  work 
may  proceed  on  the  section.  When  this  section  is  finished,  if,  by 
chance,  the  sections  are  too  close  together,  they  should  be  sepa- 
rated by  running  a  pointed  bone  pick  between  them.  If  the  work 
so  far  accomplished  is  satisfactory  in  every  detail,  work  on  the 
balance  of  the  warp  may  be  proceeded  with  until  it  is  completed 
and  on  the  reel. 

Some  unskilled  operatives  have  the  bad  habit  of  leaving  a  small 
space  between  each  section  when  engaged  in  the  setting  operation. 
To  cover  the  space,  this  class  of  operatives  adopts  the  questionable 
practice  of  pushing  and  sliding  together  the  ends  as  they  are  wound 
and  finished  on  the  reel.  It  cannot  be  urged  too  strongly  that  this 
is  the  wrong  method  to  pursue,  for  all  kinds  of  warps.  It  injures 
the  silk,  causes  the  ends  to  roll  and  twist,  and  thus  disturbs  the 
whole  section.  Again,  when  beaming  the  warp,  the  sections  are 
often  not  sufficiently  closed.  To  cover  this  bad  workmanship, 
the  operative,  in  his  efforts  to  bring  these  sections  together,  usually 
adopts  the  very  bad  system  of  hammering  and  pounding  the  warp 
with  the  fists.  Such  methods  should  never  be  used  by  the  efficient 
operative.  It  is  far  better  to  have  the  sections  a  trifle  too  close, 
and  separate  them  by  running  the  picking  bone  between  the  sec- 
tions, which  should  be  placed  as  near  as  possible  to  their  correct 
mark.  When  heavy  and  long  warps  are  being  constructed  with 
the  use  of  coarse  size  yarns,  such  spaces,  as  referred  to  above, 
often  occur,  but  almost  invariably  these  defects  can  be  charged  to 
inferior  workmanship. 

In  case  there  is  any  danger  of  the  warp  becoming  too  wide  by 
cutting  down  into  many  sections  (due  to  working  with  a  scant  lot 


36 


WARPING  PROCESSES 


of  material  and  with  a  small  number  of  bobbins),  it  would  be  well 
to  plan  it  out  before  reeding,  and  to  have  the  space  reed  stitched 
narrower  than  would  be  done  for  a  full  creel  and  a  greater  number 
of  bobbins.  If  this  course  is  carefully  pursued,  it  will  not  be  neces- 
sary to  push,  slide,  nor  pound  the  sections  together,  providing 
good  judgment  is  used  regarding  the  proper  tension  weights  and 
the  amount  of  beaming  paper  that  is  required  when  beaming  the 
warp.  To  overcome  these  difficulties,  I  would  strongly  advise 
the  use  of  the  Swiss  motion  machine. 


^ 

!••    ?\ 

'  //v'y^  *•'-'-  '---          *&r** 

W^0*Mik     \  \ 

Mr   i^ 


^L    I 


Li. 


FIG.  9. — Horizontal  Warper  with  Swiss  Attachment  and  Elevation  Irons. 

Beaming  Warps 

When  the  warp  is  completed,  the  lease  cords  should  be  cut  from 
the  reel  and  a  knot  tied  on  each  end  of  them.  The  reel  should 
then  be  turned  until  the  knots  of  the  sections  face  the  beaming 
attachments.  The  beam  should  be  lifted  into  its  place  and  the 
reel  steadied  by  the  emplacement  of  one  tension  strap.  Next,  the 
beam  apron  and  rod,  which  are  attached  to  the  beam,  should  be 


BEAMING  WARPS  37 

held  firmly  by  the  operative  and  the  work  commenced  of  tying  the 
section  to  the  apron  so  that  all  will  be  in  readiness  to  wind  the  warp 
upon  the  beam.  The  warp  may  be  tightened  on  the  beam  by 
slightly  turning  the  pulley  with  the  hand.  When  the  warp  is 
ready  to  be  beamed,  a  sheet  of  beaming  paper  should  invariably 
be  placed  on  the  beam  under  the  warp. 

It  often  so  happens  that,  during  the  operation  of  tying  the 
sections  on  the  apron  of  the  beam,  they  have  a  tendency  to  open 
and  spread  apart.  To  remedy  this  defect  the  first  necesssry  oper- 
ation is  to  move  the  sections  back  to  their  original  position;  this 
being  accomplished,  a  sheet  of  beaming  paper  that  has  been  tightly 
rolled  should  be  held  high  on  the  open  sections  by  the  operative. 
The  beaming  operation  is  then  continued  with  the  roll  of  paper 
resting  on  the  warp  so  that  it  is  carried  down  to  the  beam,  the  roll 
of  paper  being  then  drawn  up  to  the  place  from  whence  the  opera- 
tion was  started.  This  operation  should  be  repeated  until  the 
sections  are  closed  and  in  their  original  positions. 

For  the  emplacement  of  piecing  bobbins,  which  are  used  for 
tying  the  lost  and  broken  ends  in  beaming  operations,  a  rod  or 
pin  rail  should  be  placed  across  the  warp  and  beam. 

The  beaming  of  the  warp  should  then  be  continued  very  slowly, 
one  or  two  turns  around  the  beam  and  paper  being  sufficient,  the 
treadle  being  used  to  start  the  operation.  The  second  tension 
strap,  with  weights  enough  to  tightly  beam  the  warp,  is  then 
put  on. 

Attention  is  called  at  this  point  to  the  fact  that  the  successful 
carrying  out  of  this  operation  depends  upon  the  nature  of  the  warp, 
and  as  warps  are  constructed  of  many  different  sizes  of  yarns,  and 
contain  a  varying  number  of  ends,  good  judgment  is  needed. 

Another  point  is  that,  when  the  operative  is  beaming  a  warp, 
if  there  is  any  slackness,  it  should  be  immediately  remedied,  as  in 
such  a  case  the  warp  will  sag  and  beam  loose  on  the  edges.  On  the 
other  hand  if  the  warp  beams  too  tight  a  number  of  ends  will 
surely  break  from  it.  These  defects  may  be  obviated  in  either 
case  by  the  addition  of  weights  or  the  removal  of  same  from  the 
tension  straps. 

The  careful  operative  invariably  attaches  to  the  machine  a 
sheet  of  cloth  or  paper,  which  may  be  either  white  or  black,  be- 


38  WARPING  PROCESSES 

tween  the  warp  and  beam,  which  gives  an  excellent  background 
when  she  is  engaged  in  picking  and  cleaning  the  warp  threads. 
When  the  warp  is  nearing  completion,  great  care  should  be  taken 
to  note  the  short  ends.  If  such  be  prevalent  they  should  be 
broken  about  a  half  yard  or  so  from  the  cross  and  tied  to  the 
piecing  bobbins,  after  which  the  beaming  operation  may  be  suc- 
cessfully continued.  Short  ends  should  be  found  and  pieced  out. 
If  long  ends  and  "  ringers  "  are  encountered  they  should  be  broken 
and  tied  in  their  respective  places  at  the  cross.  After  all  the  short 
and  long  ends  are  tied,  the  reel  should  be  turned  slowly  and  care- 
fully to  the  end  of  the  warp.  The  sections  should  be  taken  from  the 
pins,  grouped  together  and  tied  with  a  slip  knot,  and  wound  on 
the  beam.  The  warping  beam  should  be  carefully  wrapped  in 
paper  and  fastened  at  each  end  and  in  the  center.  The  required 
piecing  bobbins  should  be  attached  to  the  outside  of  the  wrapped 
beam  so  that,  when  delivered  to  the  loom,  the  warp  will  be  com- 
plete in  every  detail. 

To  Make  Disposition  Warps,  Fancy  Stripes,  and  Ombres,  on  the 
Horizontal  Machine  Without  Using  Swiss  Motion 

In  the  first  place,  a  beginner  should  not  undertake  the  con- 
struction of  any  description  of  disposition  warp,  as  a  wide  and 
varied  experience  is  absolutely  necessary  for  this  class  of  work, 
therefore,  a  careful  study  of  the  following  remarks  on  this  branch 
of  warping  is  recommended  to  the  beginner.  Skilled  operatives 
thoroughly  understand  that,  when  a  disposition  warp  is  in  the 
loom,  the  disposition  and  pattern  is  read  from  left  to  right,  facing 
the  lay  and  reed  of  the  loom.  But,  when  banking  and  tying  up 
for  a  warp  on  the  creel,  the  disposition  is  read  backwards,  facing 
the  front  of  the  creel. 

In  this  operation,  the  first  bobbin  and  end  is  placed  on  the  lower 
right-hand  bobbin  pin,  which,  in  turn,  will  be  the  last  end  of  the 
warp  when  it  is  completed  for  the  loom.  The  operative  should 
continue  to  bank  up  toward  the  left  side  of  the  creel,  reading  and 
making  the  warp  backwards.  After  the  creel  is  banked,  and  the 
ends  reeded  and  properly  crossed,  the  first  section  should  be  placed 
on  the  right  side  of  the  reel,  facing  it.  If  the  pattern  requires  as 


PROPER  NUMBER  OF  BOBBINS  39 

many  ends  as  can  be  banked  on  the  creel,  or  if  the  sections  can  be 
completed  without  reversing,  or  if  it  is  possible  to  reverse  the  reed 
so  that  it  is  bottom  side  up  for  every  other  section,  and  if  again  the 
warp  can  be  run  in  this  manner,  the  sections  can  be  placed  next  to 
each  other,  which  operation  can  be  continued  indefinitely. 

It  will  be  readily  seen  that  this  construction  is  similar  to  that 
applied  in  making  a  plain  warp,  but  if  the  warp  to  be  constructed 
demands  a  number  of  spaces,  the  first  part  of  the  pattern  should 
be  banked,  tied  and  wound  on  the  reel,  after  which  the  width  of 
that  particular  part  of  the  section  should  be  measured  and  spaced 
on  the  reel  as  many  times  as  it  will  repeat  in  the  pattern  of  the 
warp.  After  the  first  section  is  completed  on  the  reel,  the  long 
lease  cord  should  not  be  used  for  the  cross  in  the  following  section, 
a  separate  cord  being  used  for  each  separate  cross. 

After  the  first  part  of  the  space  warped  is  on  the  reel  and 
complete,  the  next  parts  of  the  pattern  should  be  banked  and  tied, 
and  then  placed  in  the  spaces  planned  for  them.  After  the  warp 
is  built  on  the  reel  and  beamed  off  to  the  cross,  a  long  lease  cord 
should  be  passed  through  all  the  sections  before  the  small  separate 
cross  cords  are  cut  out.  This  method  is  also  applied  to  the  first 
cross  in  the  warp,  if  so  required. 

Proper  Number  of  Bobbins  to  Wind  for  a  Warp 

In  preparing  a  warp,  an  important  point  to  be  kept  in  mind 
is  the  winding  of  the  yarn  on  just  the  proper  number  of  bobbins 
that  will  best  suit  the  requirements  of  work,  which  knowledge 
enables  the  operative  to  finish  the  warp  in  the  shortest  possible 
time.  The  ability  to  do  this  handily  forms  part  of  the  equipment 
of  the  skilled  operative  and  is  only  acquired  by  a  long  and  varied 
experience  in  the  warping  branch.  The  busy  mill  owner  must 
necessarily  depend  on  the  judgment  of  such  operative  and  gener- 
ally does  so. 

To  make  this  entirely  plain,  we  will  take  an  example.  For 
instance,  should  the  bank  or  creel  contain  600  bobbin  pins,  it  is, 
of  course,  the  best  and  quickest  way  for  the  operative  to  have 
what  is  termed  "  a  full  bank,"  and  so  keep  repeating  right  along 
with  the  use  of  these  600  bobbins  and  ends  until  the  desired  num- 


40  WARPING  PROCESSES 

ber  has  been  obtained  for  the  warp.  This  method  answers  admir- 
ably in  cases  where  there  is  an  unlimited  supply  of  yarn  with  which 
to  work,  and  as  is  usually  the  case  in  mills  where  one  color  warps, 
for  large  orders,  are  principally  used.  But  when  the  operative  is 
called  upon  to  use  a  variety  of  colors,  in  constructing  a  warp  for 
fancy  fabrics,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  arrange  to  have  a  single 
skein  divided  among  a  number  of  bobbins,  so  that  the  operative's 
bank  or  creel  may  be  kept  as  full  as  possible,  and  at  the  same  time 
be  of  sufficient  length  to  run  out  the  warps.  No  hard  and  fast 
rule  can  be  laid  down  for  the  best  course  to  pursue  in  the  opera- 
tion just  touched  on,  as  each  mill  requires  different  methods  and 
so  the  matter  once  more  becomes  a  question  of  experience  and 
judgment. 

The  warper  foreman  should  see  to  it,  very  carefully,  that  the 
proper  number  of  bobbins  is  wound  for  the  work  in  hand,  for 
carelessness  in  this  respect  may  cause  the  loss  of  many  hours  of 
time.  Towards  the  end  of  the  work  on  a  warp,  when  the  bobbins 
are  running  out,  it  becomes  necessary  to  reduce,  or  cut  down,  the 
number  of  bobbins,  as,  otherwise,  ends  will  be  running  out  every- 
where, and  great  trouble  and  loss  of  time  will  result.  The  yarn 
from  these  almost  empty  bobbins  will  often  have  to  be  back- 
wound,  or  concentrated,  on  a  smaller  number,  so  as  to  give  suf- 
ficient length  to  finish  the  warp.  In  doing  this,  it  should  be  seen 
that  the  proper  number  of  bobbins  is  kept  out  for  piecing,  and  for 
tying  any  other  threads  that  may  run  out  before  the  section  is 
completed.  Threads  that  are  carelessly  allowed  to  run  out,  and 
which  are  found  missing  when  beaming  the  warp,  have  then  to  be 
replaced,  with  not  only  the  attendant  trouble  and  loss  of  time, 
but,  also,  these  threads  will  have  a  different  tension,  and  so  may 
make  streakiness  in  the  warp. 

Making  Warps  on  the  Horizontal,  or  All-Swiss  Motion  Machines 

It  should  be  kept  in  mind  that  all  warps  are  made  and  started 
by  banking  and  tying  upon  the  left-hand  top-corner  pin  facing  the 
creel,  and  working  towards  the  right  of  the  creel,  reading  the  order 
or  disposition  from  the  beginning  as  it  develops.  When  the  creel 
is  banked  and  the  section  ends  placed  in  the  reed,  the  elevation 


ADVANTAGE  OF  THE  HORIZONTAL  MACHINE  41 

irons  should  be  set  and  regulated  to  the  height  required  for  the 
warp.  After  the  irons  are  elevated,  the  dial  set  for  the  length  of 
the  warp,  and  everything  in  readiness  to  start,  the  first  section 
should  be  placed  on  the  left  side  of  the  reel,  facing  it,  and  at  the 
lowest  point  of  the  elevation  irons. 

It  should  be  understood  that  very  light  (weight)  and  short 
warps  do  not  require  the  use  of  the  elevation  irons,  but  it  is  entirely 
different  when  making  heavy  (weight)  and  long  warps,  as  these 
cannot  be  made  perfectly  without  the  proper  regulating  and 
setting  of  the  elevation  irons. 

Every  revolution  of  the  reel  will  then  cause  the  worm  screw  to 
move  the  carriage,  so  as  to  wind  and  traverse  the  section  to  the  left 
on  the  elevation  irons  when  the  machine  is  in  motion.  The 
longer  the  sections  the  more  they  will  spread  on  the  elevation  irons, 
and,  in  due  course,  the  sections  following  will  traverse  and  spread 
each  over  the  other.  This  treatment  will  give  the  warp  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  built  higher  on  one  side  than  on  the  other; 
but  when  the  warp  is  completed  on  the  reel  it  will  be  level  across 
the  width,  and  will  taper  at  the  finished  side.  The  beaming  device 
should  be  so  arranged  as  to  correctly  traverse  the  warp  back  to 
the  center  of  the  beam. 

The  Advantage  of  the  Horizontal  Plain  Direct  Warping  Machine 
Over  the  Horizontal  Swiss  Motion  Machine 

The  advantages  obtained  with  the  nse  of  the  horizontal  direct- 
warping  machine  depend  largely  upon  the  circumstances  under 
which  the  warp  is  to  be  constructed.  To  become  a  skilled  opera- 
tive in  this  branch  of  warping,  long  experience  and  good  judgment 
are  essential.  It  is  not  to  be  expected  that  all  kinds  of  warps  can 
be  perfectly  made  on  the  horizontal  plain  machine.  A  warp 
calling  for  a  yarn  of  fine  size  or  count,  with  not  too  great  a  number 
of  ends  to  the  inch,  and  a  limited  length  of  yardage  (in  fact,  all 
light  warps),  can  be  made,  perhaps,  more  perfectly  and  certainly 
more  easily  on  the  horizontal  machine  than  on  that  with  the  Swiss- 
motion  attachment.  The  same  rule  applies  also  to  warps  con- 
structed with  the  use  of  coarse  yarns.  Disposition  warps  are  read 
and  banked  on  the  creel  in  direct  reverse  to  methods  used  with  the 


42  WARPING  PROCESSES 

Swiss  motion  machine.  This  often  proves  advantageous,  as  the 
sections  can  be  spaced  off  and  placed  on  the  creel  as  desired  by 
the  operative,  which  means  a  saving  of  considerable  time  in  tying 
up  the  ends. 

Much  unnecessary  time  is  consumed  in  tying  up  ends  for 
repeated  sections  on  a  machine  with  the  Swiss  motion.  The 
operative  should  face  the  reel  as  the  warp  is  wound  on  the  reel  and 
when  the  cross  is  made,  the  lease  cords  should  be  drawn  towards 
the  operative.  The  clock  dial  is  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  oper- 
ative in  plain  sight  and  so  gives  no  excuse  for  time  wastage  or 
mistakes. 

It  is  certainly  unreasonable  to  expect  the  operatives  to  under- 
take the  construction  of  extraordinarily  long  and  heavy  warps  and 
erpect  them  to  turn  out  perfect  work,  as  only  a  limited  length  of 
warp  and  weight  can  be  perfectly  made  without  section  marks, 
and  skilled  operatives  must  use  good  sound  judgment  to  avoid 
such  defects.  It  can  be  readily  seen  that  the  longer  a  heavy  warp 
is  made,  the  higher  it  will  pile  up,  thereby  making  the  section 
curved  instead  of  lying  flat.  Naturally,  the  ends  of  the  side  of 
the  section  are  much  shorter  and,  therefore,  are  bound  to  beam  off 
tight,  thus  stretching  them  out  of  their  natural  size,  and,  as  the 
ends  in  the  center  are  more  or  less  slack,  section  marks  in  the 
woven  fabrics  are  often  the  result  of  this  defective  work. 

Miscalculations  are  easily  made  in  constructing  a  warp  of  this 
description,  especially  when  the  limit  of  the  length,  weight,  and 
width  of  the  warp,  and  the  size  of  the  material,  are  overlooked. 
Fabrics  woven  from  warps  of  this  description  are  subject  to  section 
marks,  tight  and  loose  ends,  and  other  defects.  One  convincing 
proof  is  the  comparison  of  a  2-  or  3-yard  reel  with  an  8-  or  10- 
yard  reel  and  the  construction  of  the  same  kind  of  warp  upon 
both.  Another  is  to  unwind  a  few  yards  of  a  heavy  warp  that 
has  been  made  on  a  plain  and  straight-motion  warp  machine 
with  light-tension  weight.  It  will  then  be  readily  seen  that  on 
one  side  of  the  warp,  or  between  each  one  of  its  sections,  there  will 
be  a  tendency  to  slide  or  slacken,  a  condition  which  should  not 
exist  in  a  perfectly  made  warp. 


SOME  OF  THE  ADVANTAGES  GAINED 


43 


Some  of  the  Advantages    Gained  on  the  Horizontal  with  the 
Swiss  Motion  Attachment 

Perfect  warps  can  be  made  with  the  use  of  Swiss  motion  ma- 
chines regardless  of  any  size  or  length,  although  it  must  be  said 
that  considerable  skill  and  judgment  is  necessary  to  achieve  such 
results.  All  disposition  and  plain  patterns  are  read  and  banked 


FIG.  10. — Empty  Horizontal  Warper  (without  Swiss  Attachment). 

from  the  beginning.  The  ends  are  banked  on  the  creel  from  the 
left  top  pin  working  towards  the  right  of  the  creel,  which  is  just 
the  reverse  of  the  workings  of  the  plain  horizontal  machine,  for 
fancy  patterns. 

The  sections,  when  placed  upon  the  reel,  move  from  left  to 
right,  and  this  traverse  movement  on  the  Swiss  machine  will 
overcome  all  lapped  sections  and  prevent  section  marks,  defects 


44  WARPING  PROCESSES 

largely  due  to  inaccurate  spacing  and  by  omitting  the  proper 
treatment  required  for  this  class  of  warping  when  accomplished 
on  the  plain  horizontal  machine.  It  is  not  necessary  to  go  into 
details  and  describe  a  variety  of  limited  warps  that  can  be  con- 
structed on  the  plain  horizontal  machine,  as  this  knowledge  is 
best  attained  by  experience  and  is  largely  governed  by  the  kind  of 
fabrics  to  be  woven  from  the  warp. 

Valuable  Points  in  Warping  Operations 

The  foreman  of  a  warping  room  should  never  give  verbal 
orders  to  the  operatives  under  him  for  the  construction  of  a  warp, 
as  such  a  course  very  often  leads  to  misunderstandings  which,  in 
turn,  bring  about  troublesome  and  costly  mistakes.  The  intricate 
and  necessary  details  met  with  in  warping  operations  fairly  de- 
mand that  all  orders  to  the  operatives  should  be  plainly  written. 
When  the  operative  is  given  the  warp  order  ticket  and  does  not 
seemingly  understand  the  details  called  for  in  the  making  of  the 
warp,  he  should  immediately  ask  the  foreman  to  make  these  points 
perfectly  clear,  otherwise  he  assumes  the  responsibility,  and  must 
account  for  mistakes  which  may  occur  in  his  work. 

Generally  speaking,  and  whenever  possible,  the  operatives 
should  obtain  all  orders  for  warps  in  writing,  to  avoid  useless 
arguments  and  disputes,  and  should  furthermore  insist  upon  being 
furnished  with  a  lot  ticket  with  each  lot  of  yarns  given  for  the 
work,  which,  in  turn,  should  be  checked  up  to  see  that  it  corre- 
sponds with  the  lot  number  of  the  warp  ticket  and  in  other  essential 
details. 

In  warping  operations,  when  changing  from  silk  to  cotton  or 
vice  versa,  the  operative  should  never  twist  or  tie  the  new  ends 
to  those  remaining  on  the  creel,  they  should  be  cut  out  and  reeded 
anew.  Otherwise,  trouble  is  bound  to  result,  as  the  ends  and 
knots  will  twist  and  tangle  and  break  out  when  drawn  through  the 
creel  reed. 

The  operative  should  never  attempt  to  work  with  slack  ends, 
as  it  is  impossible  to  accomplish  the  right  sort  of  work  without 
having  a  strong  tension  on  the  ends. 

Before  starting  to  build  the  warp  on  the  reel,  the  operative 


DISPOSITION  WARPS  45 

should  be  sure  that  all  bobbins  that  are  designed  to  go  into  the 
warp  are  in  their  proper  places  on  the  creel,  and  in  the  reeds  and 
cross. 

In  constructing  disposition  warps,  it  is  not  only  customary,  but 
advisable,  to  have  another  operative  assist  in  counting  the  ends  of 
each  color  and  checking  off,  so  as  to  ascertain  that  each  end  is 
correctly  placed. 

In  making  some  classes  of  warps,  it  is  a  dangerous  practice  to 
tie  up  full  bobbins  on  one  side  of  the  creel  and  place  partly  empty 
bobbins,  or  what  are  commonly  known  as  "skinners"  on  the  other 
side;  such  work  is  apt  to  cause  streaky  warps.  It  is  best  in  all 
cases  to  mix  the  bobbins  evenly  over  the  creel  and  on  both  sides. 
Then,  again  if  the  bobbins  are  wound  by  different  operatives,  with 
the  result  that  some  are  wound  hard  and  others  soft,  streaky 
warps  will  again  ensue,  especially  so  if  the  bobbins  are  not  properly 
mixed  on  the  creel. 

Disposition  Warps 

When  making  plain  or  disposition  warps,  the  operative  should 
always  use  an  even  number  of  ends,  providing  the  pattern  permits 
of  this  procedure.  If  an  odd  number  of  ends  are  used  the  cross 
must  be  taken  the  reverse  each  time ;  that  is  to  say,  the  first  sec- 
tion up  and  down,  and  the  next  section  down  and  up,  otherwise 
there  will  be  one  end  in  the  wrong  place  at  the  cross  and  so  re^ 
peated  in  every  section  of  the  warp.  These  are  commonly  called 
"  flats." 

Unfinished  Sections 

A  section  should  never  be  left  unfinished  by  the  operative  over 
night,  if  possible,  or  for  any  unnecessary  length  of  time  during  the 
day,  as  there  is  always  danger  of  the  ends  slackening  and  the 
vibration  of  the  mill  cutting  out  ends  at  the  reeds  both  of  which, 
happenings  invariably  cause  considerable  trouble  and  often  dam- 
age to  the  warp. 

Lost  Ends  in  the  Warp 

To  overcome  and  prevent  the  mishap  of  ends  unaccountably 
lost  in  the  warp,  occurrences  often  caused  by  a  single  end  not 
running  properly  with  the  rest  of  the  ends  (commonly  called 


46  WARPING  PROCESSES 

"  sleepers  ")>  or  should  the  first  and  last  ends  of  the  section  break 
or  run  out  and  not  be  noted  by  the  operative  in  time,  the  method 
of  rubbing  the  palm  of  the  hand  carefully  and  frequently  over  the 
section,  when  it  is  in  motion,  tends  to  dislodge  such  loose  ends 
and,  at  the  same  time,  gives  the  operative  a  better  opportunity  of 
watching  the  first  and  last  ends,  to  prevent  the  occurrence  of 
flats  and  lost  ends. 

The  Matter  of  Available  Yarns 

When  there  is  but  sufficient  yarn  on  hand  to  make  a  single 
warp,  entirely  different  methods  are  pursued  for  making  warps 
than  would  be  the  case  if  there  were  sufficient  yarns  to  make  sev- 
eral warps.  The  handling  largely  depends  upon  the  yarns,  yarn 
sizes,  number  of  ends  contained  in  the  warp,  and  the  length  of  the 
warp  to  be  made,  all  of  this  knowledge  being  necessary  to  ascer- 
tain the  number  of  bobbins  needed,  and  the  quantity  of  yarn 
needed  for  winding  operations,  which  knowledge  of  requirements 
will  greatly  minimize  the  reducing  of  the  ends. 

When  it  becomes  necessary  to  reduce  the  number  of  bobbins, 
care  should  be  taken  by  the  operative  to  maintain  an  even  number 
of  ends  and  still  have  enough  to  tie  in  place  of  those  which  run  out 
in  the  next  section.  If  by  chance  the  bobbins  should  run  out, 
leaving  none  to  tie  in  their  place,  the  yarn  on  several  of  the  fullest 
bobbins  should  be  transferred  to  others  in  order  to  obtain  enough 
bobbins  to  finish  the  section.  This  operation  may  be  repeated 
until  the  warp  is  completed. 

The  Creel 

There  are  many  different  styles  and  makes  of  warp  creels. 
This  is  evidently  due  to  the  number  of  kinds  of  fabrics  manufac- 
tured and  a  proper  selection  is,  therefore,  a  very  important  con- 
sideration in  the  matter  of  warping.  The  most  objectionable 
feature  about  most  creels  is  their  clumsy  construction.  The 
wooden  rails  running  crosswise  on  some  hide  several  rows  of  bob- 
bins, and  the  failure  to  see  these  many  times  causes  the  ends  to 
run  out  without  being  noticed.  Yarn  is  wasted  and  smashes 
occur,  in  addition  to  which,  time  is  lost.  The  writer  has  had 


THE  CREEL  47 

considerable  experience  with  this  trouble,  and  earnestly  advises 
all  mill  men  in  similar  positions  to  adopt  his  policy  of  using  the  so- 
called  pipe  creel.  This  is  constructed  of  an  all-iron  straight  frame 
of  the  required  size,  from  300  to  600  pins,  standing  upright  on 
rollers  and  portable.  All  bobbin  pins  are  1J  inch  longer  than  the 
bobbin,  and  every  pin  is  furnished  with  resistant  porcelain  but- 
tons. With  this  style  of  creel  every  bobbin  can  be  seen  plainly. 
This  is  a  very  important  factor  in  high-speed  warping,  as  ends  or 
bobbins  may  run  off  when  in  motion.  It  is  also  an  advantage  to 
have  the  number  of  bobbin  pins  stamped  in  plain  figures  on  the 
creel  reed  frame  at  the  top  of  each  row,  and  carried  out  to  the  full 
number  of  pins  on  the  entire  creel.  This  is  an  advantage,  too,  in 
saving  time  and  lessening  the  liability  of  mistakes  in  counting 
bobbins,  as  the  number  of  bobbins  and  ends  required  will  always 
be  in  plain  sight. 

The  floor  space  a  creel  occupies  is  usually  too  small.  In  some 
cases  it  does  not  make  much  difference,  but,  as  a  rule,  it  is  poor 
policy  to  crowd  the  creels  too  close.  Neither  should  it  be  too  far 
from  the  cross  reed.  Either  fault  will  cause  defects.  If  the  creel 
stands  too  close,  the  friction  caused  by  the  rubbing  of  the  ends  on 
the  outside  reed  bars  of  the  creel,  and  on  the  reed  blades  of  the 
reed  at  the  same  time,  will  be  too  great;  on  the  other  hand, 
if  the  creel  is  too  far  away,  the  distance  will  be  too  great  for  the 
operative  to  see  the  ends  plainly,  and  time  will  be  lost  in  going 
back  and  forth  to  repair  the  ends  and  replace  the  bobbins. 

The  distance  of  a  creel  should  be  from  4j  to  6  feet  from  the 
cross  reed.  Naturally  the  space  varies  according  to  the  size  of 
the  creel.  The  more  bobbin  pins  there  are  on  a  creel,  the  wider 
and  higher  it  will  be;  the  wider  a  creel  is  and  the  narrower  the 
section  of  a  warp  is  to  be  made,  the  more  friction  there  will  be  on 
the  outside  ends  when  they  are  in  motion.  This  is  a  trifling  defect 
that  cannot  be  entirely  overcome,  owing  to  the  shape  of  the  sec- 
tion. The  fact  that  this  is  so  wide  at  the  creel  and  so  narrow  at  the 
cross  and  space  reeds,  causes  the  outside  ends  to  rub  against  the 
creel  reed  bars,  and  cross  and  space  reed  blades,  more  than  the 
ends  running  from  the  center  of  the  creel.  But  it  must  be  borne 
in  mind  that  for  this  reason  the  creel  should  be  moved  and  kept 
in  the  center  of  each  section  at  all  times.  If  the  creel  stands  con- 


48 


WARPING  PROCESSES 


siderably  more  on  one  side  than  the  other,  there  will  be  more  fric- 
tion on  one  side,  and  section  marks,  and  streaky  defects  in  some 
fabrics  of  delicate  plain  warp  effect,  can,  therefore,  be  traced  to 
too  much  rubbing  of  the  warp  ends  on  one  side  of  the  creel.  In 
such  cases,  if  the  warp  did  not  receive  the  proper  treatment,  or  if 
the  tension  weights  were  not  right,  nor  the  beaming  paper  prop- 
erly applied,  and  if  slack  and  tight  ends  appear  from  the  creel,  the 
use  of  proper  tension  weights  and  plenty  of  beaming  paper  will 
offset  these  defects  so  that  they  will  not  be  discovered.  The 


FIG.  11. — Four-hundred-pin  Bobbin  Creel. 

same  is  true  of  such  a  small  technical  point  as  a  bobbin  running 
almost  empty  on  one  side  of  the  creel  while  a  full  one  is  running 
on  the  other  side.  These  bobbins  will  pull  and  run  off  with  a 
different  tension,  but  this  is  only  a  trifling  defect  that  cannot  be 
overcome.  It  will  disappear  with  good  tight  beaming. 

For  some  classes  of  warping  it  is  not  necessary  to  be  too  exact 
in  the  matter  of  room  and  space.  The  creel  can  be  stationed  in 
one  place  and  not  moved,  provided  there  is  sufficient  space  to 
work  around  it  conveniently. 


THE  BRAKE  STRAP  49 

The  Difference  Between  a  Creel  Containing  a  Full  Set  of  Full 
Bobbins,  and  One  Containing  Partly  Full  Bobbins 

When  operations  are  commenced  by  the  operative  on  the  con- 
struction of  a  warp  with  a  creel  banked  with  a  full  set  of  full  bob- 
bins, very  often  the  bobbins  will  run  with  an  entirely  different 
tension  than  is  the  case  when  the  bobbins  are  only  partly  filled. 
In  some  cases  the  difference  is  so  great  that  it  causes  the  warp 
to  beam  off  slack  and  tighten  on  one  side.  To  overcome  this 
defect  in  beaming  operations  the  warp  should  be  treated  with 
special  care  by  the  operative.  Extra  weights,  beaming  paper,-  as 
well  as  special  strips  of  paper,  must  be  used  to  build  up  the 
slackness  so  as  to  keep  the  warp  running  even  on  the  beam  so 
that  when  finished  it  will  meet  weaving  requirements. 

Warps  which  are  not  completed  in  one  day  and  for  some  reason 
left  unfinished  for  a  day  or  so  or,  perhaps  longer,  are  usually  found 
slack  on  one  side  when  operations  are  resumed.  This  condition 
often  exists  in  warps  that  are  made  with  the  Swiss-motion  attach- 
ment. Very  often  the  elevation  irons  are  not  set  correctly  and  so 
bring  on  this  defect.  Rebeaming  the  warp  once  or  twice  has  a 
tendency  to  improve  and  remedy  these  conditions. 

The  Brake  Strap 

Brake  straps  are  not  furnished  with  the  machines,  but  the 
operative  should  always  be  furnished  with  this  device,  as  it  is 
impossible  to  properly  construct  warps  without  their  use.  They 
are  used  to  steady  and  control  the  reel  and  prevent  it  from  turning 
too  freely  when  the  section  is  pulled  back.  The  accepted  method 
of  attaching  a  brake  is  as  follows: 

A  thin  narrow  strap  or  rope,  long  enough  to  reach  from  the 
front  to  the  back  of  the  frame  of  the  warping  machine,  is  placed 
underneath  the  reel.  One  end  is  attached  to  the  frame  at  the 
point  nearest  the  beaming  device  and  the  other  end  is  passed  down 
and  underneath  the  reel,  in  a  position  about  2  inches  from  the 
ends  of  the  slats  of  the  reel,  to  the  front  part  of  the  frame  under- 
neath the  carriage  table.  A  screw  eye  is  fastened  underneath  the 
carriage  table  through  which  the  strap  or  rope  is  passed  and  a 


50  WARPING  PROCESSES 

weight,  sufficiently  heavy  for  the  purpose,  is  fastened  to  the  end 
of  the  strap  or  rope  so  that  the  required  tension  may  be  obtained 
to  hold  the  reel  in  place. 

The  Guard  String 

This  is  a  device  provided  by  attaching  a  strong  white  cord 
on  each  side  of  the  reed  frame  and  stretching  it  to  the  creel  frame 
on  each  side.  A  small  weight  is  placed  on  the  end  of  each  cord 
and  the  cords  should  be  long  enough  to  hang  over  the  creel  so 
that  they  can  slide  up  and  down  freely,  when  it  is  necessary  to 
move  the  creel. 

Bobbins  that  Spin  Off  the  Pins 

Should  the  bobbins  show  a  tendency  to  spin  off  the  bobbin 
pins  of  the  creel,  when  warping  operations  are  being  conducted 
at  fast  speed,  the  pins  should  be  oiled,  waste  that  has  been  oiled 
being  used  for  the  purpose.  An  oil  can  should  never  be  used  for 
this  purpose,  as  too  much  oil  may  be  so  dropped  onto  the  pins 
and  the  bobbins  soiled  beyond  future  use. 

New  Warp  Orders 

When  the  operative  receives  an  order  to  make  a  somewhat 
different  warp,  it  does  not  mean  that  the  ends  should  be  cut  from 
the  cross  reed,  as  such  a  course  is  entirely  unnecessary.  The  new 
ends  should  be  tied  to  the  old  ones,  and  if  there  is  no  change  in  the 
cross  reed  the  ends  may  be  simply  pulled  through.  In  case  there 
be  a  change  the  new  ends  will  have  to  be  reeded  anew. 

Different  Space  Reeding 

In  constructing  long  and  heavy  warps  on  the  plain  straight 
horizontal  machine,  the  reeding  operation  differs  somewhat  from 
that  used  in  constructing  lighter  warps.  The  knowledge  of  the 
proper  way  to  reed  such  warps  accurately  is  best  attained  after 
the  first  section  is  made,  as  much  depends  upon  how  much  this 
section  spreads. 


HAZARDOUS  FIGURING  51 


The  Construction  of  Warps  Containing  More  Ends  in  Pattern 
than  Pins  on  the  Creel 

In  constructing  a  warp  containing  more  ends  in  the  pattern 
than  pins  on  the  creel,  the  first  half  should  be  banked  and  wound 
on  the  reel.  The  second  half  of  the  pattern  should  be  reversed 
by  turning  the  spacing  reed  bottom  side  up,  providing  existent 
conditions  will  permit.  The  proper  accomplishment  of  such  a 
course  will  save  time  in  the  tying  up  of  the  bobbins  for  the  second 
half  of  the  pattern. 

The  operative  should  keep  well  in  mind  the  fact  that  the  cross 
must  be  made  the  reverse  way  of  the  previous  section,  as  the  first 
section  will  be  made  with  a  cross  first  up  and  then  down,  and  the 
next  section  will  have  to  be  made  first  down  and  then  up.  The 
second  half  of  the  section  will  run  through  the  space  reed  having  a 
half  turn.  This  operation  will  prove  to  be  a  trifle  difficult  to  the 
beginner,  but  with  patience  and  good  judgment  it  can  be  eventu- 
ally accomplished.  Again,  the  successful  accomplishment  of  this 
method  marks  the  skilled  operative  and  puts  him  in  a  class  by 
himself.  If  not  attempted  at  all,  the  loss  of  considerable  time  will 
result  in  the  tying  up  the  bobbins  and  spacing  the  second  half  of 
the  pattern. 

Hazardous  Figuring 

While  accuracy  is  demanded  in  practical  warping  operations, 
too  much  figuring  in  the  matter  of  the  quantity  of  yarns  to  be  used 
for  a  warp,  and  other  exactions  in  this  respect,  are  marks  of  poor 
management,  for  such  methods  stand  in  the  way  of  the  turning 
out  of  a  perfect  warp  on  the  part  of  the  operative.  In  other  words, 
paring  down  methods  in  ninety-nine  cases  out  of  a  hundred  pro- 
voke trouble.  The  department  head,  before  giving  his  orders  for 
the  warps  he  wishes  constructed,  should  make  sure  that  yarns  in 
sufficient  quantity  to  complete  the  warp  have  been  supplied  to  the 
operative,  and  particularly  so  when  warps  of  a  complicated  nature 
are  to  be  made. 

There  are  many  things  to  take  into  consideration  when  fig- 
uring a  warp  and  often  important  items  are  overlooked.  For 
instance,  even  if  a  suitable  amount  is  allowed,  it  very  often  occurs 


52  WARPING  PROCESSES 

that  sufficient  quantities  of  yarns  are  not  on  hand  or  have  not  been 
ordered.  The  blame  for  this  shortage  falls  wrongfully  on  those 
whose  work  it  is  to  handle  the  yarns,  and  so  dissatisfaction  is 
brought  about  which  could  easily  have  been  avoided  had  proper 
methods  been  pursued. 

In  calculating  the  quantity  of  yarns  it  takes  to  make  a  certain 
warp,  the  matter  of  the  difference  in  the  piling  up  of  the  warp  on 
the  reel  is  not  always  well  considered,  an  error  which  can  usually 
be  traced  to  the  order  clerk  who  lacks  experience  or  has  not  been 
properly  instructed  in  warping  details.  Naturally,  the  longer  and 
heavier  the  warp  under  construction  the  more  allowance  should  be 
made,  and  it  should  be  borne  well  in  mind  that  the  smaller  the  reel 
the  more  the  warp  will  pile  up.  When  making  lighter  and  shorter 
warps  the  difference  is  not  so  noticeable  as  in  the  case  of  the  heavier 
sorts. 

Very  often,  the  heavy  warps  pile  up  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
result  in  much  longer  warps  that  the  machine  is  set  for  or  the  order 
demands.  In  consequence,  as  there  has  been  no  allowance  made 
for  this  piling  up  tendency,  a  yarn  shortage  ensues  which  pre- 
vents the  completion  of  the  warp  and  operations  have  to  be  sus- 
pended until  additional  yarn  is  supplied.  Again,  there  is  no 
assurance  that  the  additional  yarn  supplied  will  be  the  exact 
shade  that  has  been  worked  in  the  warp,  and  a  color  difference  of 
this  kind  is  bound  to  result  in  imperfect  and  streaky  warps. 

Furthermore,  it  is  unwise  to  practice  too  much  economy  in 
yarn  cost,  as  warps  constructed  under  these  conditions  invariably 
have  to  be  worked  in  small  sections,  which,  in  turn,  brings  about 
objectionable  lapping  and  crossed  ends  which  interfere  with  per- 
fect weaving,  to  say  nothing  of  additional  labor,  time  and  cost. 
All  of  which  makes  plain  the  point  that  a  generous,  but  rational, 
yarn  allowance  in- warp  construction  brings  about  better  results 
in  the  long  run  than  a  niggardly  managerial  policy. 

Increased  Length  of  Warps,  Due  to  Increased  Circumference 

Warping  machines  are  not  so  perfected  as  to  deliver  the  exact 
yardage  for  which  they  are  set.  A  warp  of  4800  ends,  60/2 
cotton,  30  inches  wide,  was  made  on  a  Swiss-motion  warping 


CARELESS  METHODS  53 

machine,  with  the  use  of  the  elevation  irons,  on  what  is  known  as 
a  2  meter  reel,  the  circumference  of  which  was  found  to  measure 
85J  inches. 

The  dial  was  set  for  202  meters,  but  the  warp,  when  finished, 
measured  215  meters.  While  making  the  warp,  it  was  found  to 
make  93  revolutions  of  the  reel  before  reaching  this  mark.  By 
simple  calculation,  93  revolutions  of  85J  inches  each  would  make 
the  desired  length  of  202  meters,  the  dial  revolving  according  to 
the  revolutions  made  by  the  reel,  registering  accordingly.  But 
it  has  not  been  considered  that  with  every  turn  of  the  reel  the 
circumference  of  yarn  increases,  since  each  succeeding  round  laps 
over  the  preceding  one,  making  the  last  lap  of  the  section  consid- 
erably longer  than  the  first  (in  this  case  94  inches),  and  the  longer 
the  warp,  the  greater  the  difference  will  be  between  the  actual 
length  and  the  setting  of  the  dial.  The  size  of  the  material  and 
the  number  of  ends  in  the  warp  will  also  add  to  this  difference, 
since  the  coarser  the  material  and  the  greater  the  bulk,  the  sooner 
the  warp  will  pile  up,  making  each  revolution  enlarge  and  gain  in 
length  so  much  the  quicker.  The  reel,  in  the  above  case,  had  been 
adjusted  for  finer-sized  material  than  the  60/2  cotton  of  which  the 
warp  was  made. 

The  following  examples  show  the  actual  length  of  some  cotton 
warps  made  on  a  Swiss  machine  set  for  202  meters : 

Material.  Ends.  Width.  Actual  Length. 

100/2  cotton  3108  30  inches  206  meters 

80/2       "  4800  30     "  210       " 

60/2       "  4800  30     "  215       " 

The  size  of  the  reel  must  also  be  considered.  A  warp  made  on 
a  horizontal  machine,  for  instance,  being  a  larger  reel  (8  yards), 
will  not  require  as  many  revolutions  as  that  of  a  Swiss  machine, 
and,  therefore,  will  not  differ  as  much  in  length.  The  larger  the 
reel,  the  smaller  the  difference  gained  in  the  length  of  a  warp. 

Careless  Methods 

Much  can  be  said  on  this  point,  as  it  is,  perhaps,  the  most 
difficult  thing  to  contend  with  in  warping  operations.  The 
worst  trait  of  an  operative  is  inattention  to  the  work  in  hand, 


54  WARPING  PROCESSES 

which  usually  takes  the  form  of  engaging  in  conversation  with 
fellow  operatives,  thus  accomplishing  the  doubly  bad  result  of 
distracting  the  attention  of  the  latter  as  well  as  that  of  his  own, 
from  the  work  in  hand.  This  sort  of  thing  is  one  of  the  worst  of 
warping  room  evils  and  the  operatives  should  realize  (and,  in 
case  they  do  not,  should  be  made  to  realize)  that  close  attention 
to  their  work  is  absolutely  necessary  if  satisfactory  results  are  to 
be  obtained. 

Ends  must  be  carefully  and  continuously  watched  so  that  the 
necessary  picking  and  cleaning,  that  all  warps  require,  can  be 
properly  accomplished.  If  these  details  are  not  carefully  looked 
after,  ends  are  lost  and  left  out,  knots  and  lumps  get  into  the 
warps,  and  other  mishaps  are  liable  to  occur.  The  ordinary 
excuses  made  by  operatives,  when  called  to  task  for  careless  work 
in  this  respect,  are  not  usually  accepted  by  those  in  charge,  and 
rightly  so.  If  at  any  time  an  occasion  arises  when  the  warping 
operative  cannot  give  his  entire  attention  to  the  work  in  hand,  the 
best  thing  for  him  to  do  is  to  stop  the  machine,  and  so  minimize 
the  chance  of  defective  work. 

Strong  draughts  in  warping  rooms  are  to  be  avoided  if  it  is  pos- 
sible to  do  so,  for,  under  such  conditions,  when  the  ends  of  a  par- 
tially finished  warp  are  slackened  they  will  be  blown  about  so  that 
they  twist  and  snarl  around  the  pins  and  bobbins,  and,  when 
they  are  again  drawn  tight,  a  smash  is  often  the  result.  Draughts 
are  particularly  detrimental  to  the  construction  of  pure  dye  warps, 
as  silk  yarns  of  this  description  invariably  possess  fluffy  and 
scattering  tendencies. 

Memorandum  Book 

Warping  operatives  of  the  best  class  keep  records  of  all  the  warps 
they  construct,  embracing  all  details  and  these,  written,  in  a  mem- 
orandum book,  a  course  which  is  strongly  recommended  to  those 
taking  up  this  branch  of  silk  fabric  construction.  Some  opera- 
tives adopt  the  very  bad  plan  of  using  pieces  of  paper  for  mem- 
oranda of  their  work,  but,  as  these  are  easily  lost  or  destroyed, 
their  records  are  incomplete,  and  many  invaluable  points  of  warp 
construction,  for  future  reference,  are  lost  to  them. 


THE  QUALITY  AND  QUANTITY  OF  BEAMING  PAPER      55 

A  well-kept  memorandum  book,  such  as  is  described,  is  inval- 
uable to  operatives  who  are  given  repeat  orders  on  certain  warps, 
saving  both  time  and  labor.  It  gives  an  opportunity  to  make 
complete  records  of  dispositions  and  cut-down  warps,  so  that,  if 
at  any  time  a  question  arises  concerning  the  details  of  some  par- 
ticular warp,  such  as  sections  and  ends,  the  previous  record  of  a 
similar  warp  is  at  the  elbow,  so  to  speak,  of  the  operative. 

A  simple  form  of  record  for  the  warping  memorandum  book  is 
presented  herewith.  For  example,  take  5376  ends.  The  proper 
way  to  handle  such  a  record  is  to  jot  down  the  ends  in  each  sec- 
tion as  it  is  completed.  The  sections  should,  of  course,  be  dif- 
ferentiated by  numbers. 


Date 

Warp  Number 

Disposition  Number 

Beams 

Color 

Stock 

Width.... 

Length 

Cut  Marks 

10  Sections— 300  ends =3000  ends 

10  "  —200  "  =2000  " 
3  «  __ioo  «  =  300  " 
1  Section  —  76  «  =  76  « 


Total 5376  ends 

The  Quality  and  Quantity  of  Beaming  Paper 

In  this  matter  opinions  often  differ  widely  regarding  the  quality 
of  paper  stock  that  should  best  be  used.  There  are  many  grades 
of  such  paper,  but  experience  has  taught  that,  in  the  long  run,  it 
pays  to  use  the  best  obtainable.  Good  judgment  is  demanded 
on  the  part  of  the  operative  to  make  use  of  sufficient  beaming 
paper  for  the  construction  of  the  warp.  The  heavier  the  warp 
the  more  required.  It  should  also  be  borne  in  mind  that  at  the 
commencement  of  a  warp  considerable  paper  is  required  and  the 


56  WARPING  PROCESSES 

quantity  is  gradually  lessened  as  the  operations  proceed  and  the 
warp  nears  its  completion. 

The  Duties  of  the  Order  Clerk 

In  recording  warp  orders  and  dispositions,  it  is  a  common  error 
on  the  part  of  order  clerks  to  use  abbreviations  and  numerals 
instead  of  writing  out  the  necessary  instructions  in  full  as  should 
invariably  be  done.  By  pursuing  this  bad  method  they  leave  the 
way  open  for  misunderstandings  and  mistakes.  Being  quite 
familiar  with  this  branch  of  the  work  they  find  it  much  simpler, 
and  certainly  quicker,  to  make  out  warp  orders  using  abbreviated 
terms.  An  order  of  this  description,  when  delivered  to  the  warp- 
ing department  may  not  be  understood  by  the  person  in  charge, 
which,  in  turn,  necessitates  the  seeking  out  of  the  order  clerk  in 
order  to  obtain  a  clear  understanding  of  what  is  required,  all  of 
which  consumes  time  and  can  easily  be  obviated  by  properly  filled 
out  order  forms. 

Again,  it  often  so  happens  that  the  order  ticket  is  misplaced 
by  the  operative,  in  which  case,  if  the  order  clerk  is  exact  in  his 
methods,  a  duplicate  order  can  be  immediately  issued  and  time 
saved.  Clearness  in  giving  instructions,  especially  in  case  of 
unfamiliar  and  complicated  warps,  is  one  of  the  prime  duties  of  the 
order  clerk  in  a  modern  warping  department.  Operatives  cannot 
be  held  responsible  for  mistakes  which  are  made  because  of  mis- 
directions. 

The  foreman,  who,  after  all,  is  the  one  who  should  be  held 
responsible  by  the  head,  if  the  warps  are  not  properly  constructed, 
should  make  it  his  business  to  demand  that  all  order  tickets  handed 
him  be  plainly,  completely  and  legibly  written.  A  good  point  for 
the  order  clerk  to  observe  is  that,  in  writing  orders  for  disposition 
warps,  it  is  a  far  better  practice  to  use  the  words  "  single,"  "  dou- 
ble "  or  "  triple,"  as  the  case  may  be  instead  of  using  numerals. 

Avoidable  Mistakes 

When  a  mistake  is  made  in  warping  operations,  and  remains 
undiscovered  until  the  warp  is  completed  or  partly  completed,  the 
operative  should  keep  his  head  and  make  every  effort  to  find  the 


SHORT  AND  LONG  SECTIONS  IN  WARPING  57 

proper  remedy  for  his  mishap.  Often,  mistakes  are  made  which 
are  very  difficult  to  surmount.  In  cases  of  this  sort,  experience 
and  good  judgment  are  very  necessary  attributes  for  the  operative 
to  possess.  However,  in  the  majority  of  cases,  mistakes  can  be 
remedied,  so  that,  at  the  worst,  the  warp  can  be  utilized  in  some 
way. 

Such  results  are  often  brought  about  by  the  addition  of  more 
yarn,  picking  a  different  cross,  and  the  utilization  of  the  hand- 
picking  frame  to  obtain  a  different  width.  Often  mistakes  can  be 
repaired  in  the  twisting  operation.  However,  a  great  deal  depends 
upon  the  nature  of  the  mistake,  the  different  contingencies  which 
arise  needing  different  handling.  In  many  cases,  means  can  be 
found  by  which  mistakes  in  warp  construction  can  be  remedied 
and  this,  perhaps,  with  slight,  or  no  extra  cost.  A  mistake  once 
made  should  be  thoroughly  investigated  by  the  person  in  charge 
before  the  blame  is  placed. 

Short  and  Long  Sections  in  Horizontal  Warping 

Two  of  the  most  dreaded  evils  of  warping  operations  are  what 
are  known  as  short  and  long  sections,  in  horizontal  warping,  and 
which  are  largely  due  to  carelessness  on  the  part  of  the  operative 
in  not  properly  setting  and  regulating  the  machine,  or  the  pre- 
mature cutting  off  of  sections. 

Warping  machines  are  made  with  a  measuring  device,  and  an 
indicator  also,  with  a  bell  attached.  The  bell  is  for  the  purpose 
of  giving  an  alarm  when  near  the  end,  before  cutting  off  a  section. 
The  bell  works  automatically  with  the  running  parts  of  the  ma- 
chine. Therefore,  if  the  indicator  is  set  properly  there  will  be  no 
danger  of  making  short  or  long  sections,  at  any  kind  of  warping. 
The  operatives  as  a  rule,  nine  times  out  of  ten,  blame  the  machine 
as  being  out  of  order  when  they  don't  understand  that  it  is  unin- 
tentionally their  own  fault,  when  they  have  made  short  or  long 
bands,  or  sections.  The  following  are  some  of  their  faults: 

1.  Usually,  after  planning  the  making  of  a  warp,  the  main 
cause  of  making  short  sections  is  that  the  operative  forgets  to  set 
the  measuring  indicator  properly  before  starting  to  wind  the  sec- 
tion on  the  reel. 


58  WARPING  PROCESSES 

2.  Cutting  a  section  off  before  the  indicator  rings  the  bell  for 
a  warning  to  stop  the  machine.. 

3.  Turning  the  reel  around  after  the  indicator  is  set  and  before 
the  section  is  hooked  on  the  reel. 

4.  If,  in  a  warping  room  where  there  are  a  number  of  warping 
machines  running,  the  operative  hears  the  bell  of  some  other 
machine  ring  and  thinks  it  is  at  the  machine  he  is  working  at, 
then,  without  thinking  or  investigating,  he  may  cut  off,  and,  by 
this  mistake,  leave  a  short  section. 

5.  By  the  operative  being  suddenly  interrupted,  or  his  atten- 
tion attracted  with  talking,  or  by  some  other  means,  when  he  may 
thoughtlessly  cut  off,  not  thinking  of  the  short  or  long  section  he 
may  be  making. 

6.  It  may  happen  that  ends  break  out  after  the  bell  rings  and 
then  the  machine  is  stopped,  which  is  right.     Then  the  operator 
repairs  the  broken  ends,  but,  without  thinking  of  cutting  off, 
starts  the  machine  running  again,  which  causes  a  long  section. 

The  repairing  of  one  or  more  long  sections  is  a  simple  operation, 
and  is  accomplished  by  first  cutting  the  lease  cord  and  then  beam- 
ing the  long  section  on  the  beam  with  the  balance  of  the  warp,  an 
operation  which  results  in  the  separating  of  the  long  section  or 
sections  from  the  others.  The  tension  weights  are  then  released, 
and  the  long  section  is  wound  on  the  beam  until  the  cross  is 
reached.  The  cross  rods  are  placed  in  the  long  section  which  is 
then  wound  back  on  the  reel  by  reversing  the  power  of  the  friction 
pulley  at  the  reel.  The  same  result  is  got  by  turning  the  reel  back 
with  the  hand,  and,  at  the  same  time,  carefully  turning  the  cross 
through  its  proper  place  in  the  warp,  which  operation  enables  the 
operative  to  cut  off  the  over-run  length  of  the  long  section,  or 
sections,  for  waste. 

A  short  section  is  more  difficult  to  repair  and  considerable 
study  should  be  given  to  the  situation  by  the  operative  so  that  he 
can  ascertain  the  best  and  easiest  way  to  go  about  the  work.  If 
there  are  enough  bobbins  remaining  on  the  creel,  corresponding 
with  the  number  of  ends  in  the  short  section,  repairs  can  be 
made  by  turning  the  reel  backwards,  loosening  the  warp  and  ten- 
sion weights,  and  removing  the  short  section  back  to  the  carriage. 
The  cross  is  then  secured  with  a  short  cord  and  the  short  section 


THE  MATTER  OF  WASTE  ON   BOBBINS  59 

can  be  separated  from  the  warp  proper.  The  operation  is  con- 
tinued by  placing  the  cross  rods  in  the  short  sections  which  are 
fastened  on  the  reel.  A  cross  is  made  in  the  section  that  is  to  be 
pieced  in  such  a  manner  as  to  bring  the  two  crosses  together  so 
that  each  end  can  be  tied  individually. 

In  some  cases,  it  is  not  advisable  to  adopt  this  course,  as  the 
section  can  be  more  conveniently  repaired  at  the  loom  by  making 
the  pieced  section  on  a  separate  beam.  In  other  cases  this  method 
does  not  pay  at  all,  for  it  may  so  turn  out  that,  by  simply  placing 
the  cross  rods  in  the  lease,  working  the  cross  back  so  that  it  meets 
with  the  cross  in  the  short  section,  and  tying  these  together,  the 
wasted  sections  may  be  cut  off,  which,  of  course,  are  figured  as  a 
loss. 

In  the  operation  of  Swiss  warping,  long  sections,  which  are  to 
be  repaired,  are  treated  about  in  the  same  manner,  but  in  the  case 
of  short  sections  the  warp  is  usually  cut  off  to  fit  the  short  section, 
which  reduces  the  loss  owing  to  the  smaller  reel  and  shorter  length. 

The  Matter  of  Waste  on  Bobbins 

Operatives  sometime  develop  the  bad  habit  of  removing  bob- 
bins from  the  creel  which  still  have  too  much  yarn  on  them  to  be 
so  wasted.  This  type  of  workman  will  bear  watching,  as  such 
methods  lead  to  the  accumulation  of  considerable  waste  in  a  very 
short  time.  The  practice  is,  perhaps,  largely  accounted  for  in 
the  running  out  of  many  bobbins  at  the  same  time,  which,  of  course, 
must  be  replaced  with  full  bobbins.  The  rule  should  be  rigidly 
adhered  to  that  the  yarn  on  all  the  bobbins  must  be  run  off  clean. 
If  this  be  done,  operatives  will  be  made  to  realize  the  costly  yarn 
waste  which  occurs  from  nothing  but  sheer  carelessness. 

Treadle  Strain 

Operatives  of  slight  physique,  when  using  the  tread  pedal  to 
run  the  horizontal  machine,  even  with  easily-running  yarns,  very 
often  find  that  the  operation  is  tiresome  and  more  or  less  of  a  mus- 
cular strain.  This  may  be  offset  by  the  use  of  a  stick  long  enough 
to  reach  from  under  the  carriage  table  to  the  lower  part  of  the 


60  WARPING  PROCESSES 

tread  pedal  when  it  is  pressed  down.    The  stick  may  then  be 
propped  under  the  carriage  table. 

Experienced  operatives  make  use  of  this  method  by  tying  a 
cord  to  the  upper  end  of  the  stick,  by  which  means  it  is  fastened 
under  the  table,  thus  placing  the  stick  within  handy  reach.  The 
stick  may  be  brought  into  use  by  pressing  the  pedal  down  with  the 
foot  so  that  it  may  be  adjusted  in  a  position  between  the  carriage 
table  and  pedal.  Slight  pressure  on  the  pedal  will  release  and  move 
the  stick,  causing  immediate  stoppage  to  the  machine.  The 
same  arrangement  can  be  applied  to  the  beaming  pedal  when  a 
warp  is  being  beamed. 

Inexperienced  Operatives 

Many  applicants  for  positions  in  warping  plants  claim  to  be 
experienced  operatives,  but  their  lack  of  skill  is  soon  ascertained 
when  they  are  placed  on  the  machines.  The  claim  that  they  are 
skilled  in  warping  operations  is  not  substantiated  by  results. 
However,  this  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  as  no  two  mills  in  the  warp- 
ing branch  of  the  industry  employ  the  same  methods.  Some 
applicants,  who  have  been  engaged  in  warping  operations  for 
years,  possess  but  the  rudimentary  knowledge  of  tying  up,  and 
the  starting  and  stoppage  of  the  machine,  which  limited  equip- 
ment, in  many  cases,  has  been  acquired  from  some  other  warping 
operative,  who,  in  turn,  possessed  but  a  limited  knowledge  of  the 
business  obtained  by  working  on  plain  simple  warps. 

Many  applicants  present  themselves  for  positions  as  warpers 
whose  experience  has  been  strictly  limited  to  plain  and  simple 
warps.  When  such  are  given  a  warp  to  construct,  possessing  un- 
familiar details,  it  generally  results  in  a  request  for  assistance  from 
other  operatives.  The  possession  of  good  rudimentary  knowledge, 
however,  sometimes  offsets  a  lack  of  experience  in  the  construc- 
tion of  more  complicated  warps.  An  operative  of  this  description 
can  be  easily  and  well  taught,  and  so,  in  time,  become  a  reliable 
workman.  The  ability  to  take  in  hand  and  construct  every  sort 
of  warp  used  in  the  weaving  end  of  the  industry  requires  an  expe- 
rience of  many  years,  and  such  warping  operatives  can  always 
find  positions. 


SAMPLE  WARPS  MADE  ON  THE  HORIZONTAL  MACHINE     61 

Sample  Warps  Made  on  the  Horizontal  Machine 

In  making  short  sample  warps  on  the  horizontal  machines,  the 
reel  of  which  possesses  no  special  arrangement  on  which  to  hook 
the  finished  section  ends,  temporary  wire  hooks  should  be  made 
and  utilized.  These  are  bent  and  fitted  so  that  they  will  clasp 
on  the  slat  of  the  warp  reel  nearest  to  the  length  of  warp  which  is  to 
be  constructed.  These  useful  makeshifts  can  easily  be  removed 
and  laid  aside  for  future  use. 

Ombre  Warps 

In  this  delicate  warping  operation,  the  best  plan  to  pursue  by 
the  foreman  is  to  give  but  one  color  at  a  time  to  the  operative  with 
careful  instructions  for  treatment,  repeating  this  method  for  each 
designated  color  until  the  warp  construction  is  completed.  The 
number  of  bobbins  required,  and  the  quantity  of  yarns  to  be 
wound  on  each  bobbin,  should  not  only  be  carefully  pointed  out  to 
the  operative  but  the  bobbins  for  each  shade  of  the  warp  should 
bear  a  distinguishing  mark  of  some  description.  In  some  estab- 
lishments the  color  number  is  plainly  marked  on  the  bobbin,  while 
others  make  use  of  gummed  labels  carrying  numbers.  The  use  of 
either  one  of  these  methods  eliminates  the  danger  of  the  mixing  of 
colors  in  the  building  of  this  exacting  class  of  warp. 

The  Handling  of  Swiss  Warping  Machines 

If  the  equipment  of  a  warping  department  or  warping  plant 
consists  only  of  the  regular  Swiss  machines,  the  best  course  to 
pursue  is  to  relegate  the  beaming  to  a  male  operative.  Many 
plants,  so  equipped,  also  make  use  of  the  services  of  an  assistant 
in  lifting  operations,  and  so  doing  away  with  the  beaming  of  the 
warps  on  the  part  of  the  operatives.  This  method  necessitates 
the  stoppage  of  the  warping  machine  during  beaming  operations, 
unless  spare  reels  have  been  provided,  which  should  always  be  the 
case.  In  small  plants,  if  there  is  not  sufficient  beaming  work  to 
keep  the  beamer  and  assistant  busy  during  the  working  day,  their 
services  can  be  made  use  of  in  various  other  ways  such  as  in  clean- 
ing up  and  keeping  the  department  or  mill  in  order,  repairing  and 


62  WARPING  PROCESSES 

oiling  machinery,  delivering  warps,  collecting  empty  beams,  and 
the  handling  and  distribution  of  beaming  paper. 

The  Beaming  Machine 

The  beaming  machine  is  a  device  in  itself  and  separate  from  the 
warping  machine  and  is  only  used  for  the  beaming  of  warps  that 
are  constructed  on  the  regular  Swiss  warping  machines,  and  then 
only  when  the  warp  is  completed.  When  finished,  the  reel  and 
warp  are  lifted  out  of  the  warping  machine  by  two  male  operatives, 
and  placed  by  them  in  the  beaming  machine.  The  beaming 
operative  centers  the  warp  so  that  it  fits  on  the  beam,  which 
operation  -is,  in  turn,  accomplished  by  turning  the  worm-screw 
supplied  for  the  purpose. 

One  end  of  a  cloth  apron  is  then  tacked  on  the  beam,  and  a  thin 
iron  rod  is  inserted  in  the  opposite  end  of  the  apron.  For  this 
purpose,  several  slits  or  holes  are  placed  in  the  end  of  the  apron 
where  the  rod  is  inserted,  being  so  placed  for  the  purpose  of  fasten- 
ing the  ends  of  the  sections  through  the  slits  so  that  they  can  be 
tied  to  the  rod,  and  used  for  the  operation  of  winding  the  warp 
on  the  beam.  As  the  warp  winds  from  the  reel,  sheets  of  beaming 
paper,  are,  from  time  to  time,  placed  on  the  beam  with  the  warp 
thus  winding  up  with  it,  so  that  the  latter  may  be  held  tightly  in 
place.  Heavy  and  long  warps,  fashioned  of  coarse  material,  can 
be  beamed  off  on  flange  beams  that  are  made  especially  for  this 
purpose.  It  is  hot  necessary  to  use  beaming  paper  for  this  class  of 
beam. 

The  details  of  the  various  operations  required  in  the  beaming 
of  the  different  warps  are  only  acquired  by  the  operative  after 
years  of  experience.  The  successful  workman  in  this  branch  must 
give  his  undivided  attention  to  his  task,  and  make  use  of  sound 
judgment  practically  every  minute  of  his  time.  This  is  especially 
so  when  the  warp  is  being  beamed,  for  a  constant  watch  must  be 
kept  on  the  rod  placed  between  the  reel  and  beam,  which,  in  turn, 
will  rise  should  there  be  any  threads  of  the  warp  which  catch  while 
beaming.  The  raising  of  the  rod  by  these  sticky  ends  is  a  warning 
to  the  operator  to  immediately  stop  the  machine  and  repair  the 
threads. 


THE  BEAMING  MACHINE 


63 


As  there  is  no  fixed  method  for  regulating  or  governing  the 
tension  straps,  the  operative  must  make  use  of  his  best  judgment 
and  skill  so  that  the  warp  is  not  beamed  too  loose  or  too  tight. 
His  attention  should  be  concentrated  on  the  warp  while  beaming 
until  the  operation  is  completed,  as  he  has  many  things  to  contend 
with,  such  as  "  wringers/'  or,  long  and  short  ends,  which  require 
skill  to  repair.  When  he  is  quite  satisfied  that  the  warp  is  beamed 


FIG.  12. — Swiss  Beaming  Machine,  and  Empty  Reel. 

correctly,  he  should  loosen  the  sections  from  the  reel  and  twist 
them  slightly  together  on  the  beam.  The  warp  should  then  be 
completely  wrapped  in  paper  and  corded  at  the  center  and  at  each 
end.  The  required  piecing  bobbins  are  attached,  and  the  warp 
is  thus  completed  and  is  now  ready  for  the  loom. 

Warping  with  a  Low  Grade  of  Silk 

In  a  mill  where  a  low  grade  of  silk  is  being  used  to  make  warps 
on  the  regular  Swiss  machine,  it  will  be  best  to  have  plenty  of 
space,  at  least  7  or  8  feet,  between  the  creel  and  cross  reed,  and 


64  WARPING  PROCESSES 

very  slow  speed,  running  from  10  to  14  yards  per  minute,  so  that 
the  picking,  cleaning  and  tying  of  the  knots  can  be  done  without 
stopping  the  machine.  This  requires  good  experienced  warper 
operatives,  and  an  assistant  who  is  learning. 

The  operative  must  have  considerable  patience  and  good  humor, 
and  also  possess  good  eyesight,  so  as  to  be  able  to  give  the  necessary 
attention  that  the  warp  needs  in  such  important  details  as  the 
picking  and  cleaning  of  all  imperfections  from  the  yarn,  and 
delivering  perfect  warps  to  the  loom,  so  that  there  will  be  no 
trouble  in  weaving  perfect  fabrics  so  far  as  warping  workmanship 
is  concerned. 

Picking  the  Warp 

In  this  operation,  the  warper  is  expected  to  remove  from  the 
warp  all  imperfections  of  a  sufficiently  serious  character  as  to 
cause  blemishes  to  appear  in  the  fabric  when  woven.  Such  defects 
will  be  slugs,  or  thick  lumps  in  the  yarn;  bad  winders'  knots, 
either  too  bulky,  or  with  long  ends;  split  ends,  where  the  warp 
threads  have  been  partly  cut  through;  very  coarse  ends,  or  doubled 
ends,  where  a  thread  is  grossly  thicker  than  the  average  of  the 
warp;  very  fine  ends,  where  the  thread  is  so  attenuated  that  it 
would  be  certain  to  break  down  in  the  weaving;  and,  in  general, 
all  imperfections  of  a  serious  character.  High-class  silk,  well 
thrown,  requires  but  little  picking,  whereas  with  poor  silk,  and 
poor  throwing,  the  labor  is  increased,  with  a  conesquent  increase 
in  the  time  taken  in  making  a  warp.  The  picking  requires  the 
closest  attention  on  the  part  of  the  operative,  coupled  with  great 
manual  dexterity,  and,  to  turn  out  a  perfect  warp,  much  skill  and 
good  judgment  must  here  be  used. 

The  methods  of  picking  the  warp  will  vary  according  to  the 
types  of  the  warping  machines  used.  In  Swiss  warping,  as  each 
section  slowly  winds  on  the  reel,  the  operative,  as  she  sees  the 
imperfections  traveling  down  the  threads  from  the  creel  to  the 
reel,  leans  over,  takes  the  thread  at  the  imperfect  place  between 
her  finger  and  thumb,  draws  the  thread  up  (the  bobbin  of  course 
giving  off  the  necessary  slack  yarn),  and  then  ties  a  knot  in  the 
doubled  or  looped  thread,  below  the  place  where  the  damage  is, 
clipping  off  neatly  with  her  scissors  the  loop  with  the  damaged 


PICKING  THE  WARP  65 

part  in.  She  then  drops  the  end,  the  movement  of  the  reel  immedi- 
ately straightening  out  the  thread.  If  the  warp  is  made  of  good, 
clean  material,  she  will  be  able  to  do  the  picking  without  stopping 
the  machine,  attending  to  each  imperfection  as  it  appears,  and 
making  her  knot,  and  clipping  off  while  the  threads  are  in  motion. 
If,  however,  the  imperfections  are  too  numerous  for  this,  she  will 
stop  the  movement  of  the  reel  by  pressing  her  foot  on  a  pedal, 
and  then,  after  cleaning  off  the  imperfections  that  are  before  her, 
will  start  the  reel  again  by  releasing  the  pedal.  It  is  astonishing 
how  clever  some  warpers  are,  and  the  rapidity  and  accuracy  with 
which  they  can  clean  a  warp  while  the  machine  is  in  motion,  and 
do  it  well.  The  cleaning  can  be  done  from  either  side  of  the  warp 
as  may  be  most  convenient,  and  the  picking  is  done  on  that 
expanse  of  warp  between  the  creel  reed  and  the  cross  reed.  Where 
very  little  cleaning  is  to  be  done,  the  reel  can  be  run  correspond- 
ingly faster. 

On  the  horizontal  warping  mills,  the  picking  is  done  during  the 
beaming  process,  where  the  entire  number  of  warp  threads  are  in 
view.  In  this  picking,  there  is  the  disadvantage  that  the  threads 
are  under  tension,  so  that,  when  an  imperfection  is  broken  out,  a 
length  of  piecing  yarn  must  be  used  and  two  knots  tied,  the  second 
knot  having  to  be  done  under  tension,  and  much  skill  is  required 
to  do  it  properly,  a  skill  by  no  means  always  shown.  In  this 
piecing-up  of  the  threads,  a  special  draw  knot  should  be  used  to 
avoid  leaving  slack  ends  in  the  warp.  Also,  where  the  threads  are 
thus  concentrated,  instead  of  being  spread  out  as  during  their 
passage  from  the  bobbins,  a  great  many  imperfections  are  liable 
to  be  buried  in  the  warp  and  not  seen,  turning  up  later  to  make 
trouble  for  the  weaver  and  to  cut  down  the  production  of  the 
loom. 

Another  method  in  picking,  and  one  which  has  much  to  com- 
mend it,  is  to  do  no  picking  at  all  in  the  warping  process,  it  being 
therefore,  practicable  to  run  the  warping  and  beaming  at  a 
higher  rate  of  speed.  After  the  warp  has  been  beamed,  it  is  then 
put  onto  a  carriage,  or  frame,  and  is  then  rebeamed  onto  another 
beam  mounted  on  another  frame,  or  carriage,  the  two  being  a 
short  distance  apart,  say,  8  to  10  feet.  One  of  these  beams  driven 
by  power,  winds  up  slowly,  the  other  one  giving  off  the  warp, 


66 


WARPING  PROCESSES 


and  the  operative  who  does  the  picking,  or  cleaning,  stands  beside 
it  and  carefully  removes  the  imperfections  from  the  warp  as  they 
come  into  view.  The  speed  will  be  as  slow  or  as  fast  as  is  war- 
ranted by  circumstances,  and,  as  there  is  no  compulsion  as  to  the 
tune  to  be  taken,  the  warp  can  in  this  way  be  cleaned  in  a  most 
thorough  manner.  In  cleaning  during  the  warping,  if  too  much 
time  is  taken,  the  warping  will  fall  behind  the  production  of  the 
looms,  whereas  this  separate  cleaning  permits  the  warping  machines 


FiQ.  13. — 1.  A  warp  ready  for  picking,  in  a  power  picking  frame.    2.  Fin- 
ished warps,  placed  in  an  iron  warp-rack. 


to  run  even  faster.  Also,  the  cost  is  not  greater,  and  really  is  less, 
for  the  cleaning  of  the  warp  must  be  done  anyhow,  and,  in  this 
separate  picking,  it  is  done  to  greater  advantage  than  at  the 
warping  mill,  and  every  imperfection  which  is  removed,  that 
otherwise  would  cause  a  thread  to  break  down  in  weaving,  in- 
creases the  loom  production  in  the  weaving  by  just  that  much. 
No  effort  or  expense  should  be  spared  to  make  the  warps  as  clean 
and  as  perfect  as  possible. 


DAMAGED  WARPING  REEDS  67 

Damaged  Warping  Reeds 

One  of  the  causes  of  defective  threads  in  a  warp  is  often  found 
to  be  due  to  worn  blades  in  the  warping  reed.  The  friction  of  the 
threads  against  the  worn  reed  blades  wears  a  groove  in  the  blades, 
which  tends  to  scrape  and  damage  the  threads.  If  thejatest 
improved  reed  motions  are  not  used,  it  will  be  advisable  to  exam- 
ine the  space  aad  cross  reeds  occasionally,  to  see  if  there  are  any 
worn  or  grooved  blades.  Some  reeds  last  longer  than  others,  t>ut  it 
largely  depends  upon  the  yarns  used  in  the  warps.  If  the  reeds 
are  not  worn  very  much,  they  can  be  repaired,  otherwise  they  will 
have  to  be  renewed.  It  is  advisable  to  have  all  warping  reeds 
nickel  plated,  so  as  to  avoid  rusting  of  the  reed  blades,  which  often 
causes  soiled  marks  in  white  and  light-colored  warps.  In  winding, 
quilling,  and  doubling  operations,  yarns  are  often  damaged  from 
running  through  worn  and  grooved  guides,  caused  by  the  friction 
of  the  threads.  All  guides  should  be  examined  frequently,  and, 
if  worn,  removed  at  once. 

Importance  of  the  Lease 

It  is  really  interesting  to  know  how  a  warp  of  thousands  of 
threads,  and  any  required  length,  is  leased  with  a  cross,  being  thus 
built  and  bound  together  so  that  each  end  can  be  separated  from 
the  others  without  tangling.  It  would  be  impossible  to  manu- 
facture the  quantities  of  fabrics  that  are  used,  without  the  lease  or 
cross  cord,  especially  those  made  of  silk  or  other  fine  yarns. 

Treatment  of  White  Yarns 

White  and  delicate  shades  of  yarn,  after  being  received  from 
the  bleachers  and  dyers,  should  be  handled  with  the  greatest  of 
care.  Every  skein  should  be  examined  thoroughly  and  all  soiled 
skeins  laid  aside  to  be  used  in  other  fabrics  where  the  warp  or 
filling  covers  the  soiled  spots,  or  when  they  cannot  be  seen  in  the 
pattern.  The  skeins  should  be  carefully  selected  before  they  are 
given  to  the  winder  operative,  and  should  be  well  covered  and 
protected  from  dust  and  dirt.  The  operative  should  be  supplied 
with  every  accessory  to  cleanliness,  such  as  soap,  towel,  French 


68  WARPING  PROCESSES 

chalk,  powder,  etc.,  so  there  will  be  no  excuse  for  handling  the  ma- 
terial with  soiled  or  moist  hands.  When  these  precautions  are 
taken,  the  work  will  be  clean,  although  every  operative  cannot  be 
trusted  to  wind  white  yarns.  The  machinery  should  be  frequently 
examined  to  see  that  all  spindles,  swifts  and,  especially,  the  bob- 
bins, are  clean.  If  the  wound  bobbins  are  to  be  stored,  each  bob- 
bin should  be  wrapped  in  white  tissue  paper.  Yarns  for  imme- 
diate use  should  be  carefully  placed  in  baskets  or  boxes,  covered 
well,  and  delivered  to  the  next  operative  who  is  to  handle  it. 

There  are  many  ways  in  which  white  and  light  shades  are 
soiled  in  warping,  beaming  and  quilling  operations.  Very  often 
poor  work  is  quite  unintentional,  and  is  due  to  ignorance  and  care- 
lessness on  the  part  of  a  beginner.  Foremen  should  keep  a  sharp 
eye  on  this  class  of  operatives. 

Careless  Warper  Operatives 

Naturally,  everything  has  to  be  handled  with  the  utmost  care 
in  a  warping  room.  Some  warper  operatives  are  careless  about 
handling  parts  of  the  machinery  without  washing  their  hands  before 
handling  light-colored  yarns,  thereby  soiling  same  and  causing 
irretrievable  damage.  Very  often  the  reeds  are  at  fault,  being 
unclean  or  rusty,  conditions  which  cannot  be  rectified  too  quickly. 

When  loosing  ends  from  the  reeds  and  pulling  back  to  so  find 
and  repair  them,  it  is  very  dangerous  to  omit  the  free  use  of 
French  chalk  on  the  hands.  Rather  than  take  the  chance  of 
soiling  the  white  yarns,  the  ends  of  the  section  should  be  lapped 
after  they  are  drawn  through  the  reeds.  The  sections  of  a  warp 
should  not  be  allowed  to  stand  any  unreasonable  length  of  time, 
as  they  will  show  dust  marks.  In  tying  knots,  the  ends  should 
never  be  bitten  off,  as  soiled  knots  will  invariably  result  from 
the  practice.  The  warp  reel  should  be  well  covered  and  care 
should  also  be  taken  to  keep  the  warp  well  covered  when  in  the 
building.  Paper  should  be  wound  around  the  reel  over  the  warp 
so  that  it  can  be  slid  on  the  warp  in  process. 

The  apron  worn  by  the  woman  operative  to  protect  her  clothes, 
and  often  made  use  of  by  her  for  the  wiping  of  soiled  hands  and, 
perhaps,  machinery  parts,  is  frequently  responsible  for  soiled 


MAKING  USE  OF  OLD  YARN  LOTS  69 

white  warps.  Foremen  should  insist  upon  the  use  of  clean  aprons 
in  the  warping  room. 

There  are  also  numerous  ways  in  which  white  and  light  shades 
of  yarns  are  soiled  in  quilling  or  spooling  operations.  In  many 
cases  the  trouble  may  be  due  to  complicated,  and  fast-speeded 
machinery,  or  to  the  amount  of  handling  that  the  yarn  is  ex- 
posed to. 

After  every  effort  has  been  made  in  the  various  departments 
to  deliver  clean  yarns,  there  are  numerous  accidents  at  the  loom 
that  frequently  result  in  soiled  fabrics.  Often  the  trouble  is  not 
detected  while  weaving,  but  still  appears  in  the  woven  fabric,  and 
it  is  then  hard  to  determine  the  direct  cause  of  soiled  threads, 
spots  and  streaks.  Naturally,  the  weaver,  to  free  himself  from 
blame,  claims  that  the  warp  or  filling,  as  the  case  might  be,  was 
soiled  before  he  received  it  from  the  warping  or  winding  room. 
Every  mill  manufacturing  white  and  light  shades  should  treat 
these  separately  from  other  colors,  and  this  throughout  all  the 
processes  from  the  winding  to  the  finished  fabrics. 

White  fabrics  can  be  manufactured  perfectly  at  times  in  some 
mills,  but  perfect  white  fabrics  can  rarely  be  manufactured  at  all 
times  in  any  mill.  Those  who  thoroughly  understand  silk  textile 
operations,  and  have  had  wide  experience,  are  familiar  with  the 
different  processes  and  treatments  that  white  yarns  must  undergo 
before  they  become  the  finished  fabric.  Veteran  operatives  on 
white  yarns  endeavor  to  produce  perfect  goods  at  all  times,  but 
it  seems  to  be  an  utter  impossibility  to  prevent  soiling.  Every 
operative  who  has  to  do  with  white  yarn  should  be  constantly 
warned  by  those  in  charge,  and  so  lessen  the  possibility  of  soiling, 
and  this  care  should  be  maintained  in  all  stages  from  the  winding 
to  the  finished  fabric. 

Making  Use  of  Old  Yarn  Lots  in  Warps 

There  are  various  ways  to  mix  old  lots,  and  remnants  of  a 
color,  when  necessary  to  use  them  in  a  warp  for  mixed  or  figured 
fabrics.  When  good  judgment  and  common  sense  are  used  in 
mixing  the  color,  there  is  no  danger  of  streaky  warps.  But  in 
plain  warps,  no  matter  how  carefully  the  color  is  mixed,  there  is 


70  WARPING  PROCESSES 

always  some  danger  of  the  warp  turning  out  a  streaky  warp. 
Sometimes  this  mixing  is  done  so  that  use  may  be  made  of  old 
lots  or  remnants,  but  if  there  is  too  great  a  difference  in  the  color 
matching  there  is  always  the  possibility  of  a  streaky  warp;  but  if 
the  colors  are  a  true  match  and  are  properly  mixed,  and  if,  after 
the  beginning  of  the  first  section,  the  warp  is  examined  and  appears 
even,  the  warp  can  be  finished  without  fear  of  streakiness. 

There  are  times  when  streaks  are  not  discovered  until  the 
warp  is  completed,  and  then  there  is  apparently  no  cause  for  them. 
But  if  it  is  traced  properly,  the  cause  may  be  found  to  be  either 
due  to  carelessness  in  mixing  the  yarns,  uneven  dyeing,  or  irregular 
winding.  It  very  often  occurs  that  yarn  is  wound  soft  on  the 
bobbins  by  some  operatives  and  hard  by  others.  If  these  are  not 
properly  mixed,  streaky  warps  will  be  the  result.  But  if  this 
defect  is  known  when  the  warper  receives  the  bobbins,  the  warper 
operative  should  be  given  instructions  just  how  to  mix  them,  and, 
by  accomplishing  this  properly,  the  streaky  defects  will  be  elim- 
inated. 

It  depends  largely  upon  circumstances  as  to  just  when  rem- 
nants can  best  be  used  and  the  proper  way  to  mix  them.  If  there 
are  two  or  three  lots  of  the  same  color  intended  for  one  or  more 
warps,  it  is  best  to  bank  and  tie  up  end-and-end  throughout  the 
entire  creel,  and,  especially,  if  there  is  an  equal  number  of  bobbins 
and  weight  of  silk  in  each  lot.  The  bobbins  should  not  be  arranged 
so  that  the  full  bobbins  are  on  one  side  and  the  empty,  or  partly 
empty,  ones  on  the  other  side  of  the  creel,  as  this  will  cause  the 
bobbins  to  run  out  as  emptied  which  have  to  be  replaced  with 
bobbins  of  a  different  lot,  invariably  causing  streaky  warps.  This 
is  one  of  the  important  things  for  the  operative  to  remember  in 
order  to  keep  the  bobbins  uniformly  scattered. 

To  indicate  the  difference  between  the  bobbins  when  they  run 
out,  each  lot  should  be  marked  with  chalk,  so  it  can  easily  be  seen 
which  lot  to  replace  when  necessary.  It  is  not  always  best,  in  all 
cases,  to  follow  the  rule  of  mixing  the  colors  end-and-end,  as,  if 
the  difference  in  the  colors  will  permit,  they  can  be  mixed  in  pro- 
portion to  the  amount  of  material  there  is  to  be  used.  If  there  are 
only  one-quarter  as  many  of  one  lot  of  a  material  as  of  another, 
and  the  bobbins  are  properly  filled,  naturally  they  can  be  tied, 


SELVAGES,  EDGES,  OR  BINDERS 


71 


one  end  of  the  smaller  lot  to  three  or  more  ends  of  the  larger,  and 
so  it  will  be  in  all  similar  cases. 

It  is  a  very  simple  matter  to  give  instructions  to  the  operative 
to  mix  end-and-end,  and  not  to  take  into  consideration  the  number 
of  bobbins  it  requires  to  fill  the  creel.  Should  the  operative  follow 
such  instructions,  one  lot  may  run  out  before  the  entire  creel  is 
banked  and,  not  knowing  of  the  danger,  the  operator  banks  the 
rest  of  the  creel  with  one  lot.  The  result  is  a  streaky  warp, 


FIG.   14. — 1.  Edge-warping  machine  and  anchor   bobbins.     2.  Hand-drive 
edge  take-off  machine. 

which  defect  is  very  seldom  discovered  until  the  warp  is  com- 
pleted or  partly  so,  and,  if  the  operative  is  called  to  account,  she 
invariably  does  not  understand  why  she  was  at  fault.  Nine 
times  out  of  ten  it  is  not  until  she  explains  how  the  creel  was 
banked,  that  the  mistake  is  discovered. 

Selvages,  Edges,  or  Binders 

Selvages  and  edges  are  made  and  used  with  all  warps.     With 
some  warps,  the  selvages  are  constructed  simultaneously  on  each 


72  WARPING  PROCESSES 

side,  and  usually  are  made  of  double  threads  of  the  same  material 
as  the  warp.  Other  warps  require  separate  edges,  a  trifle  longer 
(from  5  to  20  per  cent)  than  the  warp.  These  are  wound  on  bob- 
bins made  especially  for  this  purpose,  which  are  very  strong  and 
heavy,  with  a  groove  on  one  or  both  heads  or  flanges  for  holding 
the  tension  cords  when  using  the  edges  with  the  warps.  These 
are  commonly  called  anchor  bobbins. 

Edges  are  made  in  various  ways  and  are  of  different  kinds.  In 
order  to  get  the  required  result,  some  are  made  with  heavier 
material  than  the  warp,  the  selection  naturally  depending  upon 
the  fabric  to  be  woven.  Some  edges  are  made  with  one  color, 
others  have  a  fancy  stripe,  and  there  is  considerable  difference  of 
opinion  concerning  the  way  in  which  they  should  be  made. 

Some  warper  operatives  make  the  edges  after  completing  the 
warp  and  wind  them  on  the  anchor  bobbins  by  means  of  a  mechan- 
ism made  for  this  purpose,  called  the  take-off  machine. 

Edges  can  be  made  in  considerable  quantities  on  the  warp 
machine  at  one  time,  but  in  large  mills  the  equipment  includes  a 
regular  edge  machine  that  winds  and  measures  the  length  of  one 
or  two  pairs  of  edges  direct  on  the  anchor  bobbins.  This  machine 
can  be  operated  by  either  a  boy  or  girl. 

Power  and  Speeds  for  Winding,  Warping,  Beaming  and  Quilling 

Machines 

For  this  class  of  machinery,  the  individual  or  group  electric 
drive  is  the  most  satisfactory  and  reliable,  as  well  as  the  safest  and 
cleanest.  There  is  no  absolute  rule  for  the  exact  speed  at  which 
these  machines  should  be  driven.  Experience  and  careful  trials 
usually  determine  what  rate  of  speed  is  suitable  for  the  material. 

A  skein-winding  machine  is  driven  with  step-cone  pulleys,  one 
from  the  line  shaft  and  one  on  the  machine;  by  shifting  the  belt 
one  way  or  the  other  on  the  cone  pulleys,  the  desired  speed  can  be 
obtained.  This  arrangement  is  considered  the  old  way. 

When  the  machine  is  of  the  type  that  is  driven  direct  from  the 
line  shaft,  arranged  with  variable  speed-friction  pulley,  it  is  con- 
sidered as  driven  the  new  way.  The  pulleys  can  be  more  easily 
and  quickly  adjusted  than  by  any  other  arrangement  which  is 


MAKESHIFTS  FOR  HORIZONTAL  MACHINE  73 

workable  to  obtain  any  speed  required  for  winding  all  grades  of 
material. 

The  horizontal  warping  machine  requires  two  different  driving 
motions,  one  direct  from  the  line  shaft  to  the  beamer  gear  wheels 
to  do  the  beaming,  and  the  other  with  the  warp  reel  driven  from 
the  beamer  drive  with  two  grooved  disk  pulleys  and  friction,  by 
means  of  a  flange  secured  to  the  side  of  the  reel,  which  is  driven 
and  comes  in  contact  with  a  friction  pulley  that  is  carried  on  a 
lever  and  operated  by  the  use  of  a  treadle.  This  will  provide  the 
power  and  control  the  speed,  and  it  is  proper  to  run  the  machine 
at  the  rate  of  70  to  80  yards  per  minute,  and  this  will  limit  the 
beaming  rate  of  speed  to  from  4  to  8  yards  at  the  start  of  the 
•beaming,  for,  as  the  warp  winds  and  builds  up  on  the  beam,  the 
speed  invariably  increases. 

A  regular  Swiss  warping  machine,  and  a  beamer  machine,  are 
separate,  and  are  driven  with  step-cone  pulleys  so  that  they  can 
be  arranged  to  run  at  any  speed  that  is  required.  The  proper 
rate  of  speed  should  be  from  6  to  30  meters  per  minute,  as  may 
suit  the  requirements  of  the  material,  either  warping  or  beaming. 

Makeshifts  for  the  Horizontal  Warping  Machine 

There  are  several  things  necessary  with  a  horizontal  warping 
machine  which  are  not  furnished  when  purchasing  the  machine, 
and  these  must  be  adjusted  before  the  machine  can  be  used  to 
make  a  warp. 

1.  The  entire  quantity  of  bobbin  pins  should  be  numbered 
on  the  frame  of  the  creel  directly  over  each  row  of  pins,  with  good 
plain  figures. 

2.  A  thin  strip  of  wood  about  3  inches  wide,  white  upon  one  side, 
black  upon  the  other,  extending  the  full  width  of  the  creel,  should 
be  arranged  directly  underneath  the  glass  reed,  so  that  it  can  be 
easily  reversed,  to  use  either  black  or  white,  whenever  necessary 
to  plainly  see  the  ends. 

3.  There  should  be  a  heavy  wire  about  7J  inches  long  with  a 
hook  at  each  end  to  hold  the  cross  reed  on  the  creel  when  reeding. 

4.  There  should  also  be  a  thin  wire  extending  the  full  width  of 
the  cross-reed  frame,  so  that  a  black  or  white  cloth,  or  paper,  may 


74 


WARPING  PRCOESSES 


be  hung  on  the  wire  between  the  space  and  cross  reeds,  in  order  to 
see  the  ends  plainly. 

5.  One  or  two  wire  hooks  should  be  fastened  on  the  side  of  the 
carriage  to  hold  broken  ends  when  pulling  back  the  section. 


FIG  15. — 1.  Flanged  warp  beam,  with  rod  and  apron.  2.  Warp  beam,  with 
beam  heads,  rod  and  apron.  3.  Quill  board  with  wound  quills.  4. 
Quill  board,  empty.  5.  Fibre  box  and  full  quills.  6.  Fibre  swift  brace. 
7.  Endless  cotton-cord  swift  braces.  8.  Three  crossing  rods.  9.  Reeding 
hook.  10.  Cross-reed  holder  hook.  11.  Eye  shade.  12.  Winder  swift 
tension  weights.  13.  Section  spacing  compass.  14.  Section  hook  for 
sample  warps.  15.  Black,  and  white,  strips  for  reed  background. 
16.  Bone  pick.  17.  Doubler  flyer  guide.  18.  Winder  spindle,  with 
wooden  head.  19.  Doubler  spindle  for  take-up  bobbin.  20.  Quiller 
spindle  with  grooved  head.  21.  Iron  bracket  device  for  stopping  bob- 
bins from  winding  too  full. 

6.  There  should  be  six  bobbin  pins  on  the  front  of  the  car- 
riage to  hold  different  color  piecing  bobbins. 

7.  There  should  be  a  pin  under  the  carriage  table  to  hold  a 
bobbin  containing  crossing  cord. 

8.  There  should  be  a  narrow  strap  or  rope  for  a  brake,  and  ten- 
sion weights,  to  control  the  reel  when  winding  a  section. 


NECESSARY  TOOLS  FOR  WARPING  75 

9.  A  row  of  bobbin  pins,  used  for  holding  piecing  bobbins, 
should  be  arranged  on  the  frame  extending  the  full  width  of  the 
reel,  and  about  3  feet  above  the  beaming  device. 

10.  A  wire  or  cord  should  extend  the  full  width  of  the  frame 
under  the  warp  when  beaming,  to  fasten  a  black  or  white  cloth  or 
paper  to  for  a  background. 

11.  A  roller,  as  long  as  the.  width  of  the  reel,  with  a  cloth 
attached  for  covering  the  warp  when  not  working,  should  be 
arranged  on  the   frame*  under  the   beaming   device.     The  cloth 
should  be  about  9  yards  long  and  may  be  rolled  up  when  not  in 
use. 

12.  There  should  be  a  rope,  strap  or  chain  about  2  feet  long 
with  a  loop  at  each  end  and  a  heavy  iron  pin,  or  square-head  lag 
screw,  to  attach  t'o  the  beam  on  the  beaming  device. 

13.  There  should  be  special  wire-section  hooks,  to  hang  on  the 
reel  slats  for  short  sample  warps. 

Necessary  Tools  for  Warping 

1.  A  strip  of  good,  smooth,  stiff,  cardboard  paper,  2|  X8  inches, 
black  on  one  side,  white  on  the  other,  to  be  used  for  a  background 
when  reeding. 

2.  Pencil  and  Chalk  6.  Dividing  Compass 

3.  Memorandum  Book  7.  Small  Monkey  Wrench 

4.  Two-foot  Rule  8.  Scissors 

5.  Reeding  Hook  9.  Bone  Pick 

10.  Screw-driver 


CHAPTER  IV 
QUILLING    PROCESSES 

Quilling 

IN  general,  the  process  of  quilling  is  the  winding  of  the  yarns 
on  the  shuttle  bobbins,  commonly  termed  quills.  This  is  an 
important  process  and  needs  the  greatest  attention  in  order  to 
attain  perfect  work  and  prevent  unnecessary  waste. 


FIG.  16.— High-speed,  Underdrive,  Quiller. 

In  this  process,  great  care  must  be  paid  to  small  details,  which, 
if  overlooked,  cause  trouble,  such  as  soft  or  hard  quills,  quills 
wound  too  full  or  not  full  enough,  soiled  white  yarns,  or  other 
things,  caused  by  neglecting  machinery  repair  and  the  care- 
lessness of  operatives. 

76 


QUILLING  77 

Quill  winding  is  a  very  simple  operation,  but  there  are  many 
different  makes  of  quilling  machines,  some  quite  simple  and  others 
more  complicated.  All  are  easily  operated,  however,  as  each 
spindle  is  arranged  to  run  separately. 

The  spindle  is  set  and  regulated  to  make  the  quill  the  required 
size  and  length,  so  that,  when  it  is  full,  it  stops  automatically  by 
means  of  the  stopper  device. 

The  number  of  spindles  to  which  an  operative  can  give  careful 
attention  depends  largely  upon  the  yarn,  the  speed  of  the  machine, 
and  the  length  of  the  quill.  Naturally,  fine  yarn  fills  the  quills 
much  more  slowly  than  is  the  case  when  coarse  yarn  is  being  worked. 
An  operative  can,  of  course,  give  her  attention  to  more  ends  when 
quilling  fine  yarns  than  is  the  case  when  coarse  yarns  are  running 
on  the  machine;  on  the  other  hand,  more  work  is  attached  to 
coarse-size  quilling,  as  the  quills  fill  up  very  quickly. 

Fast  speed  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  a  quilling  machine. 
There  are  very  many  different  makes  and  no  two  of  them  are 
driven  at  the  same  rate  of  speed.  Some  are  made  to  quill  or  wind 
the  most  tender  material  that  can  be  woven,  at  a  rate  of  speed 
of  from  two  to  six  thousand  revolutions  of  the  quill  per 
minute. 

The  operative  has  many  little  details  to  look  after,  and  some- 
times real  problems  to  contend  with  in  the  working  day,  but  these 
must  be  met  and  solved  if  satisfactory  work  is  to  be  turned  in. 
The  experienced  girl  starts  the  quill  in  neat  and  proper  manner; 
she  does  not  leave  stringy  and  snarly  ends  on  the  heads  of  the 
quills;  she  ties  good  knots  when  it  is  necessary  to  tie  broken  ends; 
she  does  not  bite  or  tear  the  ends,  but  habitually  makes  use  of 
scissors  and  uses  great  care  when  working  with  white  or  light- 
colored  yarns. 

There  is  no  rule  governing  the  regularity  of  the  tension  of  quills, 
which  can  only  be  determined  correctly  by  the  sense  of  feeling 
and  by  examining  them;  therefore,  good  judgment  must  be  used 
as  to  their  tightness.  As  there  are  many  kinds  and  counts  of 
yarns,  each  sort  must  be  humored  with  the  tension  best  in  accord 
with  its  strength  and  other  characteristics. 

It  is  well  enough  to  knot  fine  yarns  when  ends  break,  but  it  is 
not  advisable  to  so  treat  coarse  sizes,  as  it  makes  large  and  clumsy 


78  QUILLING  PROCESSES 

knots  which  will  not  readily  pass  through  the  eye  of  the  weaver's 
shuttle,  causing  imperfect  work,  reduction  of  yardage  and  waste. 
The  operative  must  keep  well  in  mind  that  the  slightest  mis- 
take made  in  colors,  or  in  the  matter  of  yarn  sizes  invariably 
results  in  a  loss,  as  there  is  no  possible  way  to  remedy  such  errors, 
which  are  rarely  discovered  until  the  cloth  is  woven  and  examined. 

How  Quilling  is  Accomplished 

In  this  operation,  an  empty  quill  is  placed  on  the  spindle  and 
the  yarn  end  attached  to  the  quill  from  the  bobbin.  The  thread  is 
placed  in  the  guide  and  the  spindle  allowed  to  run.  When  full, 
the  quill  is  removed  and  another  placed  on  the  spindle. 

One  method  of  starting  the  thread  on  the  quill  is  to  pass  a 
few  turns  around  it  near  the  head  before  placing  it  in  an  operative 
position.  Another  method  is  to  put  the  empty  quill  in  position 
after  wrapping  the  thread  around  the  spindle.  As  the  full  quill 
is  removed,  the  yarn  end  is  carried  back  on  the  quill  and  made 
fast  with  one  or  two  slip  knots.  This  method  assists  the  weaver 
and  prevents  ravelling,  and  wastage  of  costly  yarn. 

When  necessary  to  tie  knots,  it  is  often  a  good  plan  to  guide 
each  knot  to  the  top  of  the  previous  filling  wound  on  the  quill,  as, 
in  many  cases,  a  knot  allowed  to  wind  on  the  quill,  and  to  become 
covered  with  the  material,  will  break  the  filling  while  weaving 
and  may  also  break  out  warp  ends.  It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  a 
carefully-arranged  and  well-conducted  quilling  room  will  pay 
for  itself  in  the  long  run. 

Quilling  and  Filling  Supply  Department 

In  any  mill  where  plain  fabrics  are  manufactured  in  large 
quantities,  the  quilling  and  filling  department  should  give  very- 
little  trouble,  providing  it  is  manned  with  reliable  and  experienced 
operatives,  but  in  mills  where  a  variety  of  fancy  fabrics  are  man- 
ufactured, calling  for  the  use  of  all  sizes  of  material  and  many 
colors,  often  in  small  quantities,  the  proper  control  of  the  quilling 
department  requires  experience,  skill,  and  managerial  capacity. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  select  and  recommend  any  one  system 
of  management  for  this  department,  but,  in  adopting  any  system, 


QUILL  BOARD  FILLERS  79 

one  of  the  first  things  necessary  is  to  secure  the  services  of  an 
experienced,  reliable  and  intelligent  department  head.  Such  a 
man  must  have  patience  and  exhaustive  knowledge  of  the  various 
yarns,  sizes,  and  colors,  and  of  the  weaving  uses  they  are  to  be 
put  to. 

It  is  very  necessary  for  the  department  head,  in  turn,  to  secure 
intelligent  winder,  doubler  and  quiller  operatives,  and  board  fillers. 
If  the  mill  management  can  afford  to  employ  a  man  who  is  familiar 
with  repairing  machinery,  and  who  can,  at  the  same  time,  keep 
the  department  in  order,  such  a  course  is  advisable. 

There  should  be  supplied  tables,  shelves,  and  plenty  of  drawers, 
properly  arranged,  with  each  shelf  and  drawer  numbered,  for  the 
convenient  storage  of  yarns  to  be  worked,  and  a  good  supply  of 
boxes,  baskets,  bobbins  and  quills.  Should  there  be  large  stocks 
of  various  yarns  and  colors,  the  system  of  using  different  colored 
bobbins  and  quills  should  be  adopted.  Such  a  system  has  proved 
its  value  time  and  again  as  it  not  only  prevents  mistakes,  but 
saves  much  valuable  time.  A  list  covering  the  different  colored 
bobbins  and  quills,  and  stating  which  kind  of  material  to  wind  on 
each  color,  should  be  distributed  and  hung  in  several  convenient 
places  so  that  it  may  be  consulted  when  necessary. 

Quill  Board  Fillers 

To  supply  the  weavers  with  filling,  boards  are  provided  con- 
taining a  series  of  short-length  wires  or  nails,  driven  upright  in 
the  board,  upon  which  the  quills  are  placed  heads  down.  These 
are  generally  called  quill  boards,  and  are  used  to  hold  the  filling 
for  weaving  purposes. 

While  the  weaver  is  using  and  emptying  the  quills  from  one 
board,  the  board-filler  prepares  a  duplicate  board,  which  remains 
in  the  filling  department  until  the  original  board  is  returned  by  the 
weaver  who  is  given  the  duplicate  board.  This  operation  is 
repeated  until  the  warp  is  run  out. 

The  board-filler  is  given  proper  orders  as  the  warp  is  being 
placed  in  the  loom,  and  is  again  notified  when  only  a  few  yards 
of  the  warp  are  to  be  finished,  which  acts  as  a  check  and  sim- 
plifies the  work  of  the  filling  and  emptying  of  the  boards. 


80 


QUILLING  PROCESSES 


The  desirable  quilling  operative  possesses  such  traits  as  intel- 
ligence, reliability  and  activity,  as  well  as  a  good  memory.  Expe- 
rienced operatives  are  quite  familiar  with  yarn  sizes  and  colors. 
This  class  readily  discovers  imperfections  in  yarns  and  takes  pains 
to  remedy  such  defects  before  the  quills  are  sent  to  the  weaving 
room.  Too  much  care  cannot  be  taken  in  the  important  matter 


FIG.  17.—  Doubling  Machine. 

of  lot  numbers,  and  the  reliable  employee,  under  all  circumstances, 
makes  it  a  point  to  follow  and  remember  the  lot  number  before  the 
delivering  of  the  filling  to  the  weaver  at  the  loom. 

Process  of  Doubling  Materials 

The  doubling  machine  is  similar  to  the  skein-winding  machine 
with  the  swifts  omitted,  and  with  a  series  of  bobbin  pins  projecting 
from  the  trame,  directly  below  each  set  of  spindle  bearings.  Small 


PROCESS  OF  DOUBLING  MATERIALS  81 

friction  levers,  with  adjustable  tensions,  rest  on  the  bobbins  when 
necessary.  A  series  of  stop  motions,  with  pivoted  faller-wires,  is 
provided  to  control  the  separate  ends,  so  that  any  desired  number 
of  threads  can  be  collectively  wound  on  the  take-up  bobbin,  at  one 
time.  Each  thread  is  so  passed  through  the  faller-wires  that,  if 
one  should  break,  or  run  out,  its  faller-wire  would  drop  and  cause 
the  spindle  and  running  bobbin  to  stop  immediately,  giving  the 
operative  an  opportunity  to  repair  the  broken  end  or  ends.  This 
operation  is  termed  doubling. 

This  machine  is  simple  in  operation,  and  is  employed  in  some 
mills  because  of  its  use  for  rewinding  materials  from  other  bobbins 
previously  wound  from  the  skein,  and  it  is  very  convenient  for 
the  doubling  up  of  remnants  and  odd  lots  that  accumulate  in  a 
mill  from  time  to  time.  It  is  also  useful  when  filling  material  is 
required  consisting  of  two,  three,  or  four  or  more  threads  to  give 
a  good  body  in  the  fabrics,  and  produce  the  desired  effect  in  the 
pattern.  The  number  of  spindles  that  an  operative  can  attend 
to,  keeping  them  supplied  and  running,  depends  largely  upon  the 
material,  size,  and  number  of  ends. 


CHAPTER  V 
MISCELLANEOUS    MATTERS 

Supply  of  Good  Bobbins  Advantageous 

A  VERY  important  item  for  all  silk  mills  to  consider  is  that  of 
having  a  good  supply  of  the  very  best  bobbins  obtainable,  as  i£ 
will  pay  in  the  long  run.  Specially  divided  boxes,  or  bins,  should 
also  be  provided  and  placed  in  a  convenient  place.  If  colored 
bobbins  are  used,  each  color  should  be  kept  separate,  clean  and  in 
good  order.  Quills  should  be  cared  for  in  the  same  manner. 

All  operatives  coming  in  contact  with  the  bobbins  should  be 
instructed  to  keep  them  clean,  using  only  sandpaper  to  clean  them, 
as  the  use  of  a  knife  or  scissors  for  this  purpose  damages  the  bob- 
bins. Anyone  disregarding  these  instructions  should  be  heavily 
fined  or  made  to  pay  for  each  bobbin  damaged.  The  use  of  sand- 
paper will  tend  to  keep  the  bobbins  smooth.  When  this  treat- 
ment is  neglected  they  will  always  be  cut,  scratched  and  rough, 
causing  the  material  to  cling  to  the  bobbins,  and  making  more 
waste  than  necessary  when  they  are  wound  off.  This  invariably 
causes  smashes  while  warping. 

Another  annoying  feature  appears  when  remnants  and  odd  lots 
of  accumulated  materials  must  be  disposed  of  to  the  waste  dealer, 
or  when  another  firm  that  has  been  employed  to  do  commission 
winding  or  warping  in  order  that  the  work  may  be  got  out  more 
quickly,  sends  back  rough  and  damaged  bobbins,  of  different  sizes 
and  of  other  ownership,  in  return  for  the  good,  clean  bobbins  that 
were  sent  them. 

If  irregular  bobbins  are  accepted  and  thrown  in  with  the  reg- 
ular ones,  there  is  no  end  of  trouble.  The  operative  using  them, 
not  knowing  they  are  a  trifle  too  long  or  too  short,  starts  to  wind 
the  yarn  on  them,  and  only  discovers  they  are  the  wrong  size  when 
it  is  too  late.  The  yarn  must  then  be  transferred  to  the  regular 
bobbins,  and  much  time  lost.  Considerable  waste  is  also  caused 

82 


EMPLOYING  HELP  83 

by  this  in  many  instances.  As  long  as  this  practice  continues, 
it  is  advisable  for  any  manufacturer  who  has  commission  winding 
and  warping  done,  or  who  deals  with  the  waste  men,  to  insist  upon 
having  his  own  bobbins  returned  to  him,  or  receiving  full  value 
for  them. 

All  bobbins  used  in  the  mill  should  be  made  to  correspond  with 
certain  standard  weights  per  100  bobbins,  so  that  the  tare  can  be 
calculated  from  the  count  of  the  bobbins.  Any  bobbins  that  find 
their  way  into  the  mill,  which  do  not  correspond  with  the  mill 
standards,  should  be  immediately  and  unhesitatingly  discarded, 
no  matter  how  good  they  may  be  in  other  respects,  as  their  use 
will  invite  serious  and  constantly  recurring  errors  in  calculating 
the  weight  of  wound  silk. 

Employing  Help 

Good  judgment  and  experience  are  required  in  engaging 
employees  and  putting  them  at  the  work  for  which  they  are  best 
fitted,  and  in  managing  them  while  at  work.  The  first  thing  to 
be  considered  in  an  applicant  is  his  appearance.  If  this  is 
favorable,  he  should  be  questioned  as  to  his  age,  former  employ- 
ment, and  the  reason  he  left  his  previous  position.  He  should 
also  write  his  name  and  address.  In  this  way,  an  opinion  may  be 
formed,  and  if  it  is  favorable,  the  applicant  may  be  put  at  work,  if 
there  is  a  vacancy;  if  not,  his  name  and  address  may  be  kept  for 
future  reference. 

There  are  times  when  it  is  necessary  to  employ  beginners.  If, 
by  chance,  the  learner  has  a  friend  in  the  same  department  in 
which  he  is  placed,  it  will  be  an  advantage  for  the  friend  to  take 
charge  of  him.  Otherwise,  the  foreman  may  be  at  a  loss,  as  he 
expects  more  or  less  trouble  in  finding  an  experienced  operative 
fitted  to  take  charge  of  a  beginner  and  show  him  the  work. 

Experienced  hands  are  not  always  willing  to  teach,  especially 
if  they  are  on  piece-work,  as  they  lose  more  or  less  time  and,  con- 
sequently, money,  while  giving  instruction  unless  they  are  paid 
in  some  way  for  teaching.  Those  who  are  working  on  time,  or 
by  the  day,  are  more  willing  to  instruct,  as  they  are  receiving  pay 
for  the  time  thus  spent. 


84  MISCELLANEOUS  MATTERS 

It  is  remarkable  what  a  number  of  mill  hands  apply  for  work 
and  claim  to  be  proficient,  but,  when  put  to  the  test,  seem  to  know 
very  little,  though  they  claim  to  have  worked  at  their  trade  for 
a  considerable  length  of  time.  The  operatives  themselves  are 
not  entirely  to  blame.  The  trouble  was  probably  with  their 
instructors,  who,  very  possibly,  did  not  know  much  more  than 
those  they  were  teaching,  lacked  experience,  or  did  not  care  to 
teach  too  much.  It  is  very  annoying  to  a  foreman  to  give  in- 
structions when  his  operatives  do  not  know  what  he  means,  and 
there  are  many  important  things  concerning  the  work  that  the 
employees  should  know,  but  do  not  know. 

It  is  a  common  thing  for  mill  workers  who  have  had  plenty 
of  experience  to  be  unwilling  to  teach  beginners  what  they  know. 
This  is  one  reason  why  many  so-called  experienced  operatives 
really  do  not  know  enough  to  be  classed  as  such,  and  do  not  under- 
stand what  is  expected  of  them  by  the  foreman. 

When  placing  new  help,  the  foreman  should  watch  closely 
to  see  how  far  he  can  rely  upon  them.  If  he  finds  that  they  are 
ambitious  and  industrious,  and  that  there  are  certain  details  that 
they  do  not  understand,  he  should  see  that  they  are  instructed, 
in  order  that  they  may  become  acquainted  with  the  materials  and 
sizes.  Operatives  should  be  interested  to  know  what  the  mate- 
rials are  used  for,  and  why,  and  the  way  in  which  they  are  used. 
It  is  an  advantage  for  all  concerned  to  know  what  the  work  is 
for  and  how  to  treat  it.  A  foreman  will  soon  learn  that  he  can 
depend  upon  his  help  more  and  save  himself  considerable  annoy- 
ance if  this  policy  is  followed. 

Printed  forms  of  rules  and  instructions  are  very  valuable  in 
these  departments.  Many  times  we  find  operatives  who,  when 
they  begin  to  work  in  the  mill,  are  satisfactory  for  the  time  being, 
but,  when  they  become  better  acquainted,  are  familiar  and 
boisterous,  and  often  wish  to  do  things  their  own  way.  They  are 
under  the  impression  that  they  know  all  about  the  work,  and  that 
no  one  else  knows  anything.  Under  pretense  of  being  everyone's 
friends,  they  find  out  all  they  can,  and  then  tell  all  they  have 
heard  and  more,  and  do  many  things  to  cause  trouble  among  the 
employees. 

It  is  very  easy  to  talk  among  a  number  of  operatives,  and 


EMPLOYING  HELP  85 

carry  tales  about  individuals,  imagining  it  is  doing  no  harm,  but  it 
is  usually  a  dangerous  practice,  as  things  are  repeated  in  a  very 
different  way.  It  is  always  better  to  be  careful  about  talking 
to  fellow  workers,  as  a  man  never  can  tell  who  his  friend  is. 

If,  by  any  chance,  such  a  tale-bearing  person  gains  employ- 
ment, every  means  should  be  tried  to  get  rid  of  him,  as  there  will 
never  be  either  peace  or  success  while  he  is  about.  Under  no  cir- 
cumstances should  he  be  kept,  as  he  is  likely  to  hinder  and  keep 
away  good  help  by  his  misconduct.  Employees  that  gossip  and 
talk  behind  one's  back,  do  things  they  should  not,  and  are  not 
willing  to  obey  rules  and  instructions,  cannot  be  relied  upon  and 
are  not  loyal  to  their  employer. 

It  is  not  always  advisable  to  dismiss  undesirable  operatives 
too  soon,  nor  for  every  small  thing  that  is  done,  however  provok- 
ing they  may  be,  especially  in  a  locality  where  trained  and  skilled 
help  is  none  too  plentiful.  Hasty  judgments  should  be  avoided 
as  much  as  possible.  Patience  and  even  temper  are  more  to  be 
cultivated.  Operatives  should  be  encouraged  to  learn  and  take 
an  interest  in  their  work.  If  a  foreman  is  fair  and  upright  in  his 
treatment  of  those  under  him,  he  will  find  that  anyone  of  common 
sense  will  pay  him  back  in  kind.  It  is  always  better  to  have  the 
good  will  of  the  operatives  than  their  ill  will.  During  an  expe- 
rience of  twenty-five  years  as  a  foreman,  I  secured  the  very 
best  service  from  those  under  me  by  using  them  well,  respecting 
their  feelings,  treating  them  fairly  and  impartially,  with  no  favor- 
itism whatever,  giving  the  orders  for  the  work  to  be  done  properly 
and  not  in  a  dictatorial  manner,  making  them  understand  that 
we  must  all  work  for  the  interests  of  the  owners,  and  that,  in  order 
to  do  this  best,  it  was  necessary  for  them  to  do  exactly  as  they  were 
told.  When  obliged  to  reprimand  them  for  bad  work,  I  explained 
to  them  the  loss  that  the  owners  sustained,  as  a  result  of  their 
neglect  or  carelessness.  If  that  was  of  no  avail,  I  had  a  little  con- 
fidential talk  with  them  to  make  them  understand  and  make  good. 

To  get  the  best  service  from  his  operatives,  it  is  necessary  for 
a  foreman  to  study  their  dispositions  and  act  accordingly.  With 
some  a  slight  reprimand  is  sufficient;  with  others,  talking  has  no 
effect  whatever.  It  goes  in  one  ear  and  out  of  the  other.  Then 
it  is  necessary  to  use  as  few  words  as  possible,  but  have  it  dis- 


86  MISCELLANEOUS  MATTERS 

tinctly  understood  that  you  mean  exactly  what  you  say,  and  in 
most  cases  this  will  end  the  trouble.  In  this  way,  a  foreman  can 
maintain  good  discipline  and  have  the  respect  and  good  will  of  all 
under  him.  The  most  efficient  service  will  be  obtained  and  the 
best  interests  of  his  employers  conserved.  The  best  results  can 
only  be  obtained  when  manager,  superintenent,  foreman  and 
operatives  work  harmoniously  together. 

Dismissing  Help  Temporarily 

There  are  very  few  textile  mills  able  to  keep  all  their  help  and 
machinery  working  all  the  year  around,  a  fact  that  is  due  in  large 
part  to  the  demand  for  changes  of  styles  for  the  different  seasons, 
causing  busy  and  slack  times.  When  the  slack  times  come,  and  it 
is  necessary  to  work  shorter  hours  and  with  less  help,  it  is  cus- 
tomary to  keep  the  oldest  employees,  who  have  given  satisfaction 
and  should  have  the  preference,  employed  as  long  as  possible.  It 
is  not  a  pleasant  duty  to  lay  off  help  at  such  times,  but  it  is  only 
fair  and  right  for  a  foreman  to  decide  whom  to  dismiss,  without 
showing  any  partiality  at  any  time. 

Complaints 

If,  at  any  time,  it  is  necessary  to  complain  or  receive  com- 
plaints about  the  operatives  for  poor  workmanship,  mistakes  or 
misconduct,  the  foreman  should  investigate  and  locate  the  real 
cause  of  the  trouble  in  order  to  be  positive  he  knows  how  to  act 
and  deal  with  it.  No  matter  who  it  is,  he  should  have  a  fair 
chance  to  explain  how  and  why  it  happened;  then  the  foreman 
can  act  according  to  the  nature  of  the  complaint.  He  should  be 
fair,  use  good  judgment  and  common  sense,  and  treat  the  case  as 
it  deserves.  If  it  is  a  mistake  and  is  shown  to  have  been  made 
through  a  misunderstanding,  he  must  make  the  best  of  it.  But,  if 
poor  workmanship  and  mistakes  prove  to  be  due  to  the  careless- 
ness or  willfulness  of  someone,  the  offender  should  be  made  to 
pay  the  consequences.  If  there  are  any  cases  of  disturbances, 
misconduct,  or  bad  behavior  among  the  operatives,  do  not  hes- 
itate to  dismiss  the  guilty  ones;  otherwise,  a  well-organized  depart- 
ment will  be  ruined. 


WASTE  OF  MATERIALS  87 

It  does  no  harm  to  complain,  and  in  many  cases  it  is  a  good 
thing,  especially  when  it  is  a  little  difficult  to  locate  the  cause  and 
know  whom  to  censure  for  the  defect.  If  there  is  any  reason  to 
find  fault  about  any  poor  workmanship,  do  it  in  the  right  man- 
ner. A  foreman  can  usually  determine  by  the  excuse  given 
whether  the  operative  is  at  fault  or  not.  Without  doubt,  there  are 
times  when  a  man  finds  out  things  he  had  never  dreamed  of.  Oper- 
atives are  often  kept  from  doing  good  work  by  the  poor  workman- 
ship of  the  previous  operative.  Winder,  warper  and  quiller  oper- 
atives are  generally  more  or  less  reluctant  to  find  fault  with  the 
work  of  previous  operations,  even  when  they  know  they  should 
report  the  defects  that  are  the  result  of  another's  carelessness,  and 
that  hinder  them.  They  know  it  creates  more  or  less  ill  feeling 
among  themselves,  which  often  ends  in  their  being  abusive.  With 
all  these  troubles  it  is  well  to  give  good  warning  to  all  operatives 
to  be  more  careful,  and  it  is  as  well  for  them  to  know  that  all 
defects  are  not  so  easily  overlooked;  otherwise,  they  would  not 
know  but  the  workmanship  was  perfect  and  in  no  need  of  criti- 
cism for  defects. 

Waste  of  Materials 

There  must  always  be  a  reasonable  allowance  made  for  the 
waste  of  material  in  winding,  warping  and  quilling,  but  if  there  is 
no  proper  system  installed  to  keep  in  touch  with  it,  more  waste 
will  accumulate  than  the  allowance  calls  for.  To  avoid  this  is  a 
difficult  problem,  as  there  are  many  ways  in  which  it  may  occur. 
Sometimes  it  is  due  to  shiftless  and  careless  operatives,  and  is  more 
frequent  among  piece-workers,  who  are  anxious  to  do  all  the  work 
they  can  and  do  not  take  the  time  and  trouble  to  be  as  particular 
and  exact  as  time  or  day  workers  would  be.  There  is  much 
material  torn,  cut  or  destroyed  and  made  into  waste  that  could  be 
saved  with  a  little  patience.  Some  operatives  are  very  careless 
and  free  about  the  making  of  waste,  as  they  do  not  realize  the 
value  of  the  material  they  are  working  with.  Then,  again,  the 
materials  are  often  damaged  or  spoiled  in  the  previous  operation, 
which  causes  waste  to  accumulate  and  which  cannot  be  avoided 
by  the  best  operatives. 

Some  manufacturers  have  a  system  of  keeping  account  of  the 


88  MISCELLANEOUS   MATTERS 

waste  by  re-weighing  the  finished  work  of  warper,  winder  and 
quiller,  thus  ascertaining  whether  more  waste  has  been  made  than 
is  necessary  and  allowed.  The  operative  is  called  to  account  for 
this  and  has  to  bear  the  consequences,  usually  a  fine  or  dismissal. 

The  accumulation  of  too  much  waste  is  a  difficult  matter  to 
overcome,  and  it  is  not  always  advisable  to  be  too  strict  regarding 
the  amount  made,  as  it  is  well  known  that  some  operatives,  from 
fear  of  being  fined  or  dismissed  for  excess  waste,  will  take  or  hide 
some  of  it. 

To  overcome  this  as  much  as  possible,  the  man  in  charge  should 
adopt  some  system  of  warning  the  operatives  to  be  careful,  and, 
by  watching  and  collecting  the  waste  every  two  or  three  days, 
ascertain  which  ones  are  at  fault. 

Bags  should  be  attached  to  the  machines  for  this  purpose, 
and  operatives  should  be  instructed  to  put  all  waste  in  these 
bags,  and  not  on  the  floor  to  be  swept  out.  In  this  way,  there 
will  be  some  information  about  how  much  waste  is  made  and  com- 
plaint may  be  made  to  the  operative  if  too  much  is  found.  Each 
one  should  be  made  to  account  for  it,  and  if  the  excess  is  found  to 
be  due  to  carelessness,  the  one  at  fault  should  be  warned  to  check 
it  or  bear  the  consequences.  If  it  is  the  result  of  worn  machinery, 
this  should  be  attended  to  as  quickly  as  possible,  otherwise  waste 
will  be  bound  to  accumulate. 

Light 

Poor  light  is  one  of  the  greatest  hindrances  to  success  in  all 
processes  of  textile  manufacturing.  The  best  daylight,  or  arti- 
ficial light,  obtainable  must  be  furnished  in  order  to  obtain  good 
results  and  production  from  a  mill  and  all  its  departments.  Light 
from  overhead,  through  a  sawtooth  roof  facing  the  north,  has  been 
tried  and  is  considered  the  best  light  for  all  mill  purposes.  It  can 
be  relied  upon  and  is  more  evenly  distributed,  in  addition  to  which 
the  machinery  can  be  placed  in  an  advantageous  position  to  get 
the  full  benefit  of  the  light.  With  side  windows,  the  machinery 
must  be  so  placed  as  to  take  advantage  of  the  windows. 

More  or  less  artificial  light  must  be  used  in  all  mills  and  there 
are  many  kinds  from  which  to  choose  The  latest  improved  elec- 


TO  REGULATE  WAGES  89 

trie  light  is  none  too  good,  and  the  best  obtainable  should  be 
installed,  especially  for  silk  manufacturing.  Experience  has 
demonstrated  that  it  is  impossible  to  turn  out  as  perfect  work 
with  artificial  light  as  it  is  with  good  clear  daylight.  The  great 
difference  is  easily  noticed  in  the  change  from  the  summer  to  the 
winter  season,  from  long  to  short  days,  when  all  mills  must  use 
artificial  light  a  few  hours  each  day,  and,  many  times,  all  day. 

On  account  of  the  difficult  and  exacting  work  that  there  is  to 
be  done  in  silk  mills,  every  operative  should  wear  a  dark  green 
eye  shade  to  assist  and  protect  the  eyes.  No  matter  how  young 
and  strong  the  eyesight  is,  it  will  do  no  harm  to  wear  a  shade, 
as  in  time  to  come  it  will  prove  to  have  saved  the  eyes. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  by  using  a  shade,  an  object  can 
always  be  seen  more  distinctly,  and  that  one  can  accomplish 
better  work  on  a  bright  day  than  is  the  case  on  dark  days  when 
artificial  light  is  necessary.  Daylight  is  the  proper  light  in  which 
to  match  colors  and  shades,  and  the  matching  of  colors  in  strong 
sunlight,  or  artificial  light,  should  not  be  attempted,  as  both  are 
unreliable  and  deceiving.  In  matching  colored  skein  materials 
the  best  results  can  be  obtained  on  a  good,  clear  day,  with  light 
from  the  north  side.  The  skeins  should  be  properly  straightened 
and  smoothed  out,  then  hung  up  close  together,  and  moved  in 
different  ways  to  get  the  same  effect.  If  there  are  any  differ- 
ences in  the  shade  it  can  be  easily  seen,  and  when  they  are  even, 
one  may  be  satisfied  that  they  are  properly  matched. 

To  match  colored  yarns  wound  on  bobbins  is  more  diffi- 
cult, as  the  irregular  tension  from  winding  will  cause  the  silk  to 
appear  to  the  eye  to  be  of  an  uneven  or  different  shade.  To  over- 
come this  somewhat,  turn  the  bobbins  or  quills  around  in  different 
ways  toward  the  light,  which  will  cause  them  to  appear  in  other 
shades,  but  it  is  better  to  unravel  some  yarn  from  the  bobbin  or 
quill  and  match  the  two  together  to  get  the  desired  effect. 

To  Regulate  Wages 

It  would  be  difficult  to  advocate  the  use  of  a  system  to  regulate 
the  wages,  as  circumstances  vary  in  all  mills,  and  every  manu- 
facturer has  his  own  opinion  as  to  what  is  the  best  way  to  pay 


90  MISCELLANEOUS  MATTERS 

wages.  For  that  reason,  some  pay  by  the  day,  others  by  piece- 
work. In  some  manufacturing,  the  work  is  very  plain,  simple  and 
uniform,  therefore,  it  can  easily  be  arranged  to  pay  one  price  for 
all  work  and  materials,  or  to  pay  by  the  day. 

The  work  of  other  manufacturers  is  very  irregular  and  compli- 
cated, and,  therefore,  piece-work  wages  must  be  arranged  to  suit 
the  work,  which  varies  according  to  the  different  grades  or  sizes 
of  yarns  to  be  wound,  warped  or  quilled. 

Piece-work  rates  for  winding  are  usually  fixed  by  the  skein, 
hank,  or  weight.  For  quilling,  the  weighing  system  is  the  surest, 
most  convenient  and  fairest  method.  For  warping,  the  rates  are 
usually  per  hundred  ends  for  a  hundred  yards  or  meters. 

When  large  dye  lots  are  used  from  which  a  number  of  warps 
can  be  made  with  a  full  set  of  bobbins  on  the  warp  creel,  a  lower 
rate  can  be  fixed  upon  than  is  usual  for  one  warp  and  small  dye 
lots. 

Mills  that  manufacture  all  plain  goods,  and  only  one  kind  of 
fabric,  and  which  are  in  a  locality  where  there  is  competent  and 
reliable  help,  can  easily  arrange  and  establish  a  schedule  of  day 
wages  that  will  be  satisfactory  and  fair  to  employer  and  employee, 
by  planning  a  system  whereby  the  one  in  charge  knows  that  each 
person  is  kept  busy  and  produces  a  good  day's  work  and  earns  his 
pay.  It  is  necessary  to  hold  one  person  responsible  for  the  keep- 
ing of  the  weighing  records  and  the  giving  out  of  work  to  the  oper- 
atives, as  it  is  a  rare  thing  to  have  employees  that  work  alike  and 
turn  out  the  same  amount  of  work,  although  they  all  have  the  same 
kind  of  work  and  opportunities.  Day  workers,  as  a  rule,  require 
more  watching  to  see  that  they  do  a  day's  work  than  piece- 
workers. They  generally  do  so  much  and  no  more,  and  are  more 
apt  to  take  their  time  to  do  the  work.  At  the  same  time,  they 
keep  things  in  order  and  usually  do  not  destroy  materials  or  make 
more  waste  than  allowed.  But  they  should  do  exactly  as  ordered. 
They  are  not  so  willing  and  ambitious  to  produce  the  quantity 
of  work  that  they  would  be  if  on  piece-work. 

With  piece-work,  it  is  more  difficult  to  establish  a  fair  and  satis- 
factory price  for  either  employers  or  employees,  as  circumstances 
vary  so  greatly,  and  the  rate  depends  largely  upon  what  is  being 
manufactured.  A  method  to  establish  piece-work  prices  is  usually 


ARRANGING  MACHINERY 


91 


based  upon  the  rate  for  day  work.  For  example,  take  an  average* 
of  the  amount  of  work  a  few  good  day  workers  will  turn  out  in 
two  or  three  days;  from  this  amount,  the  piece-work  prices  are 
determined,  after  a  fair  and  suitable  percentage  is  deducted  from 
it.  Piece-work  inspires  more  ambition  to  hurry  and  earn  as  much 
as  possible,  consequently  a  greater  production  is  derived  therefrom. 
But  piece-workers  are  more  apt  to  be  careless  with  their  work 
and  need  constant  watching  to  prevent  them  from  making  more 
waste  than  is  allowed.  They  are  also  usually  not  so  particular 


FIG.  18. — Heavy  Fancy  Shaft.    Harness  Loom. 

concerning  the  cleanliness  and  order  of  their  work,  and  allow 
waste  to  accumulate  on  the  floor  and  leave  it  on  the  bobbins  and 
quills. 

Arranging  Machinery 

Satisfactory  machinery  layouts  are  not  obtained  without 
considerable  study.  Assuming  that  the  amount  of  machinery 
to  be  used  is  known,  there  are  many  other  details  that  affect  the 
arrangement.  The  entire  equipment  should  be  decided  upon, 
including  tables,  shelves,  closets,  drawers,  racks,  partitions,  etc.. 


92 


MISCELLANEOUS  MATTERS 


FIG.  19.— Jacquard  Silk  Loom  with  Motor  Drive. 


PLAN  FOR  MACHINERY  FLOOR  SPACE 


93 


before  the  machinery  is  placed.     Then  a  plan  for  the  whole  room 
may  be  made. 

Plan  for  Machinery  Floor  Space 

The  following  has  proved  to  be  an  ideal  method  for  deciding 
the  simplest  and  best  way  of  placing  machinery,  tables  and  shelves 
on  the  floor  space. 

Take  a  sheet  of  paper  to  represent  the  floor  space,  and  make  a 
scale  of  a  quarter  or  half  inch  to  a  foot.  Cut  a  piece  of  cardboard 


FIG.  20. — Skein  Reel,  with  Single  Fly. 

for  each  piece  of  machinery,  table  and  shelf  to  be  placed,  and 
measure  each.  Thus,  the  pieces  of  cardboard  represent  the 
machinery  and  can  be  placed  upon  the  paper  representing  the 
floor,  to  the  best  advantage  as  regards  space  pulleys,  shafting  and 
light.  By  doing  this,  everything  is  planned  on  the  paper  before 
the  machinery  is  actually  placed,  thereby  securing  the  best  position 
for  each  piece.  As  there  are  many  different  kinds  of  machinery, 
requiring  various  amounts  of  floor  space,  it  is  difficult  to  place 


94  MISCELLANEOUS  MATTERS 

winding,  warping  or  quilling  machines  in  such  a  way  as  not  to 
waste  floor  space  and  yet  have  sufficient  room  for  the  use  of 
aisles,  etc.  Placing  machinery  on  a  floor  before  trying  a  plan 
like  this,  may  turn  out  to  be  wrong,  and  a  costly  mistake. 

Repairs 

Some  machinery  repairs  should  be  made  in  the  mill,  while 
others  should  be  made  outside.  Just  where  should  the  line  be 
drawn?  The  answer  to  this  depends  upon  the  size  of  the  mill 
and  whether  there  is  a  machine  shop  near.  Small  mills  usually 
have  a  very  limited  supply  of  machinery  equipment  and  tools,  and 
find  it  advisable  to  have  nearly  all  repair  work  done  outside.  The 
mills  that  are  neither  large  nor  small  are  those  that  most  fre- 
quently waste  time  and  money  by  sending  repair  work  out  when 
they  could  probably  do  it  as  well  themselves.  Men  in  their  em- 
ploy could  do  the  work  as  satisfactorily  and  quickly  as  men  in  the 
machine  shop  if  they  had  the  necessary  equipment,  and,  by  having 
the  work  done  in  the  mill,  a  profit  would  be  saved  that  would 
otherwise  go  outside.  The  ability  to  repair  machinery  in  the  mill's 
own  shop  often  saves  valuable  time.  Idle  machinery  may  inter- 
fere with  the  mill's  production,  and,  if  time  is  taken  to  replace  the 
broken  parts  by  sending  to  the  machinery  makers,  several  days 
may  elapse  before  things  can  be  running  in  the  normal  way  again. 
Often,  the  broken  parts  can  be  repaired  at  the  mill  as  well,  and 
little  time  will  be  lost  on  account  of  the  accident.  To  be  sure,  new 
parts  may  be  needed,  and  the  repairs  made  will  be  only  a  make- 
shift, but,  even  in  this  case,  it  may  mean  a  saving  of  considerable 
trouble  and  many  dollars.  There  are  many  reasons  why  the 
mechanical  end  of  a  textile  mill  should  be  in  charge  of  a  reliable, 
all-around  man,  who  is  well  paid  and  who  understands  engineering. 
The  importance  of  making  repairs  quickly,  properly,  and  econom- 
ically, is  a  strong  argument  in  favor  of  this  arrangement. 

Some  inexperienced  mill  hands  will  repair  machinery  in  a  slip- 
shod manner,  for  the  time  being,  by  tying  the  broken  parts  with 
cord  and  ropes,  instead  of  using  the  proper  appliances.  This  is 
not  good  mechanics  and  often  proves  disastrous.  It  is  better  to 
repair  the  machine  in  the  right  way,  if  possible;  if  not,  leave  it 
until  the  work  can  be  done  properly. 


SUPPLIES  NEEDED  95 

All  machinery,  gear  wheels,  pulleys,  and  belts,  that  are  dan- 
gerous, should  be  covered  to  avoid  accidents.  No  passageways 
should  be  obstructed.  All  female  operatives  should  be  compelled 
to  wear  a  suitable  head  covering,  like  a  gauze  or  net  cap,  to  keep 
the  hair  from  flying  about  and  catching  on  belts  or  in  machinery. 

Supplies  Needed 

It  is  very  important,  and  pays  in  the  end,  to  have  a  good  supply 
of  all  articles  that  are  needed  in  the  departments.  The  list  in- 
cludes belt  lacings  or  hooks,  bobbins,  quills,  edge  bobbins,  beaming, 
tissue  and  wrapping  paper,  cord,  banding,  swift  spokes  for  repair- 
ing, swift  braces,  wooden  and  iron  winder  spindles,  waste  bags, 
cloth  coverings,  warping  reeds,  cut-mark  paints,  chalk,  emery 
cloth,  sand-paper,  waste  for  cleaning,  brushes,  brooms,  soap, 
towels,  machine  oil,  belt  grease,  oiling  cans,  benzine,  mill  boxes 
and  baskets,  scales,  scissors,  reed  hooks,  measuring  rulers,  pins, 
carpet  tacks,  porcelain  guides,  shellac,  glass  reeds,  wrenches, 
hammers,  screw-drivers,  pulleys,  belt  punches,  tension  weights, 
writing  paper,  etc. 

A  supply  of  all  tools  that  the  operatives  require  should  be  kept 
in  stock  and  furnished  them  at  cost. 

Tracing  Oil  Spots 

Sometimes  oil  is  found  dropping  from  the  machines  and 
spreading  on  the  materials,  but  it  is  very  hard  to  locate  the  place 
from  which  it  comes.  If  there  is  any  suspicion  of  the  source,  lay 
or  hang  a  piece  of  paper  on  the  machine  at  the  place  where  the  oil 
is  believed  to  drop,  and,  if  there  is  any,  it  can  readily  be  seen  on 
the  paper. 

Luncheon 

It  is  a  poor  policy  to  allow  the  operatives  to  have  luncheon 
in  working  hours,  as  they  gather  together  and  take  advantage  of 
the  opportunity  to  visit  and  talk  among  themselves.  In  this  way, 
they  lose  considerable  time,  and  seem  to  forget  that  the  power  is 
on  and  the  machinery  running  for  nothing.  If  it  is  necessary  for 
anyone  to  eat  during  working  hours,  he  can  lunch  and,  at  the  same 


96  MISCELLANEOUS  MATTERS 

time,  keep  his  work  and  machine  going,  provided  he  is  very  careful 
not  to  soil  the  work  with  his  hands. 

Sweeping 

All  operatives  should  be  instructed  to  be  careful  when  sweeping 
the  floor.  Everything  that  has  any  value  should  be  picked  up  and 
taken  care  of,  especially  such  articles  as  bobbins,  quills,  screws, 
nuts,  washers,  small  weights  and  parts  of  machinery,  also  waste 
material. 

Table  of  Bobbin  Weights 

The  following  table  of  bobbin  weights  has  often  proved  to  be 
serviceable  and  convenient  when  it  was  necessary  to  use  it  for 
weighing  wound  materials.  For  example,  mark  the  weight  of  each 
number  of  bobbins  and  quills,  from  one  to  one  hundred,  on  a  good- 
sized  sheet  of  paper  in  the  way  prescribed  here  for  a  given  number 
of  bobbins  and  quills: 

No.  of  Lbs.  Oz.  Drs.  No.  of  Lbs.  Oz.  Drs. 

Bobbins.  Bobbins. 


1 

024 

100 

14 

2 

5. 

2 

048 

200 

28 

4 

10 

3 

0              6            12 

300 

42 

6 

12 

4 

091 

400 

56 

9 

4 

5 

0            11             5 

500 

70 

11 

8 

And  so 

on  until  100  is  reached. 

600 

84 

13 

4 

700 

99 

0 

3 

800 

113 

2 

8 

900 

127 

4 

13 

1000 

141 

7 

0 

To  make  this  table  of  weights  may  seem  difficult.  It  will 
certainly  take  time  to  do  it,  but  the  convenience  and  time  saved 
are  worth  the  trouble  and  when  used  it  will  prove  its  value  many 
times.  Often,  when  it  is  found  necessary  in  these  departments  to 
take  the  weight  of  materials  wound  on  bobbins  and  quills,  this 
method  will  be  found  to  be  convenient,  simple,  quick  and  reliable, 
especially  when  taking  inventory.  When  large  quantities  of  bob- 
bins and  quills  are  to  be  weighed,  a  special  box  or  basket  should 
be  used  for  weighing  only,  and  it  would  be  better  if  the  box  weighed 


BOOK  SYSTEMS  97 

about  5  or  10  pounds,  as  such  a  number  is  easier  to  deduct  from 
the  gross  weight,  thus  avoiding  trouble  and  mistakes. 

Book  Systems 

As  circumstances  and  conditions  vary  so  much,  it  would 
hardly  be  advisable  to  advocate  any  definite  system  for  booking 
and  charging  the  stock  accounts  of  materials,  or  filling  out  the 
warp  tickets,  and  recording  the  work,  in  general,  of  these  depart- 
ments. No  matter  what  the  system  is  supposed  to  be,  it  must  be 
the  method  best  suited  to  the  management  and  circumstances. 

It  may  be  advisable  to  use  a  loose-leaf  or  card  system.  This 
can  be  recommended  as  being  the  most  reliable  and  systematic 
method  of  keeping  records  and  accounts  of  stock  and  materials 
in  connection  with  the  warp-order  tickets  and  book. 

Yard  and  Meter  Measure 

Metric  measures  are  frequently  used  with  the  yard  measure  in 
silk  warping,  some  mills  having  only  the  Swiss  warping  machines, 
while  others  have  only  the  horizontal,  and  still  others  have  both. 

Usually,  the  Swiss  machine  runs  on  the  metric  system,  and  the 
horizontal  on  the  yard  measure.  Operatives  are  often  found  who 
do  not  understand  the  difference  between  yards  and  meters.  This 
should  be  fully  explained  to  them.  The  meter  is  about  9f  per 
cent  longer  than  the  yard,  and  (as  being  very  convenient)  ten 
meters  is  counted  as  equalling  11  yards,  and  100  meters  as  110 
yards,  this  being  an  assumed  difference  of  10  per  cent,  which,  of 
course,  is  not  accurate. 

Dining,  Dressing,  and  Emergency  Rooms 

A  factory  employing  both  sexes,  and  having  space  enough, 
should  furnish  a  room,  or  wardrobes,  for  the  employees'  clothing, 
and  a  dining  room.  There  should  also  be  a  convenient  and  com- 
fortable room,  with  a  medicine  chest,  to  be  used  in  case  of  acci- 
dents or  sickness,  so  that  suffering  employees  may  be  made  com- 
fortable and  be  properly  treated.  If  there  is  no  such  room,  an 
operative  who  becomes  sick  is  usually  stretched  on  the  floor  until 


98  MISCELLANEOUS  MATTERS 

sufficiently  revived  to  go  home.  This  generally  causes  consider- 
able excitement  and  disturbance  among  the  other  operatives,  and 
a  consequent  unnecessary  loss  of  time. 

Changing  One's  Position 

A  foreman  changing  his  place  in  order  to  obtain  a  better  posi- 
tion, often  finds  conditions  in  his  new  mill  very  different  from  those 
he  has  left.  He  may  have  a  good  record  for  experience,  and  may 
have  understood  his  business  thoroughly  in  the  place  he  has  left, 
but  he  will  feel  very  strange  in  his  new  surroundings.  He  may 
wish  to  make  a  number  of  changes,  but  if  he  attempts  too  much  at 
once  he  will  find  himself  in  a  great  deal  of  trouble.  He  must  work 
slowly  and  become  acquainted  with  his  new  environment,  as  he 
will,  no  doubt,  wonder  at  the  way  things  are  managed.  Changing 
things  slowly  in  order  to  make  them  fit  his  ideas  will  naturally 
benefit  him  as  well  as  his  employer.  No  one  has  had  experience 
enough  to  know  all  there  is  to  know  about  textile  manufacturing, 
but  the  more  a  man  goes  from  mill  to  mill,  the  more  he  will  learn. 


CHAPTER  VI 
REMINDERS,  DUTIES  AND  RULES 

A  Few  Reminders  for  Inventory 

ALL  mills  take  inventory  at  least  once  a  year  and  everyone  has 
his  own  opinion  about  the  proper  way  to  do  it.  Two  inventories 
are  seldom  taken  alike;  in  some  mills  it  is  not  even  taken  in  the 
same  way  two  years  in  succession,  owing,  no  doubt,  to  the  changes 
that  take  place,  bringing  different  ideas  to  those  in  charge  of  the 
mill  and  of  its  different  departments. 

Stock  taking  does  not  occur  often  enough  in  mills  to  enable 
anyone  to  decide  when  it  is  correctly  done.  It  is  always  necessary 
to  take  stock  quickly  and  accurately,  and,  should  the  one  in  charge 
have  suitable  assistance,  he  should  see  that  all  are  properly  in- 
structed, or  each  will  have  a  method  of  his  own,  which  may  prove 
disastrous. 

The  importance  of  counting,  weighing  and  listing  the  materials 
at  inventory  cannot  be  over-estimated.  Care  should  be  taken  to 
avoid  mistakes  when  counting  the  bobbins  and  quills,  and  also  to 
count  by  fives,  otherwise  mistakes  are  apt  to  occur.  When  weigh- 
ing wound  materials  in  boxes  or  baskets,  the  receptacles  should 
be  of  even  weight,  say  3,  5,  or  10  pounds,  and  the  weight  should  be 
plainly  marked  on  the  box  or  basket,  so  that  the  same  weight  is 
used  at  all  times. 

For  listing  and  booking  the  weighed  materials,  a  fair  sized  loose- 
leaf  book  is  best,  properly  ruled  and  headed  for  the  different  sizes 
of  materials.  The  loose-leaf  book  will  be  found  to  be  more  con- 
venient and  safe  than  sheets  and  slips  of  paper,  as  they  are  apt  to 
get  mislaid. 

The  following  are  a  few  reminders  that  are  useful  when  inven- 
tory time  is  approaching,  and  which  should  be  kept  on  file  for 
reference,  in  order  to  have  the  same  system  each  time  when  taking 
stock. 

99 


100  REMINDERS,  DUTIES  AND  RULES 

1.  Books  and  sheets  should  be  ruled  and  headed  for  the  dif- 
ferent materials. 

2.  Typewritten  slips  should  be  prepared  for  entry  of  weights 
and  number  of  wound  bobbins  and  quills. 

3.  Lot  tickets  should  be  in  plain  sight  on  all  material  in  shelves 
boxes,  baskets  or  drawers. 

4.  All  assistants  needed  should  be  engaged  a  few  days  before 
the  tune. 

5.  All  assistants  should  be  instructed  to  count  bobbins  and 
quills  by  fives,  instead  of  any  way  it  happens.     This  way  is  easier, 
quicker  and  more  reliable,  and  avoids  mistakes. 

6.  Assistants  should  be  instructed  how  to  mark  the  number  of 
bobbins  or  quills  on  the  slips. 

7.  They  should  also  be  shown  how  to  use  the  scales  and  how 
to  mark  the  weights  when  weighing  the  different  materials. 

Important  Duties  of  a  Foreman 

1.  He  should  be  present  at  least  five  minutes  before  starting 
time,  both  morning  and  noon,  and  should  be  the  last  to  leave  at 
stopping  time. 

2.  He  should  see  to  the  lighting,  heating  and  ventilating  of  the 
department. 

3.  He  should  start  the  power,  and  see  that  all  machinery  is 
running  properly. 

4.  He  should  have  all  operatives  on  time  in  their  proper 
places,  ready  to  begin,  and  keep  them  supplied  with  work. 

5.  He  should  see  that  the  floors  and  windows  are  properly 
cleaned.     There  should  be  a  general  cleaning  of  machinery  once 
a  week,  and  it  should  be  oiled  at  least  twice  a  week. 

6.  He  should  allow  no  bobbins,  quills,  or  waste  on  the  floor. 

7.  He  should  insist  that  all  operatives  maintain  order  and  obey 
all  rules  and  instructions;   also  that  they  give  due  attention  to 
their  work  in  all  its  details,  in  order  to  turn  out  a  perfect  product. 

8.  He  should  have  all  materials  properly  taken  care  of  and  put 
in  the  right  places. 

9.  He  should  see  that  all  orders  from  other  departments  are 
promptly  attended  to. 


RULES  AND  REGULATIONS  101 

10.  He  should  keep  a  record  of  the  time  of  the  operatives  and 
an  account  of  the  materials. 

Rules  and  Regulations 

Printed  rules  and  instructions,  similar  to  those  following,  will 
prove  to  be  of  great  value  in  these  branches  of  work  in  every  textile 
mill.  Every  employee  should  be  supplied  with  a  copy  of  these 
rules,  that  he  may  become  familiar  with  the  part  that  concerns 
himself  and  his  work.  This  will  greatly  assist  him  in  understanding 
and  at  the  same  time  will  instruct  him  as  to  what  is  the  quickest 
and  easiest  way  of  doing  the  work.  Then,  there  will  be  no  excuse 
for  the  operative  not  to  follow  instructions  and  obey  rules.  In 
this  way,  both  the  man  in  charge  and  his  employer  will  know  that 
the  operatives  have  the  required  information  about  their  work. 

In  connection  with  the  rules,  a  notice,  printed  in  large  type, 
should  be  placed  where  it  can  be  readily  seen,  and  should  read 
somewhat  as  follows : 

"  All  employees  are  required  to  read  these  instructions  and 
follow  the  rules  laid  down. 

(Signed) 

The  Rules 

1.  All  winder,  warper  and  quiller  operatives  will  receive  mate- 
rial, ticket  and  lot  number  at  their  machines,  with  instructions 
how  to  treat  the  same.  Tickets  must  be  examined  in  order  to 
avoid  mixing  lots  and  making  other  mistakes.  Tickets  should 
not  be  mutilated  nor  destroyed,  but  always  kept  in  plain  sight. 
Winder  operatives  should  use  only  wooden-pulley  spindles  for 
winding  silk  and  fine  yarns,  and  iron  ones  for  coarse  yarns.  Only 
clean  bobbins  should  be  used  and  they  should  not  be  cut  with  a 
knife  nor  scissors,  as  these  will  damage  the  bobbins.  They  should 
be  cleaned  with  sandpaper,  in  order  to  clean  them  and  keep  them 
smooth.  The  tension  weights  should  always  be  even,  and  they 
should  be  changed  according  to  the  different  sizes  of  the  yarn,  so 
that  the  yarn  is  not  wound  too  hard  nor  too  soft.  Every  bobbin 
should  have  strict  attention,  so  that  all  will  be  even  and  uniform, 
with  no  waste  nor  lapped  ends  on  them.  Winder  operatives,  when 


102  REMINDERS,  DUTIES  AND  RULES 

winding  small  lots  of  yarn,  should  always  find  out  the  number  of 
bobbins  the  lot  is  to  be  wound  upon.  Scissors  should  be  used  to 
cut  off  the  ends,  after  making  good  knots.  After  tying  all  knots, 
the  ends  must  not  be  cut  off  shorter  than  £  inch  and  not  longer  than 
}  inch.  Special  cross  knots  must  be  made  on  all  mercerized  warp 
cotton,  extra  care  being  taken  when  winding  white  to  turn  in  good 
clean  work.  No  waste,  spindles  nor  bobbins  should  be  allowed  to 
lie  on  the  floor. 

2.  All  imperfections  in  materials  should  be  reported   to  the 
foremen  when  winding,  for  example,  dirt,  unevenness,  lumpiness, 
ends,  split  ends,  weak  or  shady  colors.     No  skeins  should  be  cut 
off  nor  destroyed.     All  waste  should  be  saved  and  put  in  the  bags 
kept  in  place  for  that  purpose. 

3.  A  great  deal  of  unnecessary  trouble  and  damage  is  caused 
to  warpers',  doublers',  quillers'  and  weavers'  work,  as  well  as  to 
the  woven  cloth,  by  letting  loose  ends,  threads,  and  waste  run  on 
the  bobbins  and  quills.     This  generally  comes  from  the  careless- 
ness of  the  winder  operatives  in  allowing  waste  and  cut-off  ends 
to  accumulate  on  their  clothing.     Operatives  should  be  careful 
about  this  unnecessary  evil,  and  keep  their  clothing  free  from 
waste.     If  they  do  this,  it  cannot  catch  and  run  in  on  the  bobbins 
and  quills  when  winding. 

4.  All  warper  operatives  should  read  over  the  warp  order  and 
the  warp  ticket  carefully  before  tying  up  the  ends  on  the  creel,  to 
see  that  the  material,  color,  number  and  lot  number  to  be  used  to 
make  the  warp  correspond  with  the  warp  ticket.     When  two  lots  of 
the  same  shade  and  material  are  used  in  a  warp,  both  lots  should 
be  examined,  and,  if  any  unevenness  in  color  is  noticed  in  the 
first  section,  it  should  be  reported. 

5.  No  waste  nor  dirt  should  be  allowed  on  the  creel.     Some 
other  warper  operative  should  always  count  the  number  of  ends 
and  bobbins  before  starting  to  run  them  on  the  reel,  in  order  to 
see  whether  the  ends  are  to  run  in  a  single  or  double  cross-reed. 

6.  Before    starting  a  warp,   Swiss-warper    operatives  should 
always  call  the  foreman's  attention  to  the  elevation  irons  on  the 
reel,  to  see  if  they  are  set  right  for  the  warp  that  is  to  be  made, 
and  observe  if  the  measuring  dial  is  set  right  for  the  length  of  the 
warp,  corresponding  with  the  warp  ticket.     Some  other  warper 


THE  RULES  103 

operative  should  always  see  that  the  cut  marks,  made  with  colored 
string,  painted  and  covered  with  paper,  are  put  on  a  few  ends  of 
the  first  section  or  band  in  exactly  the  right  place. 

7.  All  sections  or  bands,  when  started  on  white  warps,  should  be 
kept  moving  to  avoid  dusty  and  soiled  sections,  and  none  should 
be  allowed  to  stand  unfinished  after  the  power  is  off.     All  warps 
should  be  covered  properly  before  they  are  left  at  noon  and  night. 
All  work  should  be  made  good  and  clean,  with  good  knots  and 
special  cross  knots  on  all  mercerized  cotton.     All  empty  bobbins 
should  be  cleaned,  using  only  sandpaper  to  keep  them  smooth  and 
free  from  waste. 

8.  To  verify  the  width,  the  first  section,  or  band,  should  always 
be  measured  after  reeding,  before  starting  to  run  in  on  the  reel, 
and  from  this  should  be  figured  out  the  required  width  for  the 
warp.     The  width  of  the  warp  should  always  be  measured  when 
finished. 

9.  On  all  partly  finished  warps,  if  some  of  the  ends  have  been 
cut  down,  the  number  of  finished  ends  should  be  marked  on  the 
back  of  the  warp  ticket  before  leaving  at  noon  or  night.     This  is 
absolutely  necessary  in  order  to  avoid  misunderstanding  if  an 
operative  is  absent  from  work. 

10.  The  condition  of  all  warp  materials  should  be  reported  to 
the  foreman.     This  includes  bad  winding,  dirt,  lumps,  split  ends, 
uneven  ends,  weak  or  shady  colors.     No  material  should  be  taken 
from  the  winder  operatives,  nor  should  two  or  more  lots  be  mixed 
in  a  warp,  without  proper  instructions.     The  lot  tickets  should 
always  be  kept  in  plain  sight  and  neither  mutilated  nor  destroyed. 

11.  Doubler  operatives  should  pay  strict  attention  to  their 
work  and  follow  instructions,  seeing  that  all  bobbins  are  running 
evenly  and  uniformly,  and  with  the  necessary  tension  to  make  good, 
clean  work.     They  should  report  all  imperfections  in  work  and 
material.     Empty  bobbins  should  be  cleaned,  using  only  sand- 
paper to  keep  them  smooth  and  free  from  waste. 

12.  Quiller  operatives  should  also  pay  strict  attention  to  their 
work  and  follow  instructions.     Special  care  should  be  taken  when 
starting  up  a  quill  to  get  the  end  in  firmly,  in  order  to  avoid  run- 
ning over  into  'the  groove  of  the  quill.    All  the  tension  weights 
should  be  even,  and  they  should  be  changed  as  required  for  the 


104  REMINDERS,   DUTIES  AND  RULES 

different  sizes  of  material,  so  that  the  quills  will  be  neither  too 
hard  nor  too  soft.  When  white  or  light  colors  are  being  used, 
special  attention  should  be  paid  to  keeping  the  material  clean. 
Scissors  should  be  used  to  cut  off  the  ends  when  knots  are  made. 
The  knot  should  be  run  on  the  outside  of  the  quill,  so  that  the 
end  will  run  off  freely  from  the  shuttle  when  it  is  weaving  in  the 
loom.  When  using  flyers,  the  end  that  runs  off  the  spool  or  bob- 
bin and  passes  through  the  flyer  guide  should  turn  from  right  to 
left,  so  as  to  make  the  required  twist  in  the  yarn  when  it  is  used 
in  weaving.  Empty  bobbins  should  be  cleaned,  using  only  the 
sandpaper,  as  usual.  Quiller  operatives  should  clean  their  ma- 
chines every  day  before  starting  work  at  7  A.M.  and  1  P.M. 

13.  Weavers  should  be  requested  to  notify  the  Quilling  and 
Filling  Department  when  receiving  a  board  of  filling  whether  there 
is  enough  to  finish  the  cut,  and  when  bringing  the  board  to  the 
Quilling  and  Filling  Department,  after  the  piece  is  finished,  should 
wait  until  the  board  is  emptied.     The  board  should  be  returned 
to  the  loom. 

14.  Board-fillers  should  see  that  the  weavers  are  supplied 
with  the  filling  required  by  their  loom  order,  and  should  be  very 
exact  in  giving  out  the  right  material,  so  that  the  lot  numbers, 
colors  and  sizes  correspond  with  the  order  ticket.     The  lot  number 
is  the  surest  guide  to  accuracy  and  must  never  be  overlooked,  as 
the  slightest  error  on  the  board-filler's  part  may  cause  many  yards 
of  fabric  to  be  woven  wrong,  involving  great  loss.   Any  misconduct 
on  the  part  of  the  weavers  should  be  reported,  also  any  imperfect 
work,  or  unevenncss  of  shade.     Instructions  should  be  followed 
as  given.    The  department  should  be  kept  clean  and  in  good 
order.     No  waste  should  be  allowed  to  hang  on  the  fixtures,  and 
quills  and  waste  should  be  kept  off  the  floor. 

15.  All  employees  should  be  in  their  places  promptly  at  7  A.M. 
and  1  P.M.  and  no  time  should  be  wasted  in  singing,  unnecessary 
talking  or  stopping  to  eat  lunch,  until  the  whistle  blows  at  12 
and  6  o'clcok.     Those  who  remain  in  the  mill  during  the  noon 
hour  should  maintain  order  and  stay  in  their  own  departments. 
Hats  and  coats  should  be  kept  in  the  dressing  room.    Anyone 
leaving  the  mill  during  working  hours  should  have  a  pass  to  be 
furnished  by  the  foreman.     Anyone  who  is  absent  from  work 


THE  RULES  105 

through  illness,  or  any  other  cause,  should  notify  the  foreman  at 
once,  or  run  the  risk  of  losing  his  or  her  position.  No  one  can 
receive  pay  for  unfinished  piece  work.  When  an  employee  is 
unable  to  receive  his  pay  personally,  and  requests  another  to  re- 
ceive it  for  him,  he  should  give  his  representative  a  written  order, 
signed  by  himself.  All  injuries  caused  by  accidents  at  work 
should  be  reported  at  once.  Employees  leaving  their  work  or 
position  without  giving  three  days'  notice  will  risk  the  forfeiture 
of  their  pay. 

16.  The  power  will  stop  every  Saturday  one-quarter  of  an  hour 
before  the  whistle  blows  at  12  o'clock,  to  allow  for  cleaning  the 
machinery.     In  order  to  avoid -accidents,  no  machinery  may  be 
cleaned  while  running.     Employees  will  not  receive  their  pay  until 
their  places  and  machinery  are  thoroughly  cleaned,  and  have  been 
inspected  and  passed  by  the  foreman.    All  machinery  should  be 
oiled  every  Monday  and  Thursday  morning. 

17.  All  employees  should  give  strict  attention  to  their  work, 
follow  instructions,  and  obey  the  above  rules.     Those  making 
mistakes  or  injuring  the  work  through  carelessness  and  neglect 
will  be  subject  to  a  fine." 


CHAPTER  VII 
DEFECTS  AND  THEIR  CAUSES 

Defective  Fabrics 

VOLUMES  could  be  written  upon  the  subject  of  imperfect  fabrics, 
and  the  defects  that  arise  from  the  different  processes  before  and 
during  weaving.  In  touching  upon  this  subject,  the  intention  is 
to  advise  rather  than  to  criticise,  the  object  being  to  impress  upon 
the  reader's  mind  the  fact  that  none  of  the  processes  are  immune 
from  defects  caused  by  poor  workmanship.  There  is  also  much 
that  can  be  said  and  done  about  yarns  before  they  are  subjected 
to  the  processes  of  winding,  warping  and  quilling.  Good  weaving 
depends  greatly  upon  the  workmanship  of  every  previous  process. 
From  the  beginning  of  the  material  going  into  the  yarn,  through 
the  extensive  operations  before  it  reaches  the  loom,  every  process 
has  its  bearing  on  the  quality  of  the  woven  fabric. 

It  is  the  aim  of  every  mill  owner  to  produce  perfect  fabrics,  as 
far  as  possible,  but  this  cannot  always  be  done.  One  of  the  great- 
est problems  of  the  textile  industry  is  the  prevention  and  over- 
coming of  defects.  It  is  admitted  by  all  in  the  field  that  no  one 
person  possesses  sufficient  information  and  experience  to  recognize 
and  solve  each  and  every  problem  that  arises  in  manufacturing. 
The  number  of  ways  in  which  yarns  and  warps  may  be  injured  by 
mechanical  action  during  the  different  stages  of  manufacture,  are 
so  great  that  it  would  be  impossible  for  any  one  person  to  describe 
all  the  causes  of  imperfections  in  all  kinds  of  fabrics.  There  are 
often  defects  in  the  various  processes  that  the  yarn  passes  through 
that  cannot  be  discovered  without  thorough  tests,  chemical  and 
physical,  and  the  use  of  the  microscope.  Yet  many  of  these 
defects  can  be  readily  seen  when  woven  into  some  of  the  fine, 
plain  fabrics. 

106 


DEFECTIVE  FABRICS  107 

It  is  impossible  to  make  a  good  fabric  from  a  poor  grade  of 
yarn,  although  a  good  deal  of  it  is  used,  and  for  some  classes  of 
goods  it  does  very  well.  All  mills  produce  some  imperfect  fabrics 
and  a  large  part  is  due  to  mistakes  in  the  selection  of  material, 
faulty  yarn  structure,  inefficient  machinery,  poor  workmanship, 
carelessness  on  the  part  of  the  working  staff,  and  last,  but  not 
least,  to  theoretical  instead  of  practical  managers. 

What  is  lacking  many  times  is  good  judgment,  and  the  quality 
of  mind  that  enables  one  to  face  difficulties  and  overcome  them  in 
the  best  possible  way.  Even  with  experience  in  detecting  defects 
in  fabrics  at  every  stage  in  their  production,  there  are  sometimes 
apparently  insurmountable  difficulties.  Defects  arise  from  causes 
so  nearly  alike  that  no  expert  could  tell  the  cause  unless  he  knew 
in  advance  where  the  trouble  lay.  A  defect  is,  therefore,  many 
times  traced  to  one  thing,  when  it  is,  in  reality,  due  to  something 
quite  different. 

Another  point  to  be  noted  is  that  it  is  frequently  easy  to  locate 
the  cause  of  a  defect,  but  difficult  to  prevent  it  or  guard  against 
its  recurrence.  Anyone  engaged  in  the  weaving  process  (or  any- 
other,  for  that  matter)  should  study  his  work.  Although  many 
operatives  in  this  department  have  some  idea  of  the  principles  and 
details  of  the  work,  weavers,  loom-fixers  and  others,  in  general, 
seem  to  consider  that  the  loom  does  the  work  and  that  their  duty 
is  only  to  watch  it  run.  But  much  more  is  required  if  good  work 
is  to  be  produced,  passed  by  the  examiner,  and  delivered  to  the 
owner  in  such  a  condition  that  he  can  expect  the  full  price  for  his 
goods,  and  not  fear  having  to  sell  at  a  loss. 

It  may  be  assumed  that  the  weavers  are  women,  though  they 
are  no  worse  than  the  men  in  the  matter  of  carelessness.  In  either 
case,  there  are  many  details  for  weavers  and  loom-fixers  to  con- 
sider. It  is  the  duty  of  the  weaver  to  study  every  little  point  and 
have  every  apparently  trifling  matter  corrected  before  proceeding 
with  the  work.  In  one  way  or  another,  the  ends  from  the  warp 
may  break  down  and  go  wrong,  and,  consequently,  the  warp  is 
frequently  condemned  when  there  is  nothing  the  matter  with  it. 
The  fault  may  be  in  the  setting  of  the  loom,  or  due  to  some  other 
cause.  The  weaver  goes  on  tying  the  ends  up,  thereby  necessarily 
marring  the  warp,  blaming  it  for  all  the  trouble,  and  weaving  a 


108  DEFECTS  AND  THEIR  CAUSES 

defective  piece  of  goods  that  she  herself  would  not  buy  from  a  bar- 
gain counter  at  a  sale.  At  the  same  time,  a  warp  from  the  same 
yarn,  and  same  warper,  weaving  the  same  pattern,  may  be  going 
all  right  on  another  loom.  Observance  of  the  foregoing  sugges- 
tions will  facilitate  the  remedying  of  such  evils. 

An  intelligent  weaver,  if  properly  directed  by  the  loom-fixer, 
will  soon  notice  these  details  and  save  trouble  for  both.  Few 
loom-fixers  realize  their  responsibility.  It  should  be  the  loom- 
fixer's  duty  to  see  that  every  weaver  not  only  knows  her  work, 
but  attends  to  it  properly  and  reports  to  him  the  slightest  trouble 
in  the  working  of  the  loom.  He  can  then  correct  it  immediately. 

Every  new  style  of  goods  coming  to  the  loom  should  be  care- 
fully considered,  that  the  loom-fixer  may  know  exactly  how  to  set 
the  loom  so  it  will  weave  to  the  best  advantage,  and  to  discover, 
also,  if  it  should  start  up  badly,  what  the  probable  cause  is. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  numerous  evils  and  damages, 
though  by  no  means  all,  that  the  manufacturer  and  operatives 
have  to  watch  for  and  contend  with,  found  in  the  different  processes 
of  manufacturing  fabrics: 

Raw  Silk  and  Silk-Throwing  Defects 

Uneven  size,  irregular,  hard,  soft  or  corkscrew  twist,  broken 
fibers,  nibs,  knots,  double  ends,  waste  or  improper  tension,  will 
cause  fine  and  coarse  streaks  in  both  warp  and  filling. 

Other  Yarn  Spinning  Defects 

Uneven  size,  a  hard,  soft  or  uneven  twist,  kinked  or  looped 
threads,  slubs,  lumps,  specks,  cotton-seed  hulls,  or  hairy  yarn 
will  cause  imperfect  cloth. 

Dyeing  Defects 

Unevenness  of  snade,  dirty  or  oily  spots,  hairy  yarn,  over- 
weighting, imperfect  chemical  treatment,  rough  handling,  arti- 
ficial lustring,  will  all  cause  defects  and  damages  due  to  faulty 
dyeing  operations. 


SKEIN  AND  QUILL-WINDING  DEFECTS  109 

Skein  and  Quill-winding  Defects 

Very  hard-  and  soft-wound  threads  in  the  warp  will  show 
streaks  lengthwise. 

Threads  will  carry  dust,  lint,  and  flying  fibers  that  accumulate 
around  the  machinery,  into  the  yarn,  and  also  into  light-colored 
woven  fabrics,  causing  defects. 

Soiled  and  perspiring  hands  tying  knots  make  dirty  spots  and 
streaks  that  cannot  be  removed  by  any  known  method. 

Cracked  and  worn  guides  scrape,  damage,  fray  and  roughen 
the  threads,  causing  streaks. 

Dyed  yarns,  too  long  exposed  to  the  light,  will  cause  uneven 
and  shady  streaks. 

New  and  old  dye  lots  of  yarn  in  the  skein,  or  wound  bobbins, 
carelessly  handled  and  mixed,  will  cause  very  bad  streaks  in  warp 
or  weft. 

Too  hard  quilling  will  crack  and  split  fine  yarn  and  produce 
hairy  fabrics. 

Too  soft  quilling  will  cause  the  filling  to  snarl  and  break,  will 
make  uneven  places,  and  cause  floats,  waste  and  smashes. 

Bobbins  or  quills,  containing  light-colored  yarn,  if  not  kept 
clean,  will  collect  dust,  oil  spots,  water  spots,  etc.,  that  will  make 
marks  in  the  cloth. 

Cotton,  wool,  silk  or  other  yarns,  wound  in  close  proximity  to 
each  other,  will  often  absorb  lint  and  other  flying  particles,  and 
show  specks  in  the  goods. 

Warping  Defects 

Worn,  damaged,  rusty  or  soiled  reeds  will  cut,  scratch  and  fray 
the  yarn  and  make  dirty  streaks  and  marks. 

The  improper  mixing  of  new  and  old  lots  will  make  streaky 
warps. 

Inaccuracy  in  spacing  sections  will  cause  warp  streaks  from 
opened  and  lapped  sections,  commonly  called  section  marks. 

Slack  beaming  will  cause  rough  appearing  fabrics. 

Bobbins  wound  too  hard  by  one  winder  and  too  soft  by  another, 
and  not  properly  mixed  on  the  creel,  are  very  apt  to  show  in  some 
fabrics. 


110  DEFECTS  AND  THEIR  CAUSES 

Dust  settling  on  unfinished  sections  will  show  dirty  stripes  on 
light  colors. 
I       Threads  tied  too  tightly  or  too  loosely  will  show  streaks. 

Too  many  smashes  tied  in  a  small  space  will  show  a  rough  place 
from  so  many  knots. 

Soiled  beaming  paper  will  spot  the  warp. 

Loom  and  Weaving  Defects 

The  twisting  and  sticking  of  yarns  at  the  cross  rods  will  cause 
light  streaks  and  floats.  0 

Extreme  cold  and  damp  in  the  weaving  room  will  effect  various 
parts  of  the  loom  machinery  and  harness,  and  it  is  out  of  the 
question  to  work  in  such  an  atmosphere,  and  weave  perfect  fabrics. 

A  damaged  reed  with  rough,  rusty,  bent  and  worn  blades  will 
cause  streaky,  dirty  and  imperfect  fabrics. 

Too  much,  or  improper,  oiling  of  machinery  will  cause  dirty 
oil  spots  and  streaks. 

Dirt,  fiber  and  lint  from  the  harness,  or  Jacquard  machine, 
will  cause  dirty  spots  and  streaks. 

Stopping  over  night  is  apt  to  make  reed  and  harness  marks 
in  white  and  light  fabrics,  owing  to  dust  settling,  and  the  strain 
of  the  shed  left  open  in  the  harness. 

Any  end  wrongly  drawn  in  the  harness  or  crossed  in  the  reed 
will  cause  streaks. 

Many  ends  broken,  from  various  causes  (commonly  called 
smashes),  and  pieced  out  with  many  knots  will  cause  bad  places. 

Cut  heddle  eyes  in  the  harness  will  fray  and  split  the  warp  ends 
and  make  fine  streaks. 

The  loom  working  irregularly  or  out  of  time  will  produce  im- 
perfect fabric. 

The  filling-stop  motion  being  out  of  order  will  cause  streaky 
marks  from  broken  picks  of  filling. 

If  the  take-up  motion  does  not  work  right,  it  will  produce  thick 
and  thin  places,  broken  or  miss-picks  in  the  weft  will  make  empty 
streaks  crosswise,  and  two  picks  in  a  shed  will  make  a  heavy  streak 
across  the  fabric. 

Uneven  doubling  in  filling  yarns,  uneven  shuttle  tension,  or 
too  tight  selvages  will  produce  cockled  effects. 


MISCELLANEOUS  DEFECTS  111 

Dirty  shuttles  will  mark  the  fabric  crosswise. 

Skipped  and  crossed  ends  in  the  harness  will  cause  thin  streaks 
in  the  fabric  lengthwise. 

Trifling  mistakes  in  designing  and  card-cutting,  and  in  the 
harness,  cause  imperfections,  and  are  sometimes  not  discovered 
till  many  yards  are  woven. 

Too  tight,  too  loose,  or  uneven,  tension  weights,  on  weaves 
that  require  two  or  more  beams  for  the  warp,  will  produce  an 
uneven  and  rough  appearing  fabric. 

Joining  marks  are  caused  by  an  improper  setting  of  the  take-up 
motion  after  picking  out  bad  spots. 

Moistening  the  ringers,  or  using  rosin  or  glue  to  stick  rough 
ends  together,  will  cause  dirty  places  in  most  goods. 

Wax,  or  other  preparations,  used  to  dress  or  size  skein-dyed 
warps,  will  ruin  many  fabrics. 

Miscellaneous  Defects 

The  use  of  the  wrong  quality  or  size  of  yarn  in  constructing 
fancies  will  produce  defects,  such  as  thick  and  thin  places,  cock- 
ling, grinning  colors,  loose  and  long  floats,  specks,  streaks,  etc. 

Poor  designing  and  combining  of  weaves  makes  faulty  cloth. 

Placing  a  warp  on  the  wrong  kind  of  loom  will  often  develop 
very  mysterious  defects. 

Lack  of  knowledge  in  arranging  the  proper  counts,  harness 
drafts,  box  chains,  picks,  etc.,  will  result  in  an  imperfect  fabric, 
provided  it  can  be  woven  at  all. 

Uneven,  too  slow,  or  too  fast,  speed  in  the  power  will  result  in 
defective  work. 

A  loom  will  weave  imperfectly  if  it  does  not  stand  firm  and  solid. 

Poor  light  allows  many  defects  to  occur  that  might  otherwise 
be  detected  and  prevented. 

Old  or  defective  machinery  is  responsible  for  many  imperfec- 
tions that  would  never  occur  otherwise. 

Efficient  Mill  Administration 

In  concluding  this  manual,  the  author  wishes  to  say  that  a  mill 
that  is  correctly  organized  should  be  able  to  account  for  every 


112  DEFECTS  AND  THEIR  CAUSES 

pound  of  stock  in  the  mill,  cloth,  waste,  etc.  A  mill  failing  in  this 
has  not  reached  the  highest  point  as  an  organization.  To  attain 
these  conditions  all  heads  of  departments  should  be  methodical, 
systematic  men  who  do  nothing  by  guesswork,  but  who  know  and 
appreciate  the  value  of  details.  Men  of  this  class  will  see  that  the 
facilities  provided  are  as  complete  as  possible,  so  that  the  max- 
imum production  may  be  obtained  by  the  best  help. 

In  preparing  this  work,  the  constant  endeavor  has  been  to  see 
the  matter  from  the  reader's  standpoint,  and  to  endeavor  to  antici- 
pate everything  that  might  cause  him  trouble. 

It  is  a  recognized  rule  that  the  help  that  gives  the  largest  pro- 
duction should  invariably  give  the  best.  Encouraging  this  class 
of  help  will  prove  an  incentive  to  the  less  efficient.  On  this  basis, 
both  quantity  and  quality  of  production  are  more  easily  obtained. 

•One  feature  in  the  development  of  scientific  methods  is  the  estab- 
lishment of  technical  libraries  by  textile  mills,  free  access  to  the 
books  being  accorded  the  operatives.  The  latest  and  best  works, 
on  all  subjects  of  interest  and  value  to  the  mill,  are  placed  before 
the  operatives.  Printed  information  regarding  their  work,  coupled 
with  explanations  and  diagrams,  is  welcomed  by  the  workers, 
as  the  best  way  to  make  explanations  clear  is  to  give  pictures  or 
diagrams  in  connection  with  them. 

Thus,  when  new  problems  are  brought  up  for  solution,  the  oper- 
atives have  the  advantage  of  being  able  to  read  up  on  the  subject, 
and  combine  the  knowledge  thus  obtained  with  their  practical 
experience  in  the  mill.  When  the  heavy  losses  that  frequently 
result  from  ignorance  of  some  technical  details  of  textile  work  are 
considered,  it  becomes  evident  that  no  textile  mill  can  afford  to 
neglect  placing  before  its  employees  the  best  and  latest  books  on 
textile  manufacturing. 


GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS  USED  IN  THE  PROCESSES 
OF  WARPING,  WINDING,  QUILLING,  ETC. 

The  writer,  believing  that  it  mil  be  fo/  interest  and  assistance  to  the 
reader,  has  carefully  compiled  the  following  list  of  the  various  terms  most 
often  used  in  connection  with  these  processes. 

Anchor  Bobbin.  A  large  bobbin  having  flanged  heads,  which  are 
grooved  to  hold  tension  cords.  Used  to  wind  the  edge  or  selvage  upon. 

Artificial  Silk.  A  very  lustrous,  manufactured,  textile  fiber  made 
from  gummy  solutions  of  cellulose  expressed  through  capillaries  into  fine 
filaments  which  are  subsequently  solidified  and  combined. 

Back  Reed.  A  reed  placed  in  a  loom  behind  the  regular  reed  and 
made  of  a  frame  carrying  movable  wires,  or  threads,  which  helps  to  sepa- 
rate the  warp  threads  and  to  keep  back  lint,  etc.  (Also  known  as  false 
reed.) 

Ball  Warps.  Warps  which,  after  being  wound  on  the  warping  mill, 
are  bunched  together  in  rope  shape  and  wound  up  in  a  ball,  or  similar 
form.  Cotton  warps  are  frequently  handled  in  this  way. 

Band.  The  group,  or  series,  of  threads  running  from  the  creel, 
through  the  cross-reed  and  space-reed,  and  wound  upon  the  reel.  (See 
Section.) 

Banking-up.  Arranging,  in  their  proper  places,  the  bobbins  on  a 
warp  creel.  (See  Tying-up.) 

Beam.  A  cylindrical  wooden  roll,  having  an  iron  pin,  or  gudgeon,  in 
each  end.  Used  to  wind  the  finished  warp  upon.  Usually,  on  each  end 
of  a  warp  beam,  is  an  iron  head  for  tension  ropes  to  ride  upon,  though 
many  beams  simply  have  grooved  places  cut  in  the  wood.  (See  Flange- 
head  Beam.) 

Beam  Apron.  A  coarse,  strong  cloth,  one  end  of  which  is  attached 
to  the  beam,  the  other  end  hemmed,  and  slit  at  intervals,  and  an  iron  rod 
passed  through,  to  which  the  warp  is  tied  for  beaming. 

B earner.    The  operator  of  a  beaming  machine. 

Beaming.  The  operation  of  unwinding  a  finished  warp  off  from  the 
reel  onto  a  beam. 

Beaming  Machine.  Strongly  made,  heavy,  iron,  power-driven 
machine,  used  for  beaming  warps. 

113 


114  GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 

Beaming  Paper.  A  strong,  heavy  paper  used  in  beaming  to  protect 
and  hold  in  place,  the  warp  on  the  beam.  Sheets  of  it  are  wound  on  with 
the  warp  as  the  beaming  proceeds. 

Beam  Rack.  A  strong  frame  of  iron,  or  wood,  in  which  to  keep  empty 
beams  and  beams  containing  finished  warps. 

Beam  Truck.  A  small,  low,  heavy,  two-wheeled  truck,  V-shaped  at 
top,  on  which  warps  ready  for  weaving  are  wheeled  to  the  looms. 

Bearing.     A  support  for  shafts,  spindles,  swifts,  etc. 

Belt  Shifter.  A  fork-shaped  iron,  attached  to  a  machine,  to  move  the 
driving  belt  from  one  pulley  to  another,  to  start  or  stop  a  machine. 

Board-filler.  An  employee,  generally  an  experienced  quiller,  who  fills 
the  quill  boards  for  weavers. 

Bobbin.  A  cylindrical  piece  of  wood,  with  a  head  on  each  end,  bored 
through  to  receive  an  iron  pin.  Used  to  wind  thread  upon.  Fiber  head, 
and  iron  head,  bobbins  are  largely  used.  (See  Spool.) 

Bobbin  Pins.  Rows  of  iron  pins  on  the  warping  creel,  and  on 
doublers  and  other  machines,  to  hold  the  bobbins  while  running. 

Bobbin  Stops  for  Winding  Frame.  Small,  adjustable  iron  brackets, 
attached  to  a  winding  machine,  directly  under  the  spindles  which  sustain 
the  bobbins.  Used  to  automatically  stop  the  bobbins  when  full. 

BoMed-off  Silk.     Undyed  thrown-silk  with  the  gum  boiled  out. 

Boiling-off.  The  removal  of  the  natural  gum  from  silk  goods  or  yarns 
by  boiling  in  soap  and  water.  (Same  as  Degumming.) 

Bone  Pick.  A  tapered,  smooth  bone,  about  3  to  5  inches  long,  used 
to  separate  sections  and  find  lost  ends  while  warping.  (See  Pick-bone.) 

Book.  Bales  of  Asiatic  silks  are  made  up  of  smaller  parcels  called 
books. 

Box.  Receptacle  in  a  loom  into  which  the  shuttle  enters  when  it 
crosses. 

Box  Loom.    A  loom  with  more  than  one  box  on  one  or  both  sides. 

Brake  Strap.  A  rope  or  strap,  arranged  with  tension  weight,  to  con- 
trol and  steady  the  reel  while  warping  on  the  horizontal  warping  machine. 

Bright  Silk.  A  name  applied  to  thrown  silk  completely  boiled-off 
and  dyed. 

Bundle.  Several  rolls  of  yarn,  each  containing  a  number  of  skeins, 
tied  together. 

Carriage.  The  movable,  sliding,  frame  or  device  on  a  warping  ma- 
chine, which  carries  the  reeds  and  section  rollers. 

Carriage  Table.  The  board  which  forms  the  bottom  of  the  car- 
riage. 

Carriage  Wire  Hooks.  Hooked,  bent  wires,  attached  to  the  car- 
riage, for  supporting  threads  while  adjusting  broken  or  lost  threads. 


GLOSSARY  OF  TERM'S  115 

Catch-cord.  A  strong  cord  used  on  the  edges  of  the  cloth  while 
weaving,  to  prevent  the  filling  from  pulling  in  or  cutting  the  edges. 

Caterpillar.  A  thread,  part  of  which  breaks  and  curls  around  the 
unbroken  part  in  the  shape  of  a  caterpillar,  caused  by  a  weak  spot  in  the 
thread  catching  in  a  guider  eye  or  reed. 

Chain  Warp.  A  warp  which  is  unwound  from  the  warping  mill  in 
rope  form  and  then  looped  into  chain  form  for  convenience  in  shipping. 
Cotton  warps  are  frequently  handled  in  this  way. 

Chiffon  Twist.  Hard-twisted,  single,  raw-silk  threads,  having  from 
about  50  to  100  turns  of  twist  per  inch,  more  or  less,  used  for  making 
chiffons,  mousseline  de  soie,  etc. 

Chop.    The  mark  used  on  an  Asiatic  silk  to  identify  its  quality. 

Cleaning  a  Warp.    See  Picking. 

Clean  Warp.  A  warp  well  made  and  picked  free  of  yarn  imperfec- 
tions. 

Cocoon.  The  covering  that  the  silk  worm  spins  around  itself,  which, 
when  unwound,  becomes  raw  silk. 

Color  Number.  Number  used  to  distinguish  a  color.  Each  shade 
should  have  a  name  and  number. 

Comber  Boards.  Short  and  narrow  perforated  sections  or  pieces  of 
hard  board,  or  one  long  one,  extending  from  one  side  of  a  Jacquard  loom 
to  the  other.  The  object  of  the  comber  board  is  to  spread  and  guide  the 
harness  threads,  which  pass  through  the  holes  in  the  board. 

Compass.    An  instrument  used  to  space  off  the  sections  for  a  warp. 

Conditioning.  The  determination  of  the  weight  of  silk,  or  other 
material,  on  the  basis  of  its  normal  condition,  i.e.,  absolutely  dry  weight, 
plus  11  per  cent,  for  silk,  and  other  percentages  for  other  materials,  rep- 
resenting their  ordinary  content  of  moisture.  Also  colloquially  used  to 
cover  tests  for  boil-off,  size,  etc. 

Cone  Pulleys.  Two  pulleys,  cone  shaped,  arranged  so  that  the 
larger  end  of  one  is  opposite  the  smaller  end  of  the  other.  The  belt  is 
adjusted  with  the  aid  of  a  belt-shifter.  Used  to  vary  the  speed  of  a 
machine. 

Cop.  A  tapered  paper  tube,  used  in  place  of  a  quill,  and  the  yarn 
on  it.  Some  cops  are  of  solid  yarn  without  any  tube. 

Cop  Shuttle.  A  shuttle  with  a  largely  recessed  interior,  and  without 
spindle,  for  holding  a  cop  built  up  solidly  of  yarn,  used  for  weaving  extra 
thick  yarns. 

Corkscrew-twist.  Faulty  twist  in  yarn,  giving  a  corkscrew  appear- 
ance, due  to  uneven  tension  in  the  threads  twisted  together,  or  marked 
unevenness  in  their  size. 

Cotton.    The  fiber  produced  by  the  cotton  plant,  the  filaments  grow- 


116  GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 

ing  out  from  the  seeds,  enclosed  in  the  pods.  After  picking,  the  fibers 
are  torn  away  from  the  seeds  by  the  ginning  process,  the  fiber  being  then 
known  as  lint  cotton. 

Cotton  (Uplands).  A  staple  variety  of  American  cotton  grown  on 
the  uplands  of  the  seaboard  states  of  the  Atlantic  Coast.  The  grade 
known  as  Middling  Uplands  is  the  standard  for  cotton  quotations. 

Cotton  (Egyptian).  Long,  fine,  silky,  cotton  grown  in  Egypt. 
Largely  used  in  spinning  counts  between  l/80s.  and  I/ 120s. 

Cotton  (Gulf  or  New  Orleans).  Fine,  long  stapled,  cotton,  grown  in 
the  Mississippi  Valley. 

Cotton  (Peeler).  A  superior  grade  of  Mississippi  Valley  cotton, 
named  after  a  former  cotton  planter. 

Cotton  (Peruvian).  Very  rough  feeling  woolly  cotton,  produced  in 
Peru,  which  grows  upon  trees.  Largely  used  for  mixing  with  wool. 
(Also  called  tree  cotton.) 

Cotton  (Sea  Island).  Very  long-stapled  extra  fine,  superior,  cotton 
grown  on  the  islands  along  the  sea-coasts  of  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  and 
Florida.  The  South  Carolina  Sea  Island  cotton  is  much  the  better  and 
has  no  superior. 

Cotton  (Carded).  Cotton  prepared  for  spinning  by  the  carding 
process. 

Cotton  (Combed).  Cotton  which  has  been  first  carded,  and  then 
combed,  being  straighter  and  cleaner  than  if  only  carded. 

Cotton  Yarn  Count.  This  is  based  on  the  number  of  840-yard 
skeins  to  the  pound.  No.  1  =840  yards  per  pound.  No.  2  =  1680  yards, 
etc.,  2/40s  =  l/20s;  and  so  on,  for  other  counts. 

Count  of  Yarn.  The  number  of  a  yarn  indicating  its  size,  from 
which  its  length  per  pound  can  be  ascertained. 

Creel.  A  frame  of  iron,  or  part  iron  and  part  wood,  containing  rows 
of  iron  pins.  A  glass  bar  reed  extends  across  the  top.  Used  to  hold 
the  bobbins  for  warping. 

Crepe  de  Chine  Twist.  Hard-twisted  tram,  in  both  right  and  left- 
hand  twist,  usually  from  40  to  70  turns  per  inch,  and  generally  made 
from  three  to  five  raw-silk  ends,  used  for  the  filling  of  Crepe  de  Chine. 

Crepe  Georgette  Twist.  Generally  made  of  two  threads  of  13/15 
denier  raw  silk,  with  50  to  90  turns  per  inch,  right  and  left-hand  twist, 
used  for  both  warp  and  filling  of  crepe  georgette. 

Crepe  Twist.  Hard-twisted  tram,  30  to  100  turns  of  twist  per  inch, 
more  or  less,  used  for  the  making  of  crepey  fabrics. 

Cross.    See  Lease. 

Cross  Bars.  Round  steel  bars,  used  to  make  and  keep  the  cross  while 
running  on  a  Swiss  warping  machine. 


GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS  117 

Cross  Cord.  Strong,  smooth  cord  used  to  keep  the  cross  in  a  warp. 
(See  Cross.)  (See  Lease  Cord.) 

Crossed  End.    An  end  that  is  not  in  its  allotted  place  in  the  cross. 
Crossing  Sticks.    Very  smooth,  hard  wood  rods,  passed  between  the 
ends  of  all  weaving  warps  for  maintaining  the  cross.     (See  Lease.) 

Cross  Reed.  A  reed  used  to  form  the  cross.  One  dent  is  partially 
closed  in  two  places,  about  one-third  the  distance  from  each  end  of  the 
dent.  The  next  dent  is  open.  These  open  and  closed  dents  alternate 
singly,  or  in  two,  three,  four,  or  irregular,  manner  according  to  the  require- 
ments. 

One     open,  one    closed  =  single-cross; 

Two    open,  two    closed  =  double-cross; 

Three  open,  three  closed  =  triple-cross; 

Four    open,  four    closed  =  quadruple-cross; 

One     open,  two    closed  =  1  single-and-double 

Two    open,  one    closed  =  J      cross,  etc.     (See  Lease.) 

Cross  Reeled.  Skeins  wound  with  a  quick  to-and-fro  movement  of 
the  guide  eye,  which  lays  the  threads  across  each  other  at  a  sharp  angle 
thus  facilitating  the  winding.  (See  Grant  Reel.) 

Cross  Rods.  Hard-wood  rods,  used  to  make  the  cross  on  the  hori- 
ozntal  warping  machine. 

Cut.  The  length  at  which  a  piece  of  woven  cloth  is  cut  off.  Most 
usual  length  of  broad-silk  cuts,  60  yards,  ribbons,  10  yards. 

Cut  Down  (or  Cutting  Down).  Term  used  when  the  number  of 
bobbins  is  gradually  decreased  while  warping. 

Cut  Marks.  Marks  either  painted  or  tied  onto  a  section  of  a  warp  at 
designated  intervals,  for  the  use  of  the  weaver,  who  cuts  off  the  woven 
pieces  at  these  marks. 

Degumming.    See  Boiling-off. 

Denier.  A  weight  equal  to  1/20  gramme;  used  in  determining  the 
size,  or  count,  of  raw  silk.  The  number  of  deniers  which  it  takes  to  bal- 
ance the  weight  of  a  reeling  of  the  silk  450  meters  long,  is  the  denier,  or 
size,  of  that  silk.  Dividing  4,464,528  by  any  denierage  gives  its  yardage 
per  pound.  Dividing  it  by  the  yardage  per  pound  gives  the  denierage. 

Dent.  The  space  between  two  wires  of  a  reed.  Properly,  the  wire 
itself.  The  number  to  the  inch  indicates  the  count  of  the  reed. 

Dial.  An  indicator  on  warping  machines  for  measuring  the  length  of 
the  warp. 

Direct  Warping  Machine.  A  machine  used  for  making  ribbon  warps 
direct  from  the  creel,  through  the  cross-reed  and  space-reed,  onto  the 
beam. 


118  GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 

Disk  Pulley.  A  leather-covered  shifting  pulley,  driving  against  the 
face  of  a  disk  for  securing  variable  speeds. 

Disposition.  The  written  order  for  the  working  plan  or  arrangement 
of  the  threads  in  a  warp. 

Double-and-twist.  Threads  of  different  color  or  character  doubled 
together  and  then  twisted. 

Doubling.    See  Doubling  Machine. 

Doubling  Machine.  Machine  used  to  wind  two  or  more  ends  from 
two  or  more  bobbins  onto  one  bobbin,  to  make  a  doubled  or  heavier  end. 

Doup.  A  half  heddle  which  twists  one  of  the  pah*  of  warp  ends  round 
the  other  in  grenadine-  or  leno-weaving. 

Doup  Bobbin.  A  small  bobbin  with  grooved  head  for  tension 
weights  used  to  wind  binder  threads  on. 

Dram.  A  weight  equal  to  ^  of  an  ounce,  Av.,  used  in  determining 
the  size,  or  count  of  thrown  silk,  based  on  the  weight  in  drams  of  1000 
yards.  A  1-dram  silk  has  256,000  yards  per  pound,  2  dram  silk  =  128,000 
yards  per  pound,  and  so  on.  Dividing  256,000  by  any  dramage  gives  its 
yardage  per  pound.  Dividing  it  by  the  yardage  per  pound  gives  the 
dramage. 

Drawing-in.  The  drawing  of  the  warp  ends,  individually,  through  the 
eyes  in  the  heddles  of  the  harness.  (Also  known  as  Entering.) 

Drawing-in  Frame.  A  framework  support  for  the  warp  and  its 
set  of  harness,  used  while  the  warp  ends  are  being  drawn  through  the 
harness. 

Draw-side.  A  machine  used  for  winding  from  one  bobbin  to  another. 
Doubling  and  winding  machines  can  be  used  for  this  purpose.  Also 
known  as  a  Transferring  Frame. 

Dyeing.  The  coloring  of  silk  (or  other  material)  including  the  boiling- 
off,  weighting,  coloring,  and  other  processes. 

Dye  Lot  Ticket.  A  tag,  or  ticket,  containing  a  record  of  the  details 
concerning  the  dyeing  of  a  lot  of  yarn. 

Dyer.    One  who  dyes  or  colors  yarn,  or  other  material. 

Dynamited  Silk.  A  current  expression  for  silk  weighted  with  tin 
salts,  owing  to  the  destructive  effects  sometimes  experienced. 

Ecru  Silk.  Thrown  silk  from  which  very  little  (say  3  per  cent,  more 
or  less)  of  the  gum  has  been  discharged,  leaving  it  harsh  and  lusterless. 

Edge  Machine.  A  machine  for  the  purpose  of  making  edges  directly 
onto  the  anchor  bobbins. 

Edges.  A  number  of  threads  specially  arranged,  generally  double  or 
triple,  to  be  placed  on  both  sides  of  the  warp,  to  strengthen  and  protect 
the  edges  of  the  woven  cloth.  Sometimes  made  on  the  beam  with 
the  warp  and  sometimes  wound  on  separate  bobbins. 


GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS  119 

Elevation  Irons.  The  adjustable,  flat,  iron  bars  attached  lengthwise 
to  each  slat  on  the  reel  of  a  Swiss  warping  machine.  Used  to  keep  the 
warp  level.  Also  known  as  grade-bars. 

End.  A  term  applied  to  any  thread  used  in  textile  work,  more  par- 
ticularly applied  to  a  warp  thread. 

End-and-End.  Alternating  threads  in  a  warp  of  different  colors  or 
kinds. 

Endy  Skeins.  Skeins  in  which  a  number  of  threads  have  been 
broken  so  that  there  are  loose  projecting  ends  here  and  there,  thus  increas- 
ing the  difficulty  of  winding. 

Entering.    See  Drawing-in. 

English  Harness.  A  harness,  the  heddles  of  which  are  made  of 
threads  with  mails,  or  metal  eyes,  in  the  center,  or  with  eyes  made  in  the 
threads  themselves.  Frequently  stiffened  by  oil-coating  and  baking,  then 
being  known  as  baked  harness. 

English  Quill.  A  quill  bored  entirely  through,  such  as  is  used  on  an 
English  Quiller. 

English  Quiller.  A  quilling  machine  in  which  the  quills  are  held  in  a 
vertical  position  with  their  points  downward,  and  supported  by  revolving 
cones,  between  which  the  spindle  passes. 

Expanding  Swift.  A  wooden  winder  swift  with  a  bevel  gear  hub, 
meshing  in  with  bevel  gears  at  the  foot  of  each  arm.  According  to  the 
way  the  hub  is  turned,  the  arms  will  work  out,  or  in,  thus  changing  the 
outer  circumference. 

Eye  Shade.  A  flexible  shield  used  to  protect  the  eyes  from  strong, 
glaring  light. 

Faller  Wires.  Light  wires  connected  with  the  stop-motions  on 
doubling  machines,  reels,  etc.,  through  the  eyes  of  which  the  moving 
threads  pass,  and  which  support  the  wires  in  position.  When  a  thread 
breaks,  the  wire  supported  by  it  falls,  and  in  so  doing  actuates  the  stop- 
motion  mechanism  and  stops  the  spindle. 

False  Reed.    See  Back  Reed. 

Fancy  Stripes.  Any  warp  made  in  a  stripe  effect,  either  with  various 
colors  or  one  color,  specially  spaced  or  arranged.  (See  Stripe  Warp.) 

Filling.    The  threads  running  crosswise  in  cloth.    Same  as  Weft. 

Fine  End.  A  silk  thread  that  is  too  thin  in  places,  caused  by  faulty 
raw-silk  reeling. 

Flake  Yarn.  A  fancy  yarn,  usually  with  a  cotton  foundation, 
showing  flakes,  or  slugs,  of  untwisted  fibers  at  intervals. 

Flange-head  Beam.  A  beam  having  an  adjustable  disk,  or  flange,  on 
each  side,  for  beaming  warps  without  the  use  of  paper. 

Flat.    An  imperfection  in  the  cross,  where  an  end  is  either  left  out,  or 


120  GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 

the  cross  improperly  taken,  with  an  uneven  number  of  ends,  bringing 
two  ends  in  the  same  cross,  instead  of  one  up  and  one  down. 

Float.  An  imperfection  in  the  cloth,  where  the  filling  crosses — or 
floats — over  warp  ends  which  it  should  pass  under. 

Floss  Silk.  A  soft  silk  yarn,  practically  without  twist,  used  for 
embroidering.  Also  waste  silk  thrown  off  by  the  worm  before  beginning 
its  cocoon. 

Flyer.  A  small  iron  weight,  fitted  with  a  wire  swivel-guide  and  short 
pin,  to  place  on  an  upright  bobbin  of  doubled  threads,  to  twist  and  guide 
the  thread  while  winding  onto  the  quill.  Also  a  bent- wire  guide  used  on  a 
spinning  spindle. 

French  Harness.  A  harness  made  with  top  and  bottom  wooden  slats, 
and  looped  threads  between,  two  pairs  of  looped  threads  acting  as  one 
heddle.  As  it  wears,  the  position  of  the  threads  can  be  changed,  thus 
affording  an  unworn  surface  for  contact  with  the  warp.  This  "  turning  " 
can  be  done  several  times,  thus  lengthening  its  life.  It  is  an  excellent 
harness  for  dyed  silk  warps. 

French  Quill.  A  quill  which  is  only  bored  through  a  portion  of  its 
length,  the  point  being  solid. 

French  Quiller.  A  machine  for  quill  winding,  the  spindles  being 
arranged  in  a  horizontal  position,  and  on  which  French  quills  are 
used. 

Friction-drive  Pulley.  A  loose  pulley  which  is  operated  by  a 
clutch,  running  against  the  driving  pulley.  Used  for  starting  or  stopping 
a  machine. 

Glass  Reed.  A  reed  made  of  glass,  with  a  wooden  frame,  mounted 
on  top  of  the  warp  bobbin  creel. 

Glass-reed  Bars.  Long,  heavy  round-glass  rods,  fixed  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  glass  reeds. 

Glass-reed  Dents.  Small,  rod-shaped,  pieces  of  glass,  used  to  form 
the  reed  on  top  of  the  creel. 

Grant  Reel.  A  reel  arranged  with  a  guide  traversing  quickly  back 
and  forth,  thus  forming  a  skein  with  the  threads  crossing  each  other  at 
sharp  angles,  greatly  facilitating  winding.  Named  after  its  inventor, 
and  now  universally  used.  (See  Cross  Reeled.) 

Grenadine.  An  open-mesh  silk  dress  fabric,  in  which  the  warp  ends 
twist  round  the  filling  picks,  thus  preventing  slippage. 

Grenadine  Twist.  Hard  twisted  organzine  suitable  for  the  warp  of 
Grenadines,  which  must  stand  severe  friction.  Usual  twists  run  between 
the  limits  of  20/18  and  60/60  turns  per  inch. 

Grooved  Pulley.  A  narrow-faced,  grooved,  pulley  driven  by  a 
twisted  belt,  or  a  round  belt. 


GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS  121 

Guard  String.  A  cord  tied  from  the  carriage  to  the  creel  on  each  side 
of  the  section  to  protect  the  ends  when  warping. 

Guiders.  Small,  porcelain,  glass,  or  enamel  guides,  of  various  shapes, 
used  on  all  winding,  quilling  and  doubling  machines,  to  guide  the  threads 
on  the  bobbins  or  quills. 

Guider  Rail.  A  thin,  wooden,  rail,  the  length  of  the  winding  machine,, 
riding  upon  small  rollers,  carrying  the  guiders,  and  traversing  back  and 
forth  to  spread  the  threads  onto  the  bobbins. 

Gum  Silk.    Thrown  silk  from  which  the  gum  has  not  been  boiled-off . 

Hairy  Yarn.  A  thread  that  appears  to  be  covered  with  hair.  Can- 
ton silks  are  usually  hairy. 

Hard  Silk.    Silk  from  which  the  natural  gum  has  not  been  removed. 

Hard  Twist.    See  Crepe  de  Chine  Twist,  Crepe  Twist,  etc. 

Harness.  A  mechanism  of  the  loom  for  causing  the  warp  threads  to 
open  in  a  prearranged  manner.  Consists  of  a  series  of  light  wooden 
frames  surrounding  the  warp,  equipped  with  thread,  or  wire,  heddles,  run- 
ning vertically  from  bottom  to  top  within  the  frames,  and  with  an  eye 
in  the  center  of  each  heddle.  There  are  as  many  frames  as  are  required 
by  the  weave,  and  a  heddle  for  each  warp  thread.  The  alternate  rising 
and  falling  of  the  harnesses  in  the  orderly  separation-  of  the  warp  threads, 
with  the  filling  picks  passing  between  them,  creates  the  weave  of  a  cloth. 
Jacquard  harnesses  are  differently  arranged. 

Harness  Building  Machine.  An  automatic  machine  for  building 
thread  harnesses,  French  or  English.  Can  build  them  plain  or  spaced. 

Harness  Loom.    See  description  under  Harness.    Same  as  Shaft  Loom, 

Harness-skips.  A  row  of  floating  warp  threads  across  a  piece  of 
cloth,  where  the  warp  ends  have  not  been  caught  and  bound  down,  as 
they  should,  by  the  filling  pick. 

Head  Ends.    Same  as  Headings. 

Headings.  The  beginning  and  ending  of  a  piece  of  cloth,  generally 
woven  with  some  remnant  material  for  filling. 

Heavy  Warp.  A  warp  containing  a  great  number  of  ends;  a  very  long 
warp;  a  warp  of  very  coarse  yarn. 

Heddle.    See  description  under  Harness. 

Horizontal  Direct  Warping  Machine.  One  upon  which  the  sections 
are  wound  straight. 

Horizontal  Swiss-motion  Warping  Machine.  One  that  winds  the 
sections  with  a  traverse  motion. 

Jack-roll.  A  cylindrical  wooden  beam,  having  flat,  large  heads,  with 
an  iron  pin  in  each  end.  Used  to  wind  the  doup  warp  upon  for  grenadine. 

Jacquard  Machine.  A  machine,  named  after  its  inventor,  for  raising 
and  lowering  the  harness  threads  in  a  loom,  each  thread  having  its  indi- 


122  GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 

l> 

vidual  heddle.    By  its  use,  figured  patterns  of  large  size  can  be  made, 
as  against  the  very  small  patterns  which  the  harness  loom  can  make. 

Kinked  Yarn.    A  thread  which  kinks  or  snarls. 

Kneeboard.  A  narrow  board  across  the  full  length  of  a  winding 
machine,  in  front,  to  protect  the  swifts. 

Lace  Cord.  A  smooth,  heavy,  braided  cotton  cord  in  which  the  fibers 
of  the  silk  cannot  catch,  used  for  lease  cords,  tying  skeins  in  bundles,  etc. 

Laces.  The  tie  bands  or  separations  in  skeins  made  from  suitably 
twisted  cotton  yarns. 

Lapped  Sections.  Part  of  one  section  lapped  over  another,  caused 
by  inaccurate  spacing  while  warping. 

Lathe,  or  Lay.  The  strong,  wooden  beam,  across  the  front  of  a  loom, 
containing  the  reed,  shuttle  boxes  and  shuttle  race.  It  moves  forward 
to  allow  the  reed  to  beat  the  filling  into  place  while  weaving,  then  back. 

Lease.  The  passing  between  the  threads  of  a  warp,  of  cords,  or  sticks, 
above  and  below  which  the  threads  cross  alternately.  Also  known  as  the 
Cross. 

Lease  Cord.    See  Cross  Cord. 

Light  Warp.  A  warp  consisting  of  a  small  number  of  ends;  a  short 
warp;  a  warp  made  o.f  fine  yarn. 

Lingo.  A  thin  wire  having  an  eye  at  one  end;  used  as  a  weight  on  the 
end  of  each  Jacquard  harness  thread. 

Lint.  The  fine,  dustlike,  fibrous  particles  which  come  from  yarn. 
They  fly  around  in  the  air  and,  if  colored,  may  cause  imperfections  in 
white  work. 

Long  End.  An  end  which  is  found  to  be  one  or  more  rounds  of  the 
reel  longer  than  the  rest  of  the  warp  when  beamed.  Due  to  imperfect 
warping  or  beaming. 

Long  Section.  A  section  which  is  one  or  more  rounds  of  the  reel 
longer  than  the  rest  of  the  warp  when  beamed.  Due  to  an  error  on  the 
part  of  the  operative. 

Loom      A  machine  for  weaving  cloth. 

Loom  Mounting.  Disposing  a  drawn-in  warp,  with  its  harness  and 
reed,  in  a  loom,  preparatory  to  weaving. 

Lot.     Term  used  for  a  quantity  of  yarn. 

Lot  Ticket.  A  tag  or  card  containing  the  necessary  details  concern- 
ing a  lot  of  yarn. 

Lousy  Silk.  Silk  which  exhibits  many  small  light-colored  specks  on 
its  surface,  principally  due  to  the  splitting  and  curling  up  of  fine  fibers. 

Lumps.    Any  waste,  slugs,  or  other  heavy  yarn  imperfections. 

Mail.  A  small  metal  eye,  used  in  the  heddle  of  a  Jacquard  or  other 
harness  thread,  to  pass  the  warp  thread  through. 


GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS  123 

Mercerized  Cotton.  Cotton  yarn  (or  fabric)  which,  after  being 
treated  with  cold  caustic  soda  solution  while  under  tension,  and  then 
washed,  acquires  a  silky  appearance  in  the  process.  Called  after  Mercer, 
who  introduced  the  method. 

Meter.  A  linear  measure  =  39.37  +inches,  upon  which  the  Metric 
System  is  based.  Generally,  but  inaccurately,  figured  as  10  per  cent 
more  than  one  yard  in  textile  calculating. 

Metric  Count.  A  No.  1  yarn  weighs  1  gramme  for  1  meter  =  1  Kg. 
for  a  thousand  meters.  No.  100  weighs  1  Kg.  for  100,000  meters,  etc. 
(See  Meter.) 

Mispick.  A  pick,  or  part  of  a  pick,  left  out  of  the  cloth,  due  to 
breakage,  or  quill  becoming  empty. 

Mixed  Fabric.  A  fabric  constructed  of  materials  of  different  kinds, 
as  silk  and  cotton. 

Neck  Cord.  A  short  and  strong  cord,  looped  at  the  ends,  connecting 
the  hooks  on  a  Jacquard  machine  with  the  harness  threads. 

Ombre.    Shaded;  graduated  in  shade,  or  color. 

Ombre  Warp.  A  warp  containing  a  series  of  shades  of  a  color  or 
colors,  shaded  from  light  to  dark,  or  vice  versa. 

One  Beam  Warp.  A  warp,  the  whole  of  which  is  contained  on  one 
beam. 

Operative.     One  who  operates,  or  runs  a  machine. 

Organzine.  Silk  specially  twisted  for  use  as  warp.  Two  (or  more) 
raw-silk  threads,  which  have  been  well  twisted  in  the  single,  are  doubled 
and  then  twisted  the  reverse  way;  16  turns  in  the  first  time  twisting,  and 
14  turns  reverse  twist,  is  the  most  usual  arrangement. 

Paraffine.    A  species  of  wax  used  to  facilitate  the  working  of  yarns. 

Parting  Stick.  A  wooden  rod  used  for  parting,  pulling  and  dressing 
skeins  on,  for  improving  their  winding  qualities. 

Pattern.  A  design,  or  arrangement  of  figures,  stripes,  checks,  etc.,  for 
fabrics. 

Pattern  Warp.    Same  as  Sample  Blanket. 

Picks.     See  Filling. 

Pick-bone.    See  Bone  Pick. 

Picking.  Removing  odd  threads,  lumps  or  similar  blemishes  from 
warps  and  woven  fabrics.  The  movement  of  a  loom  as  it  drives  the 
shuttle  across.  In  the  spinning  of  cotton,  wool,  etc.,  a  preliminary  open- 
ing up  given  to  the  stock  in  preparation  for  carding. 

Picking  Tongs.  An  implement  used  in  picking  the  imperfections 
from  silk  fabrics,  having  a  needle  point  at  one  end,  and  a  pair  of  clip- 
ping jaws  at  the  other. 

Piece.    A  length  of  goods.     Standard  lengths  of  broad  silks  for  the 


124  GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 

various  trades  and  fabrics  are  40,  60,  75  and  100  yards,  60  being  the  most 
common.  Ribbons  come  in  10-yard  pieces. 

Piecing  Bobbin.  A  partially-filled  bobbin  of  yarn,  the  same  as  used 
in  the  warp,  used  for  piecing  or  tying  broken  ends  in  warping  or  weaving. 

Pigtails.  Metal,  or  porcelain  guide  eyes,  with  the  ends  curling  round 
once  or  twice  in  a  circle. 

Pin  Axle.    Small  iron  pin  fitted  on  each  side  of  a  winding  swift  hub. 

Pin  Cops.  Cops  of  yarn,  almost  solid,  with  a  short  paper  tube  at  the 
base  as  a  guide  to  the  spindle,  which  is  forced  through  the  rest  of  the  cop. 
Also  applied  generally  to  small-sized  cops. 

Pipe  Creel.  A  creel  made  of  iron  piping.  The  pin  rails  are  adjustable 
and  made  of  iron  bars  attached  to  the  pipe  frame  with  sockets  and  set 
screws. 

Plain  Warp.    One  made  with  one  kind  and  color  of  yarn. 

Pure  Dye.    Silk  colored,  but  not  weighted. 

Quill.  A  tapered  wooden  cylinder,  bored  lengthwise  through  the 
center  to  fit  onto  spindles  while  winding  the  yarn  from  bobbins.  Used 
in  the  shuttle  at  the  loom,  to  supply  the  filling. 

Quill-board.  A  board  containing  rows  of  pins  on  which  quills  are 
placed  to  carry  them  to  the  loom. 

Quilling.    The  operation  of  winding  onto  quills.     (See  Spooling.) 

Quilling  Machine.  A  machine  used  for  winding  yarn  from  bobbins 
onto  quills,  cops  or  tubes.  See  English  Quiller  and  French  Quiller. 

Raw  Silk.  Silk  in  thread  form,  as  it  has  been  unwound  from  the 
cocoons,  the  thread  being  composed  of  several  cocoon  filaments. 

Raw  Silk  Count.    See  Denier. 

Re-drawing.  (Also  called  Back-winding  or  Transferring.)  The 
unwinding  of  wound  threads  from  one  bobbin  and  re-winding  them 
onto  another.  Useful  in  regularizing  the  tension. 

Reed.  A  series  of  flat  metal  blades,  or  thin  wires,  arranged  like  the 
teeth  of  a  comb,  and  held  in  place  at  both  top  and  bottom.  Used  to  keep 
the  ends  separate  and  in  their  proper  places  while  warping  and  weaving. 
The  main  function  of  a  loom  reed  is  to  beat  up  the  filling  picks  into  the 
cloth. 

Reed-frame.    A  wooden  frame  for  holding  a  reed. 

Reed-holder.  A  wire,  hook  shaped  at  each  end,  used  to  support  the 
reed  on  the  creel  while  reeding. 

Reed-hook.  A  thin  metal-blade,  hook  shaped  at  one  end,  the  other 
inserted  in  a  handle.  Used  to  pull  the  ends  through  the  reed. 

Reeding.  The  operation  of  putting  the  warp  ends  through  the  reed 
in  their  designated  order.  Also  called  "  sticking  the  reed."  Also  called 
"  Sieving." 


GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS  125 

Reeding  Knives.  Small,  thin,  flat  strips  of  metal,  hard-wood,  or 
bone — usually  the  latter — about  3^  inches  long  by  f  inch  wide,  notched 
near  the  ends,  used  in  drawing  the  warp  threads  through  the  dents  of  the 
reed,  the  process  being  called  "  reeding  "  or  "  sticking  the  reed."  Two 
are  used  at  a  time,  being  passed  through  each  dent  alternately,  the  one  in 
the  dent  acting  as  a  guide  for  the  other  when  it  is  put  through  the  following 
dent.  Coarser  or  finer  "  knives  "  will  be  used  according  to  the  spacings 
of  the  reed. 

Reed  Ombre.  A  shaded,  or  ombre*  effect,  produced  in  cloth,  warp 
ways,  by  the  irregular  spacing  of  the  warp  through  the  reed,  putting  more 
threads  in  some  dents,  and  fewer  in  others. 

Reel.  A  cylindrical  frame  upon  which  warps  are  wound.  There  is 
also  a  reel  used  for  winding  skeins. 

Reeler.    The  operative  who  runs  a  yarn  reel. 

Reeling.  The  operation  of  unwinding  the  silk  from  cocoons  to  form 
raw  silk.  The  winding  of  yarn  from  bobbins  into  skein  form. 

Remnants.     Small  quantities  of  yarn,  woven  cloth,  etc.,  left  over. 

Rings  (in  raw  silk).  Places  where  the  thread  in  raw-silk  reeling  has 
escaped  from  the  traverse  guide,  and  has  revolved  for  some  distance  in  a 
ring  instead  of  in  its  usual  crossed  form.  Increases  the  difficulty  and  the 
waste  in  winding. 

Ringer.  An  end  which  breaks  while  warping  or  beaming  and  remains 
on  the  reel  after  the  warp  is  beamed  off. 

Roll  (of  yarn).     A  number  of  skeins  made  up  into  a  roll. 

Sample  Blanket.  A  short  length  of  goods  made  for  samples,  having 
sections  of  different  colors  in  the  warp,  and  shot  with  a  variety  of 
different  fillings.  (Same  as  Pattern  Warp.) 

Schappe.  Spun-silk  yarn,  more  particularly,  when  m'ade  from  stock 
which  has  been  degummed  by  the  schapping,  or  maceration  process.  (See 
Spun  Silk.) 

Scroop.  A  creaking  or  crunching  sound  which  silk  makes  when 
squeezed  or  twisted.  It  can  be  artificially  produced  by  special  treat- 
ments. 

Section.    See  Band. 

Section  Hooks.  Small  wire  hooks,  used  for  short  warps,  to  hook  the 
end  of  the  finished  sections  upon. 

Section  Marks.  Streaks  in  cloth  which  are  caused  by  faulty  spacing, 
or  uneven  tension,  of  the  sections  in  warping. 

Section  Pins.  A  row  of  small  pins  inserted  into  one  of  the  slats  on 
the  reel  of  a  warping  machine  upon  which  the  sections  are  hooked  when 
starting. 

Selvage.     See  Edges. 


126  GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 

Shaft  Loom.    Same  as  Harness  Loom. 

Shed.  A  term  applied  to  the  space  created  when  part  of  the  ends  in 
a  warp  are  lifted  and  the  remainder  left  in  place.  When  weaving,  every 
pick,  or  shot,  of  the  shuttle  goes  through  the  shed  thus  made  by  the 
pattern  mechanism. 

Short  End.  An  end  broken,  or  lost,  while  warping,  and  which,  when 
found  and  repaired,  is  one  or  more  rounds  of  the  reel  too  short. 

Short  Section.  A  section  which,  through  an  error  of  the  warper,  is 
found  to  be  one  or  more  rounds  of  the  reel  shorter  than  the  rest,  when  the 
warp  is  beamed. 

Shuttle.  A  wooden,  steel-tipped,  carrier  for  the  filling,  used  on  the 
loom  to  shoot  the  rilling  into  the  cloth. 

Silk.  A  fine,  lustrous,  thread,  produced  from  the  cocoon  of  a  silk 
worm. 

Silk  Reeling.    See  Reeling. 

Silk  Waste.  Wastage  is  made  in  all  operations  of  manipulating 
silk.  The  wastes  made  in  the  silk-reeling  and  silk-throwing  processes, 
including  the  pierced  cocoons,  are  the  materials  from  which  spun  silk  is 
made.  (See  Waste.) 

Single-and-double  Warps.  Warps  made  with  a  variation  of  threads, 
giving  two  ends  for  the  face  to  one  on  the  back,  or  vice  versa. 

Singles.  Name  applied  to  thrown  silk  where  single  threads  only  have 
been  twisted,  as  used  for  Chiffon,  etc.  Also  applied  to  raw-silk  threads 
when  used  as  warp.  (See  Chiffon  Twist.) 

Single  Weaving.  Weaving  of  fabrics  made  with  raw-silk  warps, 
such  as  cotton-back  satins,  etc. 

Size.  The  term  used  to  designate  the  thickness  and  weight  of  a  yarn. 
Same  as  the  Count. 

Sizing.  The  treatment  of  fabrics,  or  of  yarns,  with  a  dressing,  or 
sizing  to  render  them  smooth  and  firm.  Also,  the  weighing  of  sample 
lengths  of  yarns  to  determine  their  count. 

Skein.  A  hank  of  yarn;  the  circumference,  for  silk  being  usually  45 
to  54  niches. 

Skein  Dressing  Pole.  A  strong,  short  pole,  horizontally  attached  to 
a  standard,  or  to  the  wall,  for  spreading,  dressing,  and  parting  the  skeins 
to  clear  them  preparatory  to  winding. 

Skein  Dyeing.  The  degumming,  weighting,  dyeing,  etc.,  of  silk,  or 
other  yarns,  in  the  skein. 

Skinny  Bobbins.  Bobbins  upon  which  only  a  small  amount  of  yarn 
has  been  wound. 

Slat.  One  of  the  horizontal  wooden  slats  on  a  warping  reel.  (See 
Stave.) 


GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS  127 

Sleeper.  An  end  which  breaks  and  stops  at  the  reed,  but  does  not 
curl  or  snarl  and  does  not  run  with  the  other  ends. 

Slubs.    Soft,  irregular,  lumps  found  in  yarn.    Same  as  Slugs. 

Slugs.    Soft,  thick,  lumpy  places  in  a  yarn.    Same  as  Slubs. 

Smash.  A  place  where  a  large  number  of  warp  threads  have  been 
broken,  due  to  the  loom  beating  up  and  catching  the  shuttle  in  the  shed 
before  it  has  passed  through.  Also,  applied  to  similar  breakage  of  warp 
threads  in  warping. 

Soaking.  A  treatment  accorded  to  raw  silk,  as  a  preliminary  to 
throwing,  where  the  silk  is  immersed  for  some  hours  in  a  bath  of  tepid 
water  containing  an  emulsion  of  soap  and  oil,  much  of  which  the  silk 
takes  up  and  retains. 

Soft  End.  In  a  yarn  that  is  twisted,  an  end  that  is  without  twist  in 
places. 

Soft  Silk.  Thrown  silk  yarn  from  which  the  gum  has  been  dis- 
charged, undyed  or  dyed. 

Souple  Silk.  Skein-dyed  silk  from  which  only  about  half  the  gum 
has  been  removed  in  the  boiling-off.  It  is  duller  looking  and  firmer  than 
silk  completely  degummed. 

Spaced  Harness.  A  harness  built  with  alternate  spaces  between  the 
heddles  for  use  in  weaving  striped  warps. 

Space-reed.  A  reed  used  for  spacing  and  guiding  the  section  while 
warping. 

Speed  (of  a  pulley  or  machine).  The,number  of  revolutions  during 
a  given  period  of  time. 

Spindle.  An  iron  or  wooden  pin,  or  small  bar.  Also,  a  pin  having  a 
small  pulley  head  on  one  end,  and  a  spring  affixed  lengthwise,  for  holding 
the  bobbin  while  winding.  Also  a  revolving  tapered  spindle  for  spin- 
ning. 

Spinning.  The  twisting  of  textile  fibers-cotton,  wool,  spun  silk,  etc., 
to  make  them  hold  together  and  form  a  yarn.  Also  applied  to  the  twisting 
of  silk  in  the  throwing  process.  Sometimes  applied  to  the  unwinding  of 
the  raw  silk  from  the  cocoons. 

Split  End.  A  thread  in  which  one  of  the  sub-threads,  composing  itj 
breaks,  making  a  serious  defect. 

Spool.    See  Bobbin. 

Spooling.    See  Quilling. 

Spun-silk  Count.  Same  as  Cotton  Yarn  Count,  except  that  two  (or 
more)  ply  yarns  are  stated  differently.  In  spun  silks,  60/1,  60/2,  60/3, 
60/4,  etc.,  will  each  be  a  yarn  counting  60x840  yards  =50,400  yards  per 
pound,  made  up  of  1,  2,  3,  or  4  threads,  respectively.  On  the  Continent^ 
spun  silk,  or  schappe,  is  numbered  by  the  metric  system. 


128  GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 

Standard.  Term  applied  for  the  warp  thread  around  which  the  doup 
thread  twists  in  grenadines. 

Stave.    See  Slat. 

Step  Cone  Pulley.  A  pulley  consisting  of  a  series  of  steps.  Used 
for  changing  the  speed  of  a  machine. 

Sticky  Ends.  Fine  fibers  on  the  threads,  atmospheric  conditions, 
dyeing  treatment,  or  poor  tension,  sometimes  cause  the  ends  to  cling 
together,  and  they  are  then  termed  sticky. 

Stop  Motion.  A  device  to  automatically  stop  a  machine  or  part  of  a 
machine. 

Straight  Reeled.  Skeins  reeled  without  the  use  of  a  traverse  motion, 
or  with  a  slow-moving  traverse,  as  distinguished  from  cross-reeled,  in 
which  a  quick-moving  traverse  is  used. 

Streaky  Warp.    Streaks  or  defects  lengthwise  of  the  warp. 

Stripe  Warp.    See  Fancy  Stripes. 

Swift.  A  skeleton  frame  reel,  consisting  of  a  hub,  with  a  pin  on  each 
side  for  axles,  and  having  a  double  row  of  tapered  spokes.  Used  for 
holding  and  spreading  the  skein  while  winding. 

Swift  Spokes  (or  sticks).  Thin,  tapered  wooden  sticks,  used  as 
spokes  in  winder  swifts. 

Swiss  Motion.  So  far  as  can  be  ascertained,  this  is  an  old  Swiss 
invention,  used  on  warping  machines,  to  build  up  sections,  gradually 
Inclining,  on  the  elevation-irons  so  that  each  consecutive  round  over- 
laps the  preceding  one,  the  overlapping  part  at  the  beginning  of  the 
warp,  resting  on  the  elevation-irons.  In  this  way,  warps  can  be  made 
of  any  desired  length  without  the  use  of  guides,  or  flanges,  which 
otherwise  would  be  needed  to  prevent  the  ends  at  the  edges  of  each 
section  from  moving  out  of  place,  thereby  making  their  tensions  irreg- 
ular, a  defect  that  is  bound  to  cause  endless  trouble.  Any  number  of 
sections  may  be  made  in  this  way,  with  all  the  threads  level  and  in 
place,  and  held  at  equal  tension,  until  the  necessary  width  of  the  warp 
has  been  attained,  each  section  being  an  exact  repetition  of  the  first. 
When  the  warp,  which  has  thus  been  built  up  in  sections,  is  finished, 
it  is  beamed  off  as  a  whole  in  one  operation,  and  this  applies  to  warps 
made  on  large  reels  as  well  as  those  made  on  small  reels. 

Swiss  Warping  Machine.  One  with  Swiss  motion,  smaller,  and 
differently  constructed  than  a  horizontal  machine. 

Take-off  Machine.  A  small,  portable,  hand-power  machine,  used  to 
wind  edges  onto  bobbins. 

Tension.    Weight  or  tightness. 

Tension  Strap.  A  band  of  iron,  generally  leather-lined,  used  to 
apply  tension  with  weights,  while  beaming  a  waip. 


GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS  129 

Tension  Weights.  Iron  weights  of  various  sizes,  used  to  take 
up  the  slack,  and  keep  tight  the  threads,  while  winding,  warping  or 
weaving. 

Textile  Mill.  A  mill  conducting  any  of  the  processes  incident  to  the 
fabrication  of  textiles. 

Thread  Finishing.  The  sizing,  or  dressing  of  individual  threads  of 
yarn  to  impart  smoothness  and  firmness. 

Throwing.  The  combining  and  twisting  of  raw-silk  threads  in  vari- 
ous ways,  thus  making  it  practicable  to  dye  them  in  the  skein. 

Thrown-silk  Count.    See  Dram. 

Throwster.  One  who  conducts  a  silk-throwing  business.  This 
work  is  largely  done  on  commission. 

Thrum.    The  end  of  a  warp  where  the  threads  are  knotted  together. 

Tram.  Raw-silk  threads  doubled  together  and  twisted,  usually  about 
two  to  five  turns  per  inch,  used  for  filling. 

Traverse.  A  device  used  on  reels,  winders,  quillers,  etc.,  which 
automatically  shifts,  to  and  fro,  the  thread  which  is  being  wound,  and 
so  spreads  it  evenly  from  side  to  side  of  the  skein,  bobbin  or  quill. 

Twisting.  The  uniting  of  the  threads  of  a  new  warp  to  those  of  one 
woven  out,  by  twisting  the  threads  together.  Also  applied  to  the  putting 
in  of  the  second-time  twist  in  throwing.  Also  to  the  twisting  together  of 
two  or  more  single  threads  to  make  a  ply  yarn. 

Twisting-in  Frame.  A  framework  in  which  is  placed  a  warp,  on 
its  beam,  ready  to  be  twisted,  as  well  as  the  old  warp,  and  its  beam,  to 
which  the  new  one  is  to  be  twisted; 

Twisting-in  Machine.  A  machine  which  performs  the  twisting-in 
process  mechanically. 

Twist  Tester.  A  mechanical  contrivance  for  determining  the  amount 
of  twist  in  sample  lengths  of  yarn  which  are  being  tested. 

Two-beam  Work.  Fabrics  which  require  two  warps  mounted  on 
separate  beams,  for  their  production.  Three  beams,  and  even  more,  have 
sometimes  to  be  used. 

Tying-up.    See  Banking  Up. 

Warp.    The  threads  running  lengthwise  in  cloth. 

Warp  Beam.    See  Beam. 

Warping.    The  process  of  making  a  warp. . 

Warping  Machine.  See  Horizontal  Warping  Machine.  See  Swiss 
Warping  Machine. 

Warp  Order  Ticket.  A  printed  form  containing  the  plan  and  ar- 
rangement of  a  warp,  showing  how  it  is  to  be  made. 

Warp  Picking  Frame.  A  frame  upon  which  a  warp  may  be  stretched 
out  for  picking  and  cleaning,  the  warp  unwinding  from  one  side  of  the 


130  GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 

frame,  and  being  rewound  on  a  beam  at  the  other  side.  It  may  be  oper- 
ated by  hand  or  by  power. 

Warp  Print.    A  pattern  printed  on  a  warp  before  it  is  woven. 

Waste.  Cuttings,  pickings,  damaged  yarn,  etc.,  made  during  the 
various  processes  of  textile  manufacture.  (See  Silk  Waste.) 

Weave.  Interlacing  of  the  warp  and  filling  threads  to  form  a  fabric. 
Construction  of  a  cloth. 

Weft.    See  Filling. 

Weighted  Silk.  Silk  which  has  been  increased  in  weight  and  bulk 
by  the  addition  of  adulterants. 

Winding.    The  process  of  transferring  yarn  from  skeins  onto  bobbins. 

Woolen  Yarn.    Yarn  made  from  carded  wool. 

Woolen  Yarn  Count.  The  Philadelphia  count  is  based  on  the  cut  of 
300  yards  to  the  number,  1  cut  being  300  yards  per  pound,  10  cut,  3000 
yards,  etc.  The  New  England  count  is  based  on  the  run  of  1600  yards  to 
the  number,  1  run  being  1600  yards  per  pound,  5  run,  8000  yards  per 
pound,  etc. 

Worm  Screw.  A  long  steel  bar  with  a  screw  thread,  which  controls 
the  traverse  motion  on  a  Swiss-motion  warp  machine. 

Worsted  Yarn.  A  woolen  yarn,  which,  before  spinning,  has  been 
straightened,  leveled,  and  cleaned  by  the  combing  process.  Made  from 
wool  specially  selected  for  the  purpose. 

Worsted  Count.  This  is  based  on  the  number  of  560-yard  skeins 
to  the  pound.  No.  1  is  560  yards  per  pound,  No.  2,  1120  yards.  2/40s 
=  l/20s  =  l  1,200  yards  per  pound. 

Yarn.  Any  kind  of  thread  intended  for  weaving  which  has  been  spun 
and  twisted. 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Artificial  silks 19 

Banking,  tying  up,  and  reeding  a  plain  or  one-colored  warp 26 

Beaming  machines 62 

power  and  speeds  for 72 

Beaming  paper,  quality  and  quantity  of 55 

Beaming  warps 36 

Binders,  selvages,  or  edges 71 

Bobbins  that  spin  off  the  pins 50 

advantages  of  good  supply  of 82 

proper  number  to  wind  for  warp 39 

waste  on 59 

Bobbin  weights,  table  of 96 

Book  systems 97 

Brake  strap 49 

Careless  methods 53 

Careless  warper  operatives 68 

Careless  winder  operatives 17 

Changing  one's  position 98 

Complaints 86 

Creel,  the .- 46 

comparison  of,  with  set  on  full  bobbins  and  one  with  partly  filled 

bobbins 49 

Damaged  warping  reed 67 

Defective  fabrics 106 

Defects,  miscellaneous Ill 

silk-throwing 108 

skein  and  quill-winding 109 

warping 109 

yarn-spinning 108 

Dining,  dressing,  and  emergency  rooms 97 

Direct  warping  machine,  advantages  over  horizontal  Swiss  motion . .  41 

Disposition  warps 38,  45 

Doubling  materials,  process  of -. 80 

131 


132  INDEX 

PAGE 

Dyeing  defects 108 

Edges,  selvages,  or  binders 71 

Elevation  irons,  adjustment  of 25 

Fastening  or  securing  the  end  on  a  wound  bobbin 15 

First  section,  preparing,  to  wind  on  reel 31 

winding  on  reel 33 

Floor  space,  plan  for  machinery 93 

Foreman,  duties  of 100 

Glossary  of  terms. 113 

Guard  string 50 

Guiders 8 

Hazardous  figuring 51 

Help,  dismissing,  temporarily. . 86 

employing 83 

Horizontal  warping,  short  and  long  sections  in 57 

Inventory,  a  few  reminders  for 99 

Knots,  making  and  tying 16 

varieties  of 15 

Lease,  importance  of 67 

Light fffftf. 88 

Loom  and  weaving  defects 110 

Luncheon ., 95 

Machinery,  arranging 91 

floor  space,  plan  for 93 

Materials,  treatment  and  care  of 1 

Measuring  dial,  setting 32 

Memorandum  book 54 

Mill  administration,  efficient Ill 

Mistakes,  avoidable 56 

Mixing  in  the  winding  operation 17 

Oil  spots,  tracing 95 

Ombre"  warps 61 

One-colored  warp,  banking,  tying  up,  and  reeling 26 

Operatives,  inexperienced 60 

tracing  workmanship  of ........ 18 

Order  clerk,  duties  of 56 

Power  and  speed  for  winding  machines 8,  72 

Power-driving  devices * . .  33 

Picking  the  warp 64 

Quill  board  fillers 79 

Quilling 76,  78 


INDEX  133 

PAGE 

Quilling  and  filling  supply  department 78 

machines,  power  and  speeds  for 72 

Reeding  a  plain  or  one-colored  warp,  banking,  tying  up,  and 26 

crofct  reea 27 

wide  space 29 

Repairs 94 

Rules  and  regulations 101 

Selvages,  edges,  or  binders 71 

Silks,  artificial 19 

Silk-throwing  defects 108 

Skein  and  quill-winding  defects 109 

Space  reed,  method  of  reeding 29,  50 

Spindles 8 

Starting  mark  of  first  section,  ascertaining 29 

Stock  ticket 1 

Supplies  needed 95 

Sweeping 96 

Swift  braces 6 

Swiss  motion  attachment,  advantages  of,  used  on  horizontal 43 

Swiss  motion  machines,  making  warps  in 61 

Swiss  warping  machines,  handling 61 

Tension  weights,  iron 7 

Treadle  strain 59 

Tying  up  a  plain  or  one-colored  warp,  banking,  reeding  and 26 

Unfinished  sections 45 

Wages,  to  regulate 89 

Warp,  lost  ends  in 45 

orders,  new 50 

picking 64 

second  section  of 34 

Warping  defects 109 

necessary  tools  for 75 

operations,  valuable  points  in 44 

reeds,  damaged 67 

short  and  long  sections  in  horizontal  warping 57 

systems 21 

with  low  grade  of  silk 63 

Warping  machines 21 

power  and  speeds  for 72 

makeshifts  for  horizontal 73 

Swiss,  handling 61 


134  INDEX 

PAGE 

Warps,  beaming 36 

construction  of,  containing  more  ends  in  pattern  than  pins  on  creel  51 

disposition 45 

fancy  stripes  and  ombre's  on  horizontal  machine  without  Swiss 

motion 38 

increased  length  of  due  to  increased  circumference 52 

making,  on  horizontal  or  all-Swiss  motion  machines 40 

ombre* 61 

sample,  made  on  horizontal  machine 61 

using  old  yarn  in 69 

Waste  of  materials 87 

Waste  on  bobbins 59 

Winder  bobbin  stopper  device 18 

Winder  swifts 5 

Winding  coarse  material 17 

Winding  first  section  on  reel 33 

Winding  in  general 0. 

Winding  machinery 3 

power  and  speed  for 8 

space 4 

Winding  operation,  mixing  in  the 17 

Yard  and  meter  measure 97 

Yarns,  available 46 

white,  treatment  of 67 


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